Application depends on the wall conditions, and which substrate its printed on. Koroseal, the scrim or nonwoven, and the type II vinyl I use Dynamite 234 HD Clear. On the Rexam, usually prime with DrawTite and hang with strippable clay.
The 'paper-paper' type photo murals, now thats a different story. Those are a nightmare and cause me to drink to excess when completed
I forgot to add for tools I use 2 home-made stainless steel skimmers/trim guides with different angles in the bend of them. I also use a home-made doublecutter guide made from stainless with a flooring adhesive trowel handle riveted on for a combat grip. I almost exclusively use Tajima blades, very sharp and last longer than American line blades. I also have a holenpoker, a tool made by Jim Parodi in NY, which is a roller embedded with row after row of stainless tacks. This is used to puncture bubbles, perforate heavy vinyl to speed drying time if the material has been clear-coated and has become a vapor barrier, and on high-end residential goods. I roll up and down the seam area on hand-prints and block-prints, (Euro paper) when hung with wheat and/or cellulose to speed up drying and avoiding 'seam creep'.