Dust-Free Remodeling

BuildersII

Must... have... zipwall...

We always use plastic and tape, but that thing would save me so much time. We also usually rig a high-speed shop fan blowing out a window to create mighty negative airflow.

For floor protection, we've come to love these bad boys:

http://www.getrung.com/google.html?g...FRYeDQodVnjUIA

We love em. I've seen these take a drill falling off of an 8' ladder without harming the hardwood floor underneath. Also they're great for making a path through a room with a finished floor.

Trilogy Matt

I used this stuff once and have been using it ever since, its much more durable than even the heaviest papers. It has some cushion to it as well so it holds up well to the inevitable tool or material drop. It's reusable and I was surprised with it's durability.

peterjames

Apply plastic to exits from the room under remodel. If the entire house is under remodel, then take the remodel a room at a time. If possible, tape the plastic to the wall. This makes a much better seal than simply nailing the plastic to the wall. Also, remember to leave one means of exit. Preferably to the outside of the house rather than to another room, but sometimes an outer exit is unavailable. Be sure to buy the heavier and more durable plastic sheets for exits. The lighter plastic will easily rip during the remodel.

abacab

I took the class today, shaking my head most of the time. Nothing much they said was practical, it will go the same way as OSHA laws and regulations. Most of us don't even know them, and most of us violate them every single day without knowing it.

I also like the way the new laws violate other laws on safety. I had a good laugh when one of the instructors tripped on the perimeter barrier he had set up.

moorewarner

Thanks for this link!

Many buildings here in city have 10' ceilings or higher so the Harbor freight was a no go.

moorewarner

Thanks for this link!

Many buildings here in the city have 10' ceilings or higher so the Harbor freight was a no go.

abacab

Does anybody have a cost on becoming totally compliant? Here are just a few expenses, just to get started, not including the labor needed to actually carry this out:

class on lead certification: $150
Lead certified firm: $300
Only one type of vacuum allowed: $650
hepa filters for tools: unknown
lead testing packs: $20 per house
plastic: $30
Garbage bags: $10
Hepa respirator: $30-50?
zip wall poles: $250
Duct tape: $8
Sticky mats: unknown
cones or something for making perimeter barrier: $30
Signs to warn people: $20
print out form to give to customer: $5
labor to have secretary keep track and make sure everything is filled out $40
Extra liability for being sued, whether or not it's your fault: priceless

BCConstruction

Also beware of the HEPA filters for converting your vac to HEPA rated. I bought a new one for my Ridgid vac a couple of days ago that i now use for my table saw and they have removed the lead rating it had. The Ridgid filter i had before said it was good for lead dust. The new ones don't! I never expected them to be good for anything like lead dust because of how much blow by you get from the filter anyway but they they have removed that rating I'm not at all surprised.

Make sure you buy a good vac as all else is pointless if you are going to pump the dust through the vac back into the house.

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bbgcarpentry

anyone own the bosch vac look better than the fien and the fest to me.???

charimon

It is a great vac.
That same vac is also sold by Metabo, and Mafell.

<<Now standing on my BLUE soapBox try the Nilfisk Attix 8.

http://www.time.com/time/specials/20...658526,00.html



Craig

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"The existence of the flame thrower proves that at one time, somewhere, somebody said, " You Know, There's a group of people over there that I'd like to set on fire right now, but they're too far away."

gbryant1

I got 4 of the poles from northern tools. I use them for hanging cabinets, drywall (even on 10' ceilings), as zip wall poles, and sometimes for smacking my partner in the head when I catch him dozing off on the job..
They were on sale for like $19 bucks or so............

peterjames

Doorways: Before the work starting for protect doorways , always designate one doorway as the entry and exit to the work area. To seal up the other doorways,use 6-mil poly and masking or tape. For doorways that open onto other rooms or hallways, seal both sides.

For the designated entry doorway, use a two-layer plastic system. On each side of the jamb it secure one sheet of plastic that's 12 in., bigger than the doorway on all four sides.

Floor protection: start by thoroughly vacuming floors to remove existing grit, then lay down a layer of 6-mil polyethylene plastic, overlapping the edges by 6 in. and taping the seams continuously with duct tape. After that,tape the plastic to the baseboards or walls.Protective panel materials, like 3/8-in. plywood or 1/2-in. paper-based pressboard, also work well.

davitk

yes, and be sure you use heavy duty Duck tape to secure all that plastic.

peterjames

use a two-layer plastic system.

RocknTJ

Humidifiers help put moisture in the air that bring the particles down

davitk

I learned a couple of good ones at my RRP training yesterday.

- using a layer of painter's tape under the duct tape, minimizes the chance of leaving duct tape residue and lift-off damage.

- placing your HEPA filtered shop vac hose on the outside of your dust wall, and poking the hose through the plastic and letting it run, creates negative air in the work space and keeps the dust from escaping.

- always pack your own lunch when attending an all-day seminar just in case the trainer doesn't provide one.

abacab

Lead is a heavy particle and falls straight to the floor (more or less). That is why only six foot from the area you are working needs to be covered. (that is what the teacher told us). Also the plastic needs to be taped to the wall, not the baseboard, as lead particles will accumulate on top of and behind the baseboard.

davitk

Funny, our instructor suggested taping to the flooring vs baseboard, as the paint is often not properly adhered and the tape could cause damage.

I would think lead behind the baseboards is a good thing, as it is now encapsulated.

BCConstruction

Right need some advice on how you guys deal with dust and plastic. I have been doing my own home for a while and had plastic sheating over the walls and floor to protect them. I thought i would try to tidy up to RRP rule regs and was coming across some problems. I tried to vacuum the dust on the floor but kept sucking up the plastic and not the dust, I tried to use a dust pan and brush but loads of dust was still clinging to the plastic. I then rolled up the plastic sheating and dust was coming out of it like it was a dust machine What do you guys do when you pull down all the plastic and how do you pull it down without the dust that is all over it going everywhere?? The only way i think would have worked would have been to wipe down every sheat of plastic before i pull it down!! Which would have taken ages.

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bauler

Where did you guys take your RRP training? I like in So California. I've asked around no one knows.