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#1 |
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Pro
Trade: Roofer
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 167
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Shower Part II
Hey Guys,
I took the shower out today. I posted pics below. I have a couple of questions. 1. During demolition a peice of the drain broke. It was the piece that existed just above the shower hole. Is this going to be a problem? 2. Can I extend the shower pipe and outlet upwards a bit? It has always been too low. What is the standard height? Last edited by jerome8283; 09-29-2006 at 08:27 PM. |
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#2 |
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Class A Contractor "BLD"
Trade: Remodeling and home improvements
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 1,286
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Re: Shower Part II
Go ahead and frame your curb. Then call your plumber to install a pan.
Do not try this your self. Plumber will tie the drain and pan in, then you will be ready to tile. Are you a HO?
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#3 |
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Pro
Trade: manager of excavation division
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: danbury,ct.
Posts: 3,660
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Re: Shower Part II
While you have it all torn apart I would change out that diverter and adjust your shower spoyt accordingly.
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___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________ Joe |
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#4 | |
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Pro
Trade: Roofer
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 167
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Re: Shower Part IIQuote:
I picked up this book, http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide.../dp/1589230620 which provides step by step instructions for the pan install. It appears pretty straight forward. How much would a plumber charge to install a shower pan? |
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#5 |
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Celtic's #1 Fan
Trade: electrical
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,581
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Re: Shower Part II
not nearly as much as they will charge to remove the shower and fix it after you screw it up. It only looks straight forward until the real install stops looking like the picture in the book. Good luck. I am positive that you can do it, but plan on several attempts and a lot longer time frame than you planned on.
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#6 | |
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Pro
Trade: Roofer
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 167
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Re: Shower Part IIQuote:
Ghee thanks |
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#7 |
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Contractor
Trade: Excavation, Foundation, Concrete
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,276
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Re: Shower Part II
Jerome, throw the book out and run up to the ceramic tile and stone section of this forum.
http://www.contractortalk.com/f73/ Post asking for help w/a shower pan, RD or Bud Cline should be able to help you out. These guys are top notch and can walk you though. A shower pan is not difficult at all. With your skills as a mason it should be a piece of cake. Plumbers rarely do it correctly any way. From what I see of the photo you posted you need to remove some of the remaining old drain from the existing pipe. Looks like a gasket and metal cup from the old shower receptor is still attached. I built my own shower pan and I am a just an excavating contractor. ![]() PS. Nice demo job!! And here is a link that will help. http://ontariotile.com/preslope.html Last edited by tgeb; 09-29-2006 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Posted link. |
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#8 |
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Pro
Trade: General Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,370
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Re: Shower Part II |
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#9 | |
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Class A Contractor "BLD"
Trade: Remodeling and home improvements
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 1,286
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Re: Shower Part IIQuote:
Another side note as far as the carpentry goes.......add another 2x4 stud on that back wall where the drywall looks to be 'floating'. This will also give you something to screw your tile backerboard to. Skim coat using 20 mud this transition and the one next to entry door. Also, is the floor 3/4"? Beef up the shower floor with another layer of 3/4" to prevent 'deflection' that may crack your mud floor. Plumber in my neck of the woods would charge $500 for pan, and diverter (Delta 1700) change mat. and labor. Well worth it.
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#10 | |
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Pro
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Re: Shower Part IIQuote:
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#11 |
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Remodeler
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Re: Shower Part II
can you get to the drainage from beneath the stall?
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Damned if im gonna do it more than once. |
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#12 |
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Pro
Trade: Roofer
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 167
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Re: Shower Part II |
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#13 |
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Class A Contractor "BLD"
Trade: Remodeling and home improvements
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 1,286
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Re: Shower Part II
What is underneath? Even if it is ceiling, you may have to cut a hole to access underneath. Or you could cut a square around the drain on the top side and piece it back in.
Call a plumber.
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#14 |
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Pro
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Re: Shower Part II |
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#15 |
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Pro
Trade: Roofer
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 167
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Re: Shower Part II
I was able to get the drain off. It just required a little more muscle and careful maneuvering.
Also, I confrimed again, the floor consists of two layers of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood. |
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#16 |
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Pro
Trade: Wood working in spare time.
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: kankakee county,Illinois
Posts: 1,539
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Re: Shower Part II
i also agree i would install new antiscalding valve when its open. I have no ideal about shower pan the drainage pipe looks like trouble. I say
MIKE FINLEY |
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#17 |
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Class A Contractor "BLD"
Trade: Remodeling and home improvements
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 1,286
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Re: Shower Part II
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#18 |
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Moderator
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Re: Shower Part II
A push-on shower drain can be installed from the top side, as can a solvent weld PVC bodied drain.
Or am I missing something?
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"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y. New York Times, July 20, 2006 |
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#19 |
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Contractor
Trade: Excavation, Foundation, Concrete
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,276
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Re: Shower Part II
Yes, the extra work involved to cut a hole in the ceiling, and the repairs related to that.
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#20 | |
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Class A Contractor "BLD"
Trade: Remodeling and home improvements
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 1,286
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Re: Shower Part IIQuote:
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