AllGoNoShow

I work part-time with my bro-in-law's business doing general type stuff (windows, siding, roofing) and he called me up to get measurements on a customer's kitchen they will be redoing-said it would be easy cause it is a basic L-shape. Well I went and got the measurements and we purchased the cabinets the homeowner had picked out (just your average premade cheapo Home Depot stuff), and then I figured out I screwed up in one area.

It seems when I was measuring I didn't see ( I don't know how) that one of the walls is not flat-there is a small, 10" wide by 4-5" deep false wall in one spot that goes from the floor up to the ceiling. Upon further inspection I guess this false wall is being used to house a return air duct that goes up to the 2nd floor (it is a very old house and I guess with the a/c they wanted a return duct on the 2nd floor and didn't want to cut the bottom plate of this load bearing wall to put the return in the actual wall). It is not possible to relocate.

My bro-in-law doesn't know yet so I want to get your opinions on what is the best thing to do. We want the base and hanging cabinets faces to be flat so we don't want anything sticking out- can we notch the existing cabinets we have (kinda seems like a cheap way to do it but I doubt it would look good) or should I go back to the Depot and see if they custom make the cabinet to have this section notched out (but I'm worried on how long that will take)?

What do you guys think? Anyone have any ideas?

Nick

Forry

Call your bro-in-law bro.... sounds like your in over your head. Might be good to have a possible fix in mind to run by him, but he should know what's going on. I'd want to.

DesPro

Most likely a stock cabinet line would not offer this type of modification.
If they do offer it you would be looking at a min 4-6 week lead time.

As far as re construction of the cabinets yourself , it would all depend on your level of skill , the proper equipment, and the HO approval to make an acceptable modification. Yes it is possible , we do it ocassionally but we have a complete shop to make it possible .

Determining the relationship of the chase to the cabinets involved would determine the best possible solution . There may be several modification options available to address this type of scenario.

My recommendation would be to contact a local custom cabinet shop as their experience would most likely have dealt with this type of problem. They would probably be able to offer several solutions . But don't expect it to an inexpensive way out.

I would definitely discuss the options with your brother in-law prior to presenting them to the HO in order to maintain your credibility .

Additionally I would simply explain to the HO that stock cabinet manufacturers do not offer these types of modifications , however we can have it done locally to ensure it will be correct .

Good luck.

__________________
"We are continually faced with great opportunities which are brilliantly disguised as unsolvable problems."
Margaret Mead

tom m

Home Depot will accept almost anything on returns. But I dont think that is going to help you anyway. Did you buy them pre assembled or do you have assemble them? If you have to assemble them your-self you can locate which unit lands at the bump out and cut the sides, top and bottom to create a shallow depth. You can then groove a channel into the shorter pieces you cut to house the back panel. If your not real good with a table saw you might be eating the cabinet so be becareful. Home Depot cabinets are not well made mostly that Mills pride particle board or Thompsonville I think. If the bump lands between 2 units you have a real hassle on your hands that may be beyond your skills or available tools.

tom m

On another note I would explain to your bro that the route taken was already the cheapest route and it might be worth trying to modify a unit than special ordering another. I also doubt any local shop will want to modify someone elses cabinet or at least not for less than tripling the cost you paid.

firemike

Two other ways I can think of.

#1 - Pulling the other base cabinets out to match those that mount on the false wall. This will only work if you are custom-making the countertops though, such as laminate, solid surface, or granite. For the uppers, you can either build out a false wall only behind the upper cabinets to hang them on to make the whole row even, or cut the rest of the uppers down to a reduced depth to match the others.

#2 - Continue the false wall all the way across. Don't know if this will work in your situation though. If there is a soffit on top, then the only part of the wall that really needs to look good is what will show between the upper and base cabinets. If there is no soffit, then the ceiling corner will need finishing too.

__________________
-Mike-

Tom R

Here's the easiest way to 're-make' the cabinet.

Figure out the size of the vertical notch you need to make, - - allow an extra 1/2" in each direction for 'variation', - - install your two vertical pieces (connected into an L-shape) into the inside back corner of the cabinet first, - - fastened by pre-drilled shank and counter-sink holes with screws on at least the back, the side, and the top of the cabinet (if not the bottom, also), - - and then, - - only after everything is attached and secure, - - cut out the back cabinet corner section itself, - - using your new pieces as your guide (jig saw will work fine, - - not necessary to cut perfect, - - you left a half-inch of play, remember??).

Now you've already 'constructed' your corner and re-inforced your cabinet(s) before you even started cutting, . . .

P.S. Do try to cut the bottom (of the wall cabinet) accurate and tight to the chase, - - it's the only part that will show, - - use a pattern of cardboard, or felt paper, or 1/4" Launne, or whatever, - - and once you like the fit, - - just trace that onto your cab-bottom for your cutting-guide/line.

Pearce Services

Modifying cabinets is not that difficult for a good carpenter, But you need to look at your layout to see if the chase wall hits the transition between boxes. If it does, it would be worth trying to alter the layout to let the chase fall in the middle of a cabinet box.

This will keep you from having to remove the corners of 2 adjacent boxes. Less labor, less chances for a mistake, and a stronger box when you are done. But the biggest reason for this is if you have a drawer in the base cabinet, you will not have to shorten the drawer hardware.

AllGoNoShow

Thanks for all the great tips! I let me bro-in-law know and he pretty much stated exactly what you guys said and it won't be too big of a deal. Luckily, the chase runs in the middle of a base cabinet so I won't have to notch 2.

firemike

Does the base cabinet have a drawer? If so, that will need modification too.

__________________
-Mike-

HallisseyDesign

Call in a hvac guy and see if he can make the pipe going upstairs wider to keep the same air flow but skinner depth wise to make your cabinet fit. I had to do that with a customers kitchen last week too.

DesPro

You could also conceal the chase between the base and wall cabinets by installing an appliance garage .

__________________
"We are continually faced with great opportunities which are brilliantly disguised as unsolvable problems."
Margaret Mead