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Tile Flange moves the wall!

8K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  ApgarNJ 
#1 ·
Hi all, first post :)

I'm finishing the designs on my first solo bathroom (I've done quite a few working for other contractors, but memory doesn't really get good until you start doing it yourself)... and I noticed that my tile flange on the tub is going to require me to fir out the studs about 3/8" to bring the backer-board down over it nicely.

Unfortunately one of my walls of the tub is flush with rest of the room, so now I'm looking at a tub wall that sticks out 3/4" with tile.
the tile alone is fine, with bullnosing, but this extra padding to get over the tile flange is going to look funny.

SO my question is: Is there a common workaround for this?

I could put a 1.5" x 4" wainscot column at the end of the tile (to match other paneling in the room)
Or I could pad the whole rest of the wall, but now I'm changing wall thickness and that messes with my prehung door.

Ideas?

Thanks!
 
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#5 ·
Hahahahaha....

I was just told to "score and carve out the back of the tile-backer board for the tub flange"
Wow, it's that simple. and it appears that the tile flange is only about 3/16", small enough to take out of the back of the wall-board.

Thanks All!
 
#6 ·
FYI for anyone else who who finds this thread with the same question - Upon delivery, the tile flange turned out to be 1/2" wide (thick) and as per the instructions, I will be dropping the wallboard down flush to it, not over it.
This means that I will be making a bit of flashing to go up behind the edge in order to get a vertical drip barrier, and using silicone to seal the joint.

Happy building
 
#7 ·
FYI for anyone else who who finds this thread with the same question - Upon delivery, the tile flange turned out to be 1/2" wide (thick) and as per the instructions, I will be dropping the wallboard down flush to it, not over it.
This means that I will be making a bit of flashing to go up behind the edge in order to get a vertical drip barrier, and using silicone to seal the joint.

Happy building
I do a lot of bathrooms, and I never heard of a product install suggested this way....
 
#8 ·
It's a common practice Mark.. A poly vapor barrier should be stapled to the studs and siliconed to the tile flange. Then the backer can be placed to the top of the flange. The tile will overhang the backer to 1/8" above the tub. (room for tile to tub caulk joint)

Sure the tile is freefloating for all of a 1/2", it's not a big deal. Fill the space with extra thinset if it bothers you.

Tile flanges come in all different sizes. Some Kohler cast iron tubs have a low flange that projects out 3/4". Furring out walls on every one of those installs would be one royal pain in the ass, and just not necessary.
 
#9 · (Edited)
It's a common practice Mark.. A poly vapor barrier should be stapled to the studs and siliconed to the tile flange. Then the backer can be placed to the top of the flange. The tile will overhang the backer to 1/8" above the tub. (room for tile to tub caulk joint)

Sure the tile is freefloating for all of a 1/2", it's not a big deal. Fill the space with extra thinset if it bothers you.

Tile flanges come in all different sizes. Some Kohler cast iron tubs have a low flange that projects out 3/4". Furring out walls on every one of those installs would be one royal pain in the ass, and just not necessary.
I disagree. I don't install a poly vapor barrier on any bath install. Backer down to 3/8-1/2" of tub, Kerdi on top. Done.

And for furring walls out, don't you have to do that anyway? Regardless of tub flange? I know I do because most times the bathrooms we pull apart, the walls are not perfectly plumb and/or square. So we pretty much do it to every wall in the bathroom.

EDIT: I don't disagree it is a "common practice", I disagree that a manufacturer would suggest an install like that.
 
#13 ·
I never said anything about a poly vapor barrier with another waterproofing layer.

I do build Kerdi showers, but often just do an "old-fashioned" backerboard tub surround. That's poly-cementboard-tile. I know some here insist on membranes for everything all the time, Im just not one of those guys. Sure it's a superior building method, but often just not going to happen on the project at hand.

We do discuss this over at JB's with the daily onslaught of DIY'ers. The cementboard terminating on the flange with a proper vapor barrier behind it sealed to the tub seems to be an acceptable method to keep the water where it's supposed to be. It's a tradeoff where furring out 3/4 of a room might not be feasible.
 
#14 ·
I vycor strip all the studs. wide strip of vycor horizontally at the base of the wall where it meets the tub, sticking it to the tub flange. Poly down over all of it. hardie backer over the whole thing. screws are sealed as they go through the vycor. Tub flange is sealed with vycor, once the silicone is done, not much water will ever get back to even touch the vycor it's just added insurance.

this is how i have done it in the past. The more I read about kerdi, the more I want to use it. I don't do bathrooms every single day so I will use Kerdi on the next bathroom remodel I do. I have one coming up in a month or so.
 
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