Removing A Section From Load Bearing Walls

wilsongc

i am going to open up a doorway in a load bearing wall at my house, what is the maximum recommended length of the span assuming I am using 2 - 2 x 12 as a header? This is an interior wall running down the center of 50' x 22' house with ranch style roof.

The more opening the better, but i don't want my roof to cave in (or even come remotely close)!

BTW, as far as bracing for this job, I am told to build to temporary walls out of 2x4's and put on each side of the wall as long as the length. I am afraid this will damage the sheetrock ceiling. Has anyone done it this way?

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Website Professional
General Contractors - Chattanooga, TN

genecarp

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kevjob

please consult a structural engineer before attempting this.

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Kevin


www.ObrienConstructionDenver.com

Celtic

21' 12 & 3/8"

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SLSTech

What IRC version are you using - they have span tables in them for what is approved after you calculate snow load, weight, etc... I think it is 7' for what you described w/o snow load. Trusses or rafters?
As for the damage to the Sheetrock - it is better to have a little damage there than the roof on your head - besides you are still going to have some when you open up the wall all the way to the ceiling.
I would highly suggest that if you have any doubt - you should contact a structural engineer.

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neolitic

I have an idea.
Hire someone who knows
what he's doing.

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mickeyco

The answer you are looking for is, Bamboo, it's all Bamboo these days.





.

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AtlanticWBConst

You're a GC, and you're asking that question?

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neolitic

Chinos and paper GC?

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genecarp

Believe it or not, he even has a website that talks about generations of experiance, GO FIGURE..

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wilsongc

Sorry, I didn't mean to be ridiculed. I am helping my father with marketing for his business that was started by my grandfather in the 60's. I could ask him but I figured I would ask here b/c up to this point I have found this site to be an invaluable resource for things like this. No, it is not my business (the website). It's not like I was going to take your answer and get a chainsaw and start cutting. I am just trying to get an idea of what can be done.

See 'website professional' in my signature? If anyone has any advice on what they can do, should do, or what it might cost for website or any other tech related stuff, I will gladly give advice for free. That is what online communities are for.

The kind of answer I was looking for is 'your probably going to be good up to 8' but above that I would do load tests' or something similar

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General Contractors - Chattanooga, TN

Double-A

Wilson, that is as silly to us as "just toss some html code up there and you'll get all kinds of traffic on your website" sounds to you.

Sorry brother, but there is more to it than you're even starting to imagine. Talk to dad on this one. He'll explain some of what you have to consider.

Sheetrock damage is like copy and paste, its part of our job and we don't worry about it at all.

Now that we understand the question better, and the point of view its being asked from, I'm gonna ask everyone to stay professional.

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JumboJack

You need to think about the footing also.The weight that was spread out over the entire length of the wall will now be concentrated on two new and possibly un-supported areas......I'm just sayin'

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in texas with framing and cornish people will do it for 3.00 a foot. What do yall think about that? Just laber

wallmaxx

The reason no one here will tell you a physical dimensioned answer is that we are professionals who build things for a living. We don't throw out answers to things over the net that require calculations and physical inspections, to ensure that every possible fail point has been considered and remedied on-site by licensed pros.

If I said, oh sure, just put in a 7 foot opening...dbl 2x12 can support it..and you did...and later, you had a failure (comes crashing down on dad or someone). What a tragedy.

A. A professional will NEVER give out blind technical structural information on something he can't see or touch, over the net. Just like we don't bid projects over the phone without looking at the plans and standing on the site.

B. You can decide to do whatever you'd like...but asking people here to reassure you that what you assume will work will in-fact work is not safe.

C. There are a bunch of variables.
a. Is all the framing in good shape or is there rot?
b. What kind of floor system is the existing wall sitting on? You are about to take a load that is probably spread along the length of the wall and now concentrate most of it where the trimmers will be. What is supporting the floor directly under the new trimmer location?

You see where this is going?

I want you to be successful in this endeavor and most of all SAFE. If I ever suggested something that failed and hurt or killed someone, that would be a scar on my soul forever.

Best of luck to you.

Mike

wilsongc

i guess it is a pretty dumb question, maybe I should have put what factors determine how long the span can be. I was just eating breakfast and thought about it and posted a quick post up here. I do understand what you guys are saying, I am sure people come on here all the time asking similar questions and just start swinging. I assure you I have plenty of resources and experience at my disposal before any wall comes down. I really don't think my wife would let me knock down a wall unless someone else (that knew better) was present.

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General Contractors - Chattanooga, TN

neolitic

We can also see,
"General Contractor
Trade: General Contractor, Sitework, Demolition "
Maybe you should change one or the other?
Just for the sake of clarity, not
to mention honesty, or TOS.

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gtmstang

Wisongc, did you not get my pm from yesterday. I'm not far from you and would come by and look at it for you. Check the pm. Nobody here can answer your question without seeing it.