wayne3434

Im putting up interior walls and the owners want some kind of soundbarrier. The catch is they want me to make the wall as thin as i can. Anyone have any input on how best i can do this?

BKFranks

Check out: http://www.quietsolution.com/acousticfireassemblies.pdf

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Rio

I didn't look at the website mentioned so forgive me if this is redundant but mass loaded vinyl sheeting is a good way to go; it's supposed to be as efficient as lead sheeting which used to be the ticket.

Red Adobe

What rooms and from what sound is the key.

If its bedroom isolation then r11 or 13 should be ok for most folks

If it for a theatre room them its going to get more complex. I know a bit about baffles, isolation walls, and accoustics from work done in arenas and churches but with no details its too hard to even start

BCConstruction

goto your local drywall stockiest. they will have numerous types of sound isolation drywall normally in stock. I looked at some the other day for a home theater.

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Ted White

My first question would be what noise are they asking you to stop? Different requirements for a big subwoofer vs. toddlers playing.

What's the budget? Some of the products mentioned are pricy and some are good.

Generally for low nuisance noise you can stagger the stud wall, R13 fiberglass and 5/8" drywall you'll be pleased. No need for exotic materials at that point.

Rory Read

I sound proofed a mother-in-law apartment using Green Glue and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall on each side of a 2x4 batt filled wall. It worked very well.

The Green Glue website has a lot of how-to and detail. Obviously they are selling their product, but they do describe and rank various approaches.

Resilient channel is also very cheap.

The harder part is all the ways sound travels around that wall. You need tightly weatherproofed and draft stopped thick solid core doors (and no pocket doors). Fastening a commercial rubber door draft stop to the bottom of the solid core mdf door, but so that it swept tightly on the floor, probably made the biggest bang for the buck on the in-law apartment. Also, air tight electrical boxes (caulk or with gaskets), copious amounts of acoustic caulk at structural seems, etc.

And then there are the floors and ceilings. Sound travels through rafter bays, attics and floors. If your client is serious about it, you have to address all of it.

I don't know what it does to the STC ratings, but our code lets us build a 2x3 wall when it's interior and non-load bearing. That way you could grab an inch back from whatever you give up to additional drywall thickness.

wayne3434

Its going to be a spa and the owner told me she wanted some kind of sound proofing. It doesnt have to be like a theatre or studio just a little something to help. But at the same time she wants me to make the walls like 1 5/8 metal studs so i told her we should use 3 5/8 if she really wants to help for the sound and she said ok. This job sucks already as im going to have to carry sheetrock up 6 flights of stairs cause it wont fit on the elevator.Im also trying to keep price down so i make some money cause the property management guy always bitches if i go over my estimate. The first couple jobs for him i took my time and did couple extra things to make the job look much better and he doesnt want to pay so now i just make it good enough no extra things to make the job better now hes gonna get what he wants to pay for. I dont like working like that but he gets me a lot of work so i cant turn it down.

Ted White

Cheap build:

Staggered studs. Cheapest decoupling you can get.

R13 fiberglass installed vertically, not horizontally.

Double 5/8" drywall.

JohnFRWhipple

If we had to keep it thin I would use Quiet Rock and Safe and Sound Batt Insulation.

If I could beef up the wall a party wall system is better with staggered studs like mentioned above.

Quiet Rock is uber drywall and we have used it on multiple jobs over the past 4 years with amazing results.

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.................................................. .................................................. ........."When It's Perfect. It's good enough." - John Whipple

Mellison

Also, caulk all seams before taping ceiling and installing base moulding as well as around all switch/outlet boxes etc.

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"Enjoy Every Sandwich" Warren Zevon

Ted White

+1 Damped drywall, whether pre-damped or field damped is a great performer. Standard insulation will do the job, no need for "acoustic" insulation.

wayne3434

thanks for all great suggestions i think im gonna try the quiet rock.

Ted White

Consider asking about their Quiet Glue instead. You'll get a higher performance wall and save quite a bit.