DensShield & Americast Tub

tommyboy4

Long time lurker, first time poster... Sorry in advance for all of the questions...

Got asked to help on a "side" bathroom remodel since we're a bit slow. The homeowner bought all of the materials and is now asking us to use them to finish. After searching the forums, I'm a bit confused about a couple of things:

1. The plumber set an American Standard Americast tub with a one inch flange. The homeowner, on the recommendation of HD, bought DensShield for the shower walls (something I have never used). From what I gather on the forums I should bring the DensShield to the top of the flange. The 12” tile then will hang off of the Denshield down to about a quarter of an inch off the tub, which will then get caulked. Is there a problem with leaving this “void” where the flange is? Also, since DensShield appears to need no vapor barrier, what should I use to seal that area – between the flange / stud / bottom of the DensShield?

2. How should I seal the corners where the DensShild pieces meet? And moreover, should I seal the head of the screws with something?

3. Can I use regular drywall mud on the DensShield to smooth it out? Or is something else more appropriate?

4. Lastly, the homeowners, to seal up the bathroom from the attic, installed greenboard without a vapor barrier. Should this be pulled down and a vapor barrier installed? I don’t want to tell them that I have to rip down their hard work, and charge them extra, without a good reason. I should note that their electrician already has the exhaust fan installed.

If I'm not thinking of something else, please let me know. As always, thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Mike Finley

I've only got a few moments to respond so I'll have to keep it brief...

Use only setting compounds for mud, nothing else, that's from GP who makes it. Water proof your seams with mesh tape and thinset, seams and corners. We also silicone all corners prior to thinsetting. We also put a dab of silicone over each screw head just in case.

I wouldn't leave a gap between the tile flange and the DS, it's supposed to overlap it.

Oh and Americast tubs blow. Anything else would have been a better choice. Anything else.

Greg Di

Some flanges are only 1/4" to 3/8" high. You can cantilever tile off the DS in that situation. With a 1" flange, you have to pack out all the studs (usually with lathe strips) so the DS overhangs the flange and leaves a 1/4" gap to the top of the horizontal part of the tub.

Depending on the framing, sometimes you have to pack out a lot of the studsin the bathroom to make it work.

__________________
Your source for:
BergenDECKS.com ::: Decks • Porches • Railings • Pergolas in Bergen County New Jersey
Remodeling and Home Improvements in Bergen County | EPA Approved Lead-Safe Contractor
Techno Metal Post ::: Residential, Commercial and Industrial Helical foundation piles

Follow us on: Facebook | Twitter | YouTube

Mike Finley

Greg have you ever dado'd out the back of the DS instead? Just using a utility knife to take an 1/8th or so out of the back

Greg Di

Nah...some of the flanges are pretty thick (thicker than 1/8" with the tapef/flared bottom) so I wouldn't want to take that much out of the back of the DS. There wouldn't be much left. Plus, if it's an older house that had plaster on it originally, a lot of times the tub is too small for the corner or the studs are wavy/out of plane, so the lathe tends to be a catchall solution. I use an air stapler and gang cut the lathe with a cordless circ, so it goes up pretty fast.

__________________
Your source for:
BergenDECKS.com ::: Decks • Porches • Railings • Pergolas in Bergen County New Jersey
Remodeling and Home Improvements in Bergen County | EPA Approved Lead-Safe Contractor
Techno Metal Post ::: Residential, Commercial and Industrial Helical foundation piles

Follow us on: Facebook | Twitter | YouTube