hanger58

I was wondering if there was any technique to change light oak doors into a red mahagony without stripping and sanding and staining all over again. I tried poly shades and it seems to dry to fast leaveing lap marks, I only did one side of a door and don't like the results so far.

Brushslingers

no.

__________________
Benn

Danahy

For starters, change to a product that doesn't dry too fast leaving lap marks.

Dr.Hidegood

Glaze is a pigmented slow drying transluecent stain/paint...it is a technique that takes practice but can achieve what you are after. "Old Masters" makes a Gel stain that can be thinned some & used for this purpose. I am an expert at this technique & know all of the tricks . If you want further info. & teaching I am willing to try and explain it to you.I know several recipes for glaze Doc

hanger58

Thanks, I would be interested in some glazeing techniques I expermented with poly shades and thin it with stain and got some ok results and the customer liked it but I think they could look better. Gel stain does sound like the way to go do you mix that with glaze and what sthe ratio? Thanks again for any help.

Da Vinci

I also do a LOT of wood treatments. Don't waste time with Polyshades you'll just get frustrated. Gel stains are the only way to go.

Lightly sand the finish to give the gel some tooth (use fine sandpaper- like 220 or higher). Don't know if you have ZAR stains where you are but I use them all the time. The modern walnut has some green in it to soften the orange effect from oak. If you are really adventerous, add some green tint/raw umber to neutralize some of the orange yellow of oak. Pint it on heavy, use a soft rag or cheesecloth to "Drag" it off, following the grain. A little experimenting will give satisfactory results.

I usually seal with McCloskey's Satin Heirloom varnish.

Gel staing must dry 24 - 48 hours before clear coating.

Bob
elshaddaipainting.com

Da Vinci

Sorry, forgot to mention- if you mix ZAR modern Walnut and Mahogany, you'll get a nice effect...

Bob
www.elshaddaipainting.com

mikenewman@fron

Also BM tinted poly cut with 20% penetrol and do it in sections like the door was put together. Laying it down on saw horses is a huge help. Good Luck

welovepainting

I agree Old Masters with a little technique can accompish wonders.

Teetorbilt

The best way is to do it right. Strip!

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

welovepainting

Anyone know of a good way to stain, seal, and varnish 30 solid wood doors weighing about 200 lbs each? My concern is the bottoms of the doors, we always seem to damage them through the stainning or painting process because there so heavy moving them around to stain, seal, sand, and varnish.

Joewho

screw some 2x4's at the top and bottom to get legs?

jerrykauf

Hey, Ihave a question for you, I have a homeowner with a therma-tru front door which the painters have stained with a gel-stain I have seen the results of this technique many times and they always look fantastic, however this homeowner's door ends up with a white haze on the inside of the door, the homeowner wipes it off and the next day it returns. I have consulted with a few experienced people and they seem to think it has to do with the application process, saying the finish coat was applied when the humidity level was to high, I would really love to hear what you have to say about this matter, as it would help me out as well as the homeowner. thanks a bunch.