glue on wall - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Jesse Benson · 12-21-2006, 07:11 PM

I am removing wallpaper and preppin for paint. The old paper was installed directly on the drywall, i was able to remove with out damaging drywall paper. My question goes one step further than all the posts i have found searching. What is the best way to get all the glue off, Dif seems to be working when i lightly scrub with a scouring pad. I read hints of sanding but have read no success story of such a project. Once done i am going to coat with Gardz, skim, sand and prime with a slow drying oil as Pro wall guy suggested. Any fast glue removal hints, or precautions.

Richard · 12-21-2006, 07:21 PM

--Ok...I am not as experienced as some...but I have removed plenty of wallpaper especially this year. I will say every wallpaper removal job is different.
--Now, that being said, in your case I would sand. You are saying they didn't size the wall, right? I dont want to see your drywall get all shredded up as you wet it and scrape it, I'd rather see you sand with like 80 or 100 Grit paper and then prime. I've done it, it works. I'm actually 1 day away from posting some more paper removal pics in here

Good luck

**ProWallGuy** · 12-21-2006, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse Benson

Once done i am going to coat with Gardz, skim, sand and prime with a slow drying oil as Pro wall guy suggested. Any fast glue removal hints, or precautions.

Nope. The slow drying oil is only for the situation where you can't wash off any adhesive. In that case, it would be the first step, and not the last.

I'm late, more later.

**Teetorbilt** · 12-21-2006, 07:31 PM

I often prep walls with previous paper and you can run into anything. I usually do the same as Paint except sometimes drop to 60# if someone has done a repair with Elmer's or Goop. Bulls Eye 1*2*3 will lock everything up for paint.

Richard · 12-21-2006, 07:39 PM

another quick tip...if you ever run across paper over plaster, you will definitely want to use oil primer.

...and teetor mentioned the zinsser 123..yeah, that's the primer I keep on hand for general use. I dont know of any other latex primer even close

axnjoe · 12-21-2006, 07:47 PM

If I understand this scenario right.
Our protocol would be:
OIL prime, sand any protrusions, spot prime where needed, skim, sand to paint ready.

Richard · 12-21-2006, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axnjoe

If I understand this scenario right.
Our protocol would be:
OIL prime, sand any protrusions, spot prime where needed, skim, sand to paint ready.

yours sounds a bit off...
-I patch big spots first before anything.
-Then I prime.
-Then I re-skim spots that show through.
-Then I sand everything
-Then I spot prime
-Then I paint

Jesse Benson · 12-21-2006, 09:09 PM

Here is my plan from what i gather.....

Sand the walls with 80 grit with an DA sander or by hand?
Then do my patching
Then prime with Bulls eye 123
Skim coat
sand
spot prime with 123

So leave the Gardz out?

I thank you all for the help, I know this is a repetitive topic but i dont think the horse will be dead after my kick. but next time maybe i can help out.

Richard · 12-21-2006, 09:14 PM

jesse

guardz is just a different primer

we simply recommended the 123 in place of that

just remember to sand (and wipe for that matter) whatever you patch...you left that out....

**Teetorbilt** · 12-21-2006, 09:21 PM

I've had a few problems with Gardz, all exterior though and nothing major. All have involved minor repaints on T-1 siding.

**ProWallGuy** · 12-21-2006, 10:12 PM

Gardz and 123 are two completely different types of primers. If I'm priming over fresh drywall mud, its always going to be Gardz. If you really want a kick-ass hot rod primer, mix Gardz and 123 to a 50/50 mix. Now you have a penetrating primer, that dries to a hard shellac-like finish, with the blocking power of 123.

axnjoe · 12-22-2006, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axnjoe

If I understand this scenario right.
Our protocol would be:
OIL prime, sand any protrusions, spot prime where needed, skim, sand to paint ready.

The original post did not mention any "large patches", since they said that they removed all the paper with out damaging the drywall.
The " spot prime where needed" was for any bare spots that were exposed from the first sanding of any protrusoins.

"Skim" I was implying that the whole wall would be skimmed.

The last part "sand to paint ready" was PRIOR to any final prime and painting, Cuz we all have different thoughts on what we would use and I didnt think that the original post was requesting that as much as the prepping process.

Normally I would never sand bare drywall with a D/A sander and 80grit. But then again I failed to ask what type of glue Jesse was trying to remove and what type of paper was on the wall.

Can you imagine how all of our suggestions would change if we all assumed that it was the run of the mill wallpaper hung with clear strippable versus Anaglypta's formed paper pulp or some enbossed paper hung with a **** load of clay based paste.

**Teetorbilt** · 12-22-2006, 12:23 AM

We always sand walls 'up close and personal' with a DA, usually twice. Rockers leave dings, HO's leave patches and previous painters leave 'skins'.

chris n · 12-22-2006, 07:15 AM

or some enbossed paper hung with a **** load of clay based paste.

LET alone VOV

Jesse Benson · 12-23-2006, 11:08 AM

it was a vinyl paper with a brown ruck hard glue. Between sanding and alot of scrubbing i got most of it off. I am finishing the skimming today. I did a few test spots of 123 primer and it holds fine. I am going to use an oil base primer though, 2 coats then paint.

boman47k · 02-01-2007, 07:39 PM

Quote:

-Then I sand everything
-Then I spot prime
-Then I paint

No sanding between spot prime and painting?

Cheri93GT · 04-14-2007, 09:47 PM

The easiest and cheapest way to remove wall paper I have found and used for years is take a gallon of vinegar mix in a spary bottle half vinegar and half warm water and spray directly on wall paper, SCORED OR NOT. It peels right off. You might have to do a little scrapping every now and then but it is easier, quicker and alot cheaper then DIF

Brushslingers · 04-15-2007, 09:10 AM

My two cents, though people will not like the way I do it... works great for us. Once the stripping is complete we prime everything with high build latex primer, then sand and repair, spot prime and roll it out with finish. 99% of the time you never see the leftover junk.

boman47k · 04-20-2007, 06:34 AM

You guys talking latex primers after all the paper and glue has been removed, right? I normally use oil based primer in these situations.

Actually, I use oil primer when I have some paper that does not come off, and I have to skim. I can see using water base when all paper and glue is removed if the old paint is latex.

Brushslingers · 04-20-2007, 09:44 AM

Ya, after.