Wallpaper removal - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

bjg5240 · 07-04-2007, 07:58 AM

Looking for some advice on 2 layers of wallpaper removal. It appears that the installed put the first layer over virgin wallboard with no primer or paint. Is this a total hopeless venture, or does someone have some tips to ease the pain. Thank you for any help someone can give, I tried a cheap Home Depot steamer, but it was useless. Also, the original paper is probably 20yrs old!

Da Vinci · 07-04-2007, 10:38 AM

If it went over raw sheetrock, and it's not coming off- why hassle with it (I know some here will disagree)? Seriously, we don't mess with it if it's on securely- prime it with clear or pigmented shellac (Zinzer). It dries fast and prevents bubbles. If any bubbles occur- cut them out and patch just those small areas. Once shellac dries, you can mud over it, (at least the seams), skim coat or texture and then paint.

If you strip, use DIF. It's an enzyme that breaks down glue. Mix it more concentrated than they recommend in as hot water as you can stand. Saturate the whole room once, then go back, hit one whole wall, then once more just in area you're working. Use 6" stiff blade it will come off...

Bay Area Painting Company

bjg5240 · 07-04-2007, 11:43 AM

I thought about re-rocking the whole darn foyer, but what a pain that would be! I'll give that a try, but I'm still up for ideas!

daArch · 07-07-2007, 09:38 PM

If the first layer was indeed put on raw rock, it is married to it and will not come off without the facing of the rock coming off also. Fugetabout the steamer, useless for what you have. The best damn stripping solution is Safe & Simple. DIF is next, and Roman Strip+ follows. "Fast" is mis-named.

If "possible" strip the outer layer off. Then make sure all loose spots are removed. Sand.

Are you papering again or painting? If papering, I would not use B-I-N. It is not a primer for wallpaper. Heck, I've never been thrilled with it as an all-over primer. It's a stain and knot primer, IMO.

I am 100% against not removing existing paper, but I do realize a situation like yours requires going against all that I deem sacred. With that in mind:

Depending on the type of paper that you are dealing with. If it is a pulp, many would say prime with Zinsser Gardz as it has penetrating properties. Then paint or paper. (using appropriate prep coats for either)

If it's a vinyl coated, Roman Adhesives makes a new product that is made for this situation: Multi-Task™ PRO-900 Universal Primer Make sure you sand first to give the primer some mechanical bond.

**slickshift** · 07-07-2007, 10:15 PM

If it is over raw sheetrock, it's not coming off
Not w/o ruining the sheetrock anyway

If it's firmly adhered and other-wise in good shape, an oil primer can go over it

If it's a mess from removal attempts, or in iffy condition, then Gardz it

Skim/repair what you need to with joint compound, sand smooth, wipe clean, and re-prime any repair areas, or the whole thing if needed (latex is fine this time if painting, if hanging, then the hanger may have a preference)

bjg5240 · 07-19-2007, 04:39 AM

It's been a s l o w process, but the first layer in completely off. Hot water plus DIF has been doing the trick. The remainder is going to be primed and skimmed before any painting can be done. Thank you everyone for your input, at least I dont have to re-rock!

Nigel S. Shorts · 07-21-2007, 02:55 AM

Keep the surface saturated and it should go a lot faster for you. If the papered surface is porous it'll suck up most of that Dif and water quite fast. Keeping it wet by frequent spraying will/should help a lot.

davidanbess · 08-31-2007, 08:08 PM

Hi, I just read this post last week as I was removing some wallpaper in an old farmhouse, well my prep was Dif and I applied this on using garden sprayer, soaked whole room then went back to 1rst wall and started to scrape, mostof it came off without having to remove the backing paper but on other areas it was also pulling of the front layer of paper from the sheetrock. After stripping I applied the GARDZ (first time user

) as per instructions from this forum and then skimmed with joint compound, then rubbed down and applied Gardz to all areas, then checked over and skimmed a couple of little areas that were a bit iffy then touched these areas up with some latex primer. Then applied my 2cts of superpaint eggshell. It looked first class and the client was highly delighted, and of course so was I.
Many thanks for the info supplied on the wallpaer forum.
Here are a few pics of the ongoing work

Regards D/B

davidanbess · 08-31-2007, 08:13 PM

Hi, this is the another 2 pics to assist anyone else who finds themselves unsure of the possible treatment and indeed the outcome.

Regards D/B

welovepainting · 08-31-2007, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Da Vinci

If it went over raw sheetrock, and it's not coming off- why hassle with it (I know some here will disagree)? Seriously, we don't mess with it if it's on securely- prime it with clear or pigmented shellac (Zinzer). It dries fast and prevents bubbles. If any bubbles occur- cut them out and patch just those small areas. Once shellac dries, you can mud over it, (at least the seams), skim coat or texture and then paint.

If you strip, use DIF. It's an enzyme that breaks down glue. Mix it more concentrated than they recommend in as hot water as you can stand. Saturate the whole room once, then go back, hit one whole wall, then once more just in area you're working. Use 6" stiff blade it will come off...

Bay Area Painting Company

TOTALY AGREE !