Must You Pull The Wallpaper Off?

boman47k

I think we are saying the same thing. I was just saying in the situations where all will not come off and it is done like you did and I do, are some saying we will still have problems? Is it a "hack job"? If so, I guess I can wear that label.

slickshift

Oh no...I mean, yes
Not removing the covering to save a step is hacking it
Not removing all the covering because it's creating unacceptable damage....that's different
Sometimes you reach a point that the only other alternative is to re-rock

I didn't not remove all the covering because it was a messy, time consuming job
In fact, I did remove quite a bit
Anything left was, for all intents and purposes, basically part of the wall

One may have been contact paper put up on the walls, and the adhesive ranged from unknown to caulk
Although I got most of the "vinyl" part of the covering down, I could not get it all (mostly the "backing") w/o further damaging the drywall
I also could not remove all of the adhesive, as in fact, it was basically unknown stuff (except where it was obviously caulk...lol)
The Gardz sealed up the damaged rock, and sealed in the raw/ripped drywall and any remaining backing

Another was three ancient layers of covering, the first (bottom layer) on the wall directly applied (no primer/sizing)
I couldn't even get the middle layer off w/o unacceptable drywall damage, never mind the bottom layer...that was never, ever, coming off
I removed the top layer and oil primed, etc..etc...

Although re-rocking would certainly be an option, removing all the covering/adhesive wasn't
I handled the situations properly and provided a quality option
I'm confident I won't have any problems with these

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

joasis

I know some of you may wince, but I have used a trick from a painter...he paints a cheap coat of latex on over the paper, and strips everything that comes loose, then paints...I have done this, and it does work...beats me why. I did shoot texture on and let it dry for 24 before painting for real. Reading this stuff makes me glad I don't claim painting for a profession.

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boman47k

Hmm, interesting. Maybe he derived this idea from the gell strippers.

You're right, I did kind of make a face when I read it. I might would try on something of mine as an expeiment. Not sure how long I would want to wait to see if any problems popped up. wouldn't look forward to having to remove paper that has been painted over if.....

ProWallGuy

Joasis, don't fret. That is my prefered style to remove foils. It gives it more body/strength so when you try to remove it, it doesn't come off in itty bitty pieces. But this is a fairly rare scenario.

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boman47k

Yep, I may have to try that because I tend to worry about the floors getting wet/messy when covered.

MakDeco

We had an instance where the paper was put up by a homeowner onto the paint that the builder used It would of been a nightmare to get off it pulled the drywall paper with it. We oil primed the paper cut out any over lapping seems and patched where needed and re oil primed patches and then painted with latex its been 6 yrs and no problems. All though I would not reccomend this unless it is a dire situation. Most paper will come off if applied correctly.

boman47k

been there done that, but I did skim the area.

mushogi

Im in England, over here if a paper just doesnt want to come off we seal it with zinsser wallpaper primer and then line the walls with 1000 grade lining paper ,then paint as usual.

jordanski

had a fully furnished living room, dining room, hallway, clients not going anywhere, antiques everywhere, no steaming or new drywall possible. they said come up with something that wouldn't be messy and make it look like no wallpaper. And they wanted to be able to live in it each night.
The paper was pretty sound.

I cut out the overlaps on an inside bevel with a sharp util knife, and any unsound paper right there, and a few bubbles. Mudded the cut-out sections with 40 min. hot mud, then skimmed it flat with lite topping compound and hand-sanded with a shop vac and hepa filter just underneath my sanding hand. Two thick coats of zinsser bulleye with a 6" cat's paw (weenie roller) thick rag ext. nap (the type where the nap goes around the outside end) and it blended perfectly. They put on two coats of high hide eggshell and it looks seamless, money. They agreed it was a no-guarantee solution and two years later it's still perfect, no bubbles, no separation at the crown or base, and we're talking 50 year old wallpaper in a quake zone.

You guys think that's a crazy idea?
again, it was the only option that was acceptable to them. I was taking down and putting up $1000 antiques on the walls every day, needed nothing but a shop vac and wet rag for clean-up, room stayed fully furnished.

curious as to other's experiences
jordan

boman47k

Only primed and skimmed the cut-outs? Then it was painted with water based paint?

jordanski

yeah, vacuumed the cutouts, filled w hot mud, then skimmed with topping mud, bullseye, then a high hide latex (high hide, can shot with extra titanium dioxide, think mayonnaise). two years, no flaws yet, so far I've found hot mud bonds well to all three layers of material, gypsum, paper, wallpaper edge, and cutting in diagonally I can fill flush in one coat and skim same day with hot mud. Hot mud mixed kinda hard has no problem with rolling out the hole or sagging.

I know it's not the standard way, but not everyone goes for removal, especially if part of a bigger job.
J

bjg5240

Can you fly out to Pennsylvania, I have a simliar job for you, minus the expensive antiques!

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jordanski

sorry bj, but I'm booked up until at least the end of oct/early nov. That's when the rains come here. Best of luck with your project and if you can wait until winter I'd consider talking about it. Apologies for the late reply, I didn't even notice it for a couple of weeks...
jordan

boman47k

Slick, sounds like we are saying the same thing here. You did that job like I did mine. Removed what I could, primed, mudded/skimmed, sanded, primed,light sanding and paint. Bath several months ago. No problems with adhesion ....yet. Can't say the same about the roller marks . heheh, think itis time to toss the readers and get some real glasses and wear them when I work.

jordanski

I think that's T&M work, if you're desperate take it T&M at a lower hourly rate but I wouldn't flat bid that, you'll end up cutting out bubbles for free after it's painted if you miss something, my work still looks good a while later.

Also I'd put two provisions in your contract, it may crack with quake damage and that's not your problem, and let them know full removal is only 100% way to guarantee a permanent bond, skimming is the cheap route, I think it works especially with the 1st layer being hot mud, but if it isn't permanent it's there choice to repair rather than replace, if they want to bondo a muffler rather than replace it, it shouldn't be at your risk, so let em know and good luck...

perfect

YES I ALWAYS REMOVE WALLPAPER FOR PAINT OR FOR RE- WALLPAPERING MAKE"S FOR THE BEST RESULTS EVEN IF HALF THE WALL COMES WITH IT

perfect

G HOW ARE THINGS IN ALABAMA BUSY? MY WIFE IS FROM ALABAMA GENEVA

A.T.H.I.

When I have wallpaper that is hard to get off I will first try a paper tiger (a tool that puts small cuts in the wallpaper) then I use vinager and water in a spray bottle.

When that doesn't work I will use TSP (it usually does a great job) don't forget to wear rubber gloves and was the residue with a cloth loaded with cold water. Also you can try to heat the wallpaper adhesive with a hair dryer or a heat gun and use a scraper.

If it's that bad re-quote the job for complete wall removal.

daArch

Careful with the paper tiger, too often a heavy hand is used and it scores the wall under. The main secret to stripping is allowing your solution enough time to re-wet the paste. If the paper is pure paper, no abrading the surface is needed. If there is a water resistant coating on the surface, try putting some 36 grit sand paper in a palm sander and going quickly but firmly over the surface. THEN spray with your solution of choice



Vinegar or CLEAR amonia are good household liquids to use. The best stripper I know of is Safe and Simple available through www.safeandsimple.com. Off the self, DIF is suitable, but the fumes need to be avoided (read the label). "Fast" is my least favorite.

But again, let the stripper re-wet the paste. Don't spray and scrape. You need to spray, let it soak, spray to keep it wet, let it soak. I've waited as long as three hours on some pastes (mostly clay)

TSP is not the best and it leaves residue.



In my 38 years in the business I have NEVER heard that one. Not saying it won't work, but I just can't imagine why it would

WALL REMOVAL ???? That's a little extreme. And IMO would never need to be an option unless work is a little slow and you need to put the kids through college.

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