Valley Ends Before Easetrough - Causing Failure

mattbradley1

Hello...
I'm working on a victorian roof at the moment. I'm normally a cabinetmaker...but this is for an excellent client who doesn't want anyone else working on his house. So after peeling 3 layers of asphalt shingles and one layer of cedar shakes we've established that there are several problems with the roof design. The worst problem is the valley between the south and east sides of the roof. The east roof is about two feet longer than the south and so the valley between them ends short of the trough, causing the water to run over the shingles (hopefully) but more likely into the washroom below. To add insult to injury the stack is in a direct line with the valley. Gravity would likely act in our favour in keeping the water away from the stack. I' figured the best way to deal with this is to make the connecting strip between the valley and the trough in aluminum. I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion on how to do it. If there is a better way please tell me.

Many thanks,

Matt Bradley

MJW

First of all that fascia running into the roof should be flashed. Running the shingles underneath doesn't work. Then, the stack should be moved. I'm not sure of the codes where you are, but in MN the stacks have to be run out the roof and extend 24" above the peak. This is not an easy fix, I know, but it will solve all the problems.

mattbradley1

Thanks for you input MJW
When you say flash the facia, how far would you extend the flashing on to the roof? In one of the reroofs flashing was installed on the facia, pretty much as you described. I'm not sure if it was installed correctly or not but it certainly didn't solve the problem. Perhaps they didn't extend the flashing onto the roof far enough. As for the stack...it unfortunatley can't be moved without prohibative cost, with building permits and a new cast iron stack - it would cost around 6grand. Love to be able to sell that to the client - but changes to the stack have to go to a high level building permit procedure here in toronto that take forever. We can't tarp the house for that long!

Matt

fettycan

sence your replaceing all that wood all ready you should run the vent pipe up the roof higher to get a way from valley they make a rubber pice with house clamps to go from cast to pvc just fix it right then get permit

MJW

It would probably take 2 pices of regular step flashing. Put the shingles under the overhang up far enough so it looks good from the ground. Then put the flashing on the fascia one at a time with the shingles interweaving. (Sorry if being so specific) Make sure the flashing bends up onto the roof above the fascia then run the valley tin down onto them. I haven't had one leak yet. Maybe it is hard to decsribe without a picture.
Also run I&W under that whole area, under the fascia, and doewn the valley overlapping it.
You plan on resheathing this right? Get the fascia cut back far enough to fit all this under there.

MJW

I'm guessing it is a 80% furnace, so PVC won't work. Need class B piping.

Glasshousebltr

Replace the rott first off then:

1.Replace stack flash with a good wide one.(if ya have to add more metal)
2.Shingle up under soffit with metal counterflash at top.
3.Step flash up facia to roof bending the top step up into valley.
4.Install metal valley tin down over top step no less than an inch.
5.Shingle away baby!

Bob

__________________
Bob

fettycan

sorry I thought it was a plumbing vent

mattbradley1

Thanks for the input guys. I'll post a pic on monday or tuesday night of the flashing job.

AaronB.

Tip: Install the step flashings behind the fascia to keep it watertight and outta sight.

That should be my new motto.

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RooferJim

#1 is to replace the rot including the rotted facia board
. install I&W to the whole area extending up the verticle where it meets the wall, install new flashing including a lead piece behind the facia, put a new flashing sleeve on the pipe and strip in the flange with I&W.IF you do this and pay attention to detail everything will be OK.

RooferJim

www.jbennetteroofing.com

lady roofer

That is a real roofer's reply, fix it than get the permits, I really appreciate that because that is what you have to do to get the inspectors to understand what you are doing.

River Rat Dad

I can't count how many times in 26 years I have fixed that screw up. All the lads describing the necessary step flash detail at the fascia, and extending the valley a wee bit past that crucial point get a BIG from old RRD

gman1966

If you can get the shingle under the valley and it is at least 8" from the fascia to the wall under the valley it will be fine.

gman1966

Correction: Shingles under the fascia

Glasshousebltr

If you deside to do that, leave the wood up off the shingle a bit or the facia will rub a whole in the shingle every time your mother in-law moves to that side of the house.

Bob

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Bob