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Old 08-19-2009, 02:49 PM   #1
Don't Eat Yellow Snow!
 
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Some times the small jobs are good!!

I have just finished these small porches on the large slater i've been doing and its a long time since i've cut close mitred slate hips but soooo enjoyable when you see the results!
Cheers
Dave
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some-times-small-jobs-good-lymm-porch.jpg   some-times-small-jobs-good-lymm-porch-1.jpg   some-times-small-jobs-good-lymm-porch-2.jpg  

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Old 08-19-2009, 03:39 PM   #2
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what is the durability of those roofs? LOVE the look, great job btw
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:22 PM   #3
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what is the durability of those roofs? LOVE the look, great job btw
Well the slates will usually out last the timber they sit on and the nails holding them on!
These are top quality Spainish slates and come with a 70yr guarentee.
Ive used old slates that have been on the roof for over 100yrs before and will probably last another 100, those were thick welsh slates mind.
The only down side to using foreign slates is there not used to the weather extreams we have over here.
Cheers
Dave
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:53 PM   #4
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Great looking job Dave. Do you take any kind of special precautions when handling the lead flashing and what ga./oz. lead do you use?

Andy.
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:53 PM   #5
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so beautiful as usual Dave
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:55 PM   #6
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It looks nice, but do you install a lead flashing under the hip cuts for water?

Where does the water run at the cut intersections?

Also, why the extra wide pieces of slate that abutt the hips? They stand out to me since all of the other field slates are installed at a 1/2 width offset.

Final thing and I don't know if this was in you job scope, but where the heck is the downspout or leader pipe running out of that plastic/vinyl gutter system? I did not notice one running from the gutter trough to the ground.

By the way, I am NOT being picky about your work, but just wanted to get some explanations for things I am not familiar totally with.

Ed
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScipioAfricanus View Post
Great looking job Dave. Do you take any kind of special precautions when handling the lead flashing and what ga./oz. lead do you use?

Andy.

Hi Andy, i always wear gloves when handling the lead, wash hands etc, the lead is code 4 lead(the lead on the wall that you can see) and code 3 lead for the soakers, which is the lad under the sate that you cant see.
Code 4 lead is like 4lb lead but i cant remember the size /weight ratio.
Cheers
Dave
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
It looks nice, but do you install a lead flashing under the hip cuts for water?

Where does the water run at the cut intersections?

Also, why the extra wide pieces of slate that abutt the hips? They stand out to me since all of the other field slates are installed at a 1/2 width offset.

Final thing and I don't know if this was in you job scope, but where the heck is the downspout or leader pipe running out of that plastic/vinyl gutter system? I did not notice one running from the gutter trough to the ground.

By the way, I am NOT being picky about your work, but just wanted to get some explanations for things I am not familiar totally with.

Ed
Hi Ed, yes your right there are lead soakers under the hip join to keep it water tight, you cant see them but there there, simlar to the wall flashings, you only see the lead flashing and not the soaker underneath, which is bent 3" up the wall and 6" on to the slate, on the hip the lead is 9" wide 14" long running up the slate the bottom cornes of the lead are cut so you dont see them sticking out the bottom of the hip, the water will just run down to the gutter.
The slate and a half slates are used other wise you will be left with a small cut with no where to fix it, you normally have to cut the slate and a half plus another slate in to keep he bond line straight, i pesonally prefer this look to say a cement bedded clay hip, i think it looks neater.
Finally go to the top of the class! well spotted with the lack of down pipe!
I didnt do the guttering on this job, but the plumber had not yet fitted it!
Thanks for the questions.
Cheers
Dave
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:13 PM   #9
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Do you fold a hemmed side edge on the lead soakers to prevent the water that gets in the gap at the hip intersection from traversing onto the felt paper or decking substrate?

Or, is the amount of water intrusion at that gap so minimal that there is no need to worry about it.

Do you install a caulking sealant in the hip joint prior to butting them together?

Also, what brands of Caulk are popular in the UK?

Our best brands are Tremco, Vulkem, NP-1, and to a lesser degree OSI Quad and Solar Seal.

Ed
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Old 08-24-2009, 12:08 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
Do you fold a hemmed side edge on the lead soakers to prevent the water that gets in the gap at the hip intersection from traversing onto the felt paper or decking substrate?

Or, is the amount of water intrusion at that gap so minimal that there is no need to worry about it.

Do you install a caulking sealant in the hip joint prior to butting them together?

Also, what brands of Caulk are popular in the UK?

Our best brands are Tremco, Vulkem, NP-1, and to a lesser degree OSI Quad and Solar Seal.

Ed

Hi Ed, no theres no hemmed edge on the lead it is just dress over the slate, the lead is 9" wide so its halfed so you have 4 1/2" over each side of the hip but you cant see the lead because the next slate above it covers it.
Theres no caulking or silicone used on the gap because it would be more likely to trap water than to soak it away, the water doesnt reach the under felt paper it soaks on to the slate and away.
We does use silicone where the lead goes in to the brick work, its call 'Lead Mate' a grey flexable silicone.
Cheers
Dave
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:35 PM   #11
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Its wierd ive not done mitred slate hips for a while and ive done another one today!!!
I took a few photos to show the process, hope it helps.
Cheers
Dave
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some-times-small-jobs-good-mitre-cut-1.jpg   some-times-small-jobs-good-mitre-cut-2.jpg   some-times-small-jobs-good-mite-cut-3.jpg  
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:53 PM   #12
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Do my eyes deceive me or is that a cinder block inside wall in the picture??
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:54 AM   #13
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Do my eyes deceive me or is that a cinder block inside wall in the picture??
Can i ask whats a cinder block?
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:43 PM   #14
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Can i ask whats a cinder block?
Cheers
Dave
The gray/grey cement/concrete block on the inside walls of the entranceway in your 2nd photo.

Frigging Foreigners!!!

Speak English for Crying Out Loud, LOL.

(Just Kidding)

Ed

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Old 08-26-2009, 04:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
The gray/grey cement block on the inside walls of the entranceway in your 2nd photo.

Frigging Foreigners!!!

Speak English for Crying Out Loud, LOL.

(Just Kidding)

Ed

Lol a shared language but sooo far apart!
I still dont see any block lol, on the 2nd photo to the right theres a aliuminun soaker that i saved from a velux window flashing, the other grey material against the wall is tyvec beathable underfelt.
the rest is slate and timber batten.
Cheers
Dave
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Old 08-26-2009, 04:45 PM   #16
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2nd photo in post # 1.

Look INSIDE the entranceway.

Ed
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Old 08-26-2009, 04:51 PM   #17
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He's referring to the second picture in your original post (#1).

Wikipedia says they're called "breeze blocks" in the UK.
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Old 08-26-2009, 04:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Can i ask whats a cinder block?
Cheers
Dave
Officially, Concrete Masonry Units, or CMUs.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:45 PM   #19
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AAAAAAhhhhhh right i get you now sorry lol
Yes Chelsea there called breeze blocks over here, sorry i misunderstood, there commonly used over here in the internal walls of a house.
Cheers
Dave
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:49 PM   #20
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Here's an easy one for you Dave - no questions attached

Nice Job

Bet you didn't that such a small job could lead to all these questions, what can we say - it is interesting seeing how things are done in other locales / countries
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