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#1 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Since I offer wood flooring services, we also often asked to cover the stairs with wood.
My apologies for any misspelling etc.There is a guy here who thinks misspelling disqualifies you being craftsman,but anyway. I will go step by step with photos to show how I do it. Here we have 3 fly of six step stairs;one is covered with carpet, two are covered with engineered flooring.Looks like they are done by previous HO or some butcher;with shoe mold on sides. I am gonna do these stairs look like they were wooden from the beginning and look like build-in wood staircase. Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:26 PM. |
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#2 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
The moron who did cover these steps did have no idea! He filled the space under the nosings(riser cavity))with ply and used some sticky glue for boards. I needed to remove pine treads and cut to size since it is easier to cut once it is removed, and install again.I flipped them over in order not to clean that sticky glue. Glue messed up all my table saw and blade. No pics, sorry.
First I remove the carpet,pad,tacks and the flooring and clean all. Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:28 PM. |
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#3 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Then I cut the nosing that sticks out from steps which are made of 12"x2" pine. I use circular saw to cut. You may need reciprocating saw to cut the ends, but in this case, I use flat screwdriver to break off the pine.
Last edited by astor; 09-02-2010 at 01:09 PM. |
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#4 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Now I got all the steps look like box step,it is time to measure and install solid treads and risers.
Treads are made of 1" thick 10 3/4" wide oak,available in hardwood floor distributors in 36"-42"-48"-60" and even longer lengths.Other species available. Risers are made of 3/4" thick 8" wide oak. I had cut the rounded nosing part of the treads 15 degree towards bottom and use router to ease top edge. It gives more custom look and in this case it fits the overlook of the surrounding trims. I also matched the stair nosing to this profile. I sanded,stained and applied two coats of water base Bona sealer and 2 coats of Bona finish before taking to site. I have used router to create a cavity for risers to fit at the bottom of the treads.You can also use dado blades.3/8" deep and 3/4" wide. Last edited by astor; 09-02-2010 at 03:03 PM. |
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#5 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
I use Stair Wizard to copy the size of the treads and risers.Starting from the bottom step,first fit the Stair Wizard to get the exact measurement of the first riser.One of the best tools I have invested.Available in Amazon.
Since there is a piece of railing board on my way, I use a piece of 3/4" wood piece parallel to one end. Don't forget to place it when you mark the riser. Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:30 PM. |
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#6 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Now it is time to cut first tread.Place Stair Wizard and be sure it is tight and snugly.Taking exact template of the tread with whatever angles of the stringers.
Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:32 PM. |
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#7 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Stair Wizard has a feature to allocate a space for sticking nosing.
Use compound miter saw to cut the treads, you may need to play to catch perfect angle.I cut 3 degrees towards bottom in order to fit tight and easy.Dry fit to see.If it fits tight but loose enough to take out,just leave it there. Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:32 PM. |
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#8 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Now for the second riser, repeat same to take the measurement and cut. If you cut a little bigger, better than being short of course,it may push the stringer towards the wall and it will result a gap in your first tread.So it is very important to get the exact size.In the picture riser is a bit longer, notice it causes a gap.Pull out and cut it again and be sure it is not longer than the tread before.
Obviously you may need to rip the riser just 3/8" high for the next tread to fit in the cavity. Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:35 PM. |
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#9 |
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Sam
Trade: Wood Cork and Leather Flooring and more
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 826
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Re: How I Install (refacing) Solid Wood Stairs
Repeat all for each step and number them with blue tape.Remove all,starting from the bottom to up,use urethane glue-either hardwood adhesive or PL400, apply specially for ends where it might squeak, and use finishing nails on spots where the next riser hide and 3 nails to the riser below.
Install nosing on top where travertine floor tiles or whatever.Fill nail holes with matching color wood filler. After the pics taken I also touched up the stringer with matching stain to look better than before. Also applied another coat of Bona Traffic on treads,risers and stringers to finish. Collect your check. In this case it was around $2700 for 12 ea 36" treads and risers,6 ea 42" treads and risers,10 LF nosing, couple of T-molds where the tile installer missed.Cost of materials were around $600.Labor intensive;3-day total 30 man hour including shop time.Charges depends where you are located.Here, in Texas is a cheap country .
Last edited by astor; 09-03-2010 at 02:41 PM. |
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