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Old 05-08-2009, 11:22 AM   #1
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Window replacement

My dad's house has the old 50's style metal framed windows, consisting of a fixed window held in by putty alongside a small casement window. Is there a replacement window that will attach to the outside metal frame without tearing up my drywall or needing to be trimmed out?

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Old 05-08-2009, 03:29 PM   #2
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My dad's house has the old 50's style metal framed windows, consisting of a fixed window held in by putty alongside a small casement window. Is there a replacement window that will attach to the outside metal frame without tearing up my drywall or needing to be trimmed out?
Collapse the frame we have a tool that does this, and then a replacement window can be installed
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:45 PM   #3
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Collapse the frame we have a tool that does this, and then a replacement window can be installed
There's a tool?!? I've always just used the Mongo method.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:48 PM   #4
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There's a tool?!? I've always just used the Mongo method.
What is the Mongo method?
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:56 PM   #5
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What is the Mongo method?
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:03 PM   #6
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My special tool for that
is called Tiger....
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:05 PM   #7
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Now I've got a new name for my laborer.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:07 PM   #8
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My dad's house has the old 50's style metal framed windows, consisting of a fixed window held in by putty alongside a small casement window. Is there a replacement window that will attach to the outside metal frame without tearing up my drywall or needing to be trimmed out?
Yep steel casements call for a sawzall. They are strong and set in cement and plaster. The inside is drywall or plaster just butted up to the flange of the window. It will take a beating to remove. As the other mention a sawzall cut through the center of each side then pry it apart, collapsing on itself. You will need to either plan a window to fit in a wood framed buck or jambs clips and lots of caulk.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:34 PM   #9
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on those old units the screws that hold the frame are often puttied over,but you can usually see a''ghost'' of where they are.

After pulling any exposed screws I usually just wedge a pry bar between the wood trim and the steel frame where the screws are and gently pull,the wood usually splits [cedar] and the window pops out without glass breakage

plaster and stucco and masonry usually call for collapsing the frame

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Old 05-08-2009, 08:45 PM   #10
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Real fun when they're behind brick veneer. And they are damn HEAVY when you finally get them out. I charged a premium for a window replacement job off route 4 in Teaneck. Some were twin steel casement with fixed sidelights, Client was happy I was happy.
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:25 AM   #11
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I should add that you will see screws on the operating side & head of the window jamb. If you dig out the putty on the fixed side you will find screws in the same places. May want to break the glass out.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:29 AM   #12
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Works like a charm



I have also found (did it in my own house) Anderson windows are pretty close to the old 50s style casement sizes...may want to give them a look see also.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:19 PM   #13
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Thanks guys. It looks like I'm going to tear off a little stucco. Not a big deal really. I'm adding stucco in the back and painting anyway.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:35 PM   #14
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you can always get them special made as well. I had a job replacing a window in a historic house. I had the pella guy come out, he was able to match the window to the old 1869 size (updated though.. not the weighted sash) within 1/4" of the original. Was pretty slick, looked great after the job was completed.
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:35 AM   #15
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Not being a glass guy, it would seem that double paned could be attached to the old metal frame using modern adhesives and a little custom flashing and trim. This seems obvious to the novice. Probably silly to the expert.
I Googled the question and see others have had the same question yet I can;t find an answer.
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:17 PM   #16
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Not being a glass guy, it would seem that double paned could be attached to the old metal frame using modern adhesives and a little custom flashing and trim. This seems obvious to the novice. Probably silly to the expert.
I Googled the question and see others have had the same question yet I can;t find an answer.


Thats more work and time than it will pay off.

I have paid anywhere from 35 to 75 for a new piece of double paned glass to fix a broken sash.
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:40 PM   #17
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This is one of the several setups we use. DO NOT USE GRINDERS you could end up burning the place down from all the sparks. Sawzalls take too long. This is how we do apartments and condos all the time


http://www.dkhardware.com/product-79...extractor.html
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Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:54 PM   #18
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This is one of the several setups we use.
Wow. That's one pricey comealong. But the bondage visegrips are sexy.

No way I can justify that price for the volume of windows that I do, but there are times it would definitely come in handy. Thanks for sharing that!
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:55 PM   #19
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Wow. That's one pricey comealong. But the bondage visegrips are sexy.

No way I can justify that price for the volume of windows that I do, but there are times it would definitely come in handy. Thanks for sharing that!

I'll give you a hint, Just do what we did, take a good look at the picture and make your own!! We had all the stuff in our shop anyways so it only cost our time on a rainy day.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:03 PM   #20
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I'll give you a hint, Just do what we did, take a good look at the picture and make your own!!
Actually, I already had that in mind. I just needed a source to plagiarize.
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