2 3/4" Cove Molding Miters

MinConst

I am lost on this one. I don't cut molding like this enough to remember. I understand Cove is not Crown and should be easier to cut. I have a sliding compound miter saw. 2 3/4" Cove. Trying to make an outside corner at the ceiling wall joint. Can someone tell me what to set the table, tilt and where to place the molding? Does 22.5 on the table, 45 tilt and lay molding flat on the table sound right? I haven't tried this setting yet but somehow I think it might be it.
Thanks.

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Paul
Minichillo's Construction
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kris jusnes

Hey, Paul.

If I'm understanding correctly (which could be a hit or miss, haha), youre trying to cover an outside corner, on which the other side you will be turning it up as well?

Tom R

Should be 35.3 miter and 30.0 bevel, - - laying it on the flat, - - now I'm taking for granted it's a 45 degree 'spring' angle.

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MinConst

Tom,
Thank you. I see those settings on the Dewalt site now. Is there not a way to nestle the molding against the fence and table and just use the 45 miter? The cheat sheet says to lay the molding upside down. Bottom edge agains the fence. Does this work for the 45/45 spring angle as you call it. I am determined to get an understanding on this. But I think I am 75% there. If I can get it to work I will be a very happy camper.
Thanks again.

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Paul
Minichillo's Construction
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Leo G

You need to put the molding in the mitre saw upside down. So the part of the cove that will be going against the ceiling will be on the bed of the mitre box and the part of the cove that will be going against the wall will be on the fence. Nestle the molding so that it sits nicely on the mitres (of the molding) against the fence and table of the mitre saw. Set your angle for an inside or outside 45º angle and just chop the molding. Sometimes it gets confusing because you are working with the molding in the upside down position. You'll get the hang of it though. Good luck, and have a productive day.

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Tom R

What Leo says is definitely the 'standard' way, - - but you can also even cheat a little (like I do once in a while), - - and just hold it 'away' from the fence and just cut a 45 miter.

In other words, - - hold it on your saw table exactly like it will 'set' on the ceiling, - - with the bottom against the fence (representing your 'wall') and the top 'away' from the fence.

As long as you hold the bottom (back) edge 'square' on the fence, - - and hold tight while you 'slowly' drop the blade in at your 45 miter, - - you'll be able to make a 'damn near perfect' cut.

This is actually the method I use to use years ago when I first started, to 'determine' my saw settings for my compound angle, - - ya know, - - before all the charts and angle-finders and all that good rot!!

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Tom R

I should mention too, - - the main 'trick' to doing it the way I stated above is to make sure your 'holding' hand is also 'registering' the said piece in place, - - in other words, - - get some knuckles between the top of the piece and the fence while holding it so it can't 'deflect' downward and you drop the blade.

It's actually a lot easier than it sounds, - - just keep the 'ol digits' comfortably away from the blade.

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King of Crown

I do it the way Tom use to do it using just a 45 mitre. but while we are on the subject of mitre angles, I had the hardest time running 1/4 round the other day. it was on the ceiling, but force of habit, kept thinking it was on the ground, and somehow, I kept messing it up. Is it scary when 1/4 round kicks my butt, and I could do 6" crown in my sleep?

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MinConst

Well I did the nestle thing and just set the miter at 45 and place the molding upside down It worked! Other than the house not being square and having to adjust accordingly the cuts worked perfectly.
Thanks for the help.
Tom I see what you are saying about holding the molding away from the fence. I tried it and it does work. Kinda hard to hold perfectly but I did.

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Paul
Minichillo's Construction
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I will never leave you hanging!