Unusual Drip Edge Technique ?

JTW

Hello Everyone, I have been enjoying this forum and figured I would chime in for some input. My client recently chose Certainteed GrandManor's for there pending shingle project. The wife showed me a picture that she was interested in replicating. The image is on the cover of the certainteed "Roofing selection guide" It appears to be a dripedge that extends out overthe gutters, perhaps part of the seamless system? It essentially appears that the dripe edge is longer(deeper) than normal and is exposed. This would be a nice classy look on this new roof. So does anyone know of what I speak and have any input on this technique being used in NH with fairly heavy snow occurences? See web image under Grand manor, Photo gallery, and toggle to image of home with "gatehouse slate" color(sorry will not let me post a link until I make 15 post).

Also anyone worked with these shingles?

Glad to be here, thanks.

maceycon

They are not much different to install than regular shingles, just a different pattern. If you have any question. Read the packaging. As far as the drip edge it is not unusual. I'm surprised you hadn't seen it before if you are a roofer. I haven't found the image on certainteeds website. They have redesigned it since last time I was there. I am assuming we are talking about the samething. Just go to Harvey's or ABC and tell them what you want.

dougger222

The Grand Manors are nothing like arch. shingles, not even close. Four tabs versus no tabs.

These are what Certainteed calls the "Super Shangle" They are a line of four tab oversized shingles that are two layers thick. The Carriage House and Centennial Slate are the other two Super Shangles.

Here is the instructions for the Grand Manor,
http://www.certainteed.com/resources...norinstall.pdf

The last high end shingle job I priced out as with Landmark Premium, Landmark TL, Presidential Shake, Presidential Shake TL, and Grand Manor. Due to the 430ft of ridge the Grand Manor materials bid was even higher than the Shake TL bid. The home owner ended up going with the Landmark TL which I think was a wise choice.

Grand Manor has been the highest ranked consumer report shingle for years.

They are fun to lay and even funner to cut. Compared to laying laminate shingles with cutting and chalking lines plan on up to 50% more installation time. Before you bid on labor do your homework!

Laid them all but I still like the Landmark TL's the best for lifetime shingles with double ridge of course.

RandyB1986

JTW......I think you are seeing the picture with the stone on front, if so that is gutter helmet leaf guards.

RidgeWalker

Or he could be talking about DL Style Drip edge. = )

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maceycon

I said they are not much different than regular shingle in the way they are installed. Not how they are made. It is just a different pattern.

dougger222

Macey,

You changed your post to state regular shingles this morning. Yesterday you compared them to arch shingles. Not a big deal just wanted to point this out.

They are much more like standard three tab strip shingles than laminate shingles.

Certainteed recommended in the MSA7 book to rack the Super Shingles. When I run the Super Shingles I like to run a series of verticle lines starting out so you don't rely on notching off the tabs but run them on straight lines. Lifting Super Shingle tabs isn't very much fun. With this method you stairstep them but every new shingle gets a line to start on.

I don't know about you but on steep cut up roofs I would much rather run laminate shingles than tabbed shingles.

maceycon

I know I did because that guy misunderstood what I said. They install similar to Arc or 3 tabs with a different pattern. I think he thought I meant the were similar in the way they were made. That's all. I was just trying to tell the original poster they are not that hard to install. They really are a combination of tabbed and Acr.

dougger222

I see. The original poster still needs to know what he's getting himself into especially if the shingles gotta go on in the cold. The package of course will have the most up to date instructions on installing the shingle.

maceycon

I agree

JTW

Thanks for the follow up, gutter helmet it appears to be.

This is to be a early spring project, approx 40 sq. home is a sprawling ranch, so easy to get at, 8 valleys and 175ft of ridge($55/bundle covers 10ft???that is what the supply house said, does that seem right)and do you think that is the only option? Interesting I have priced these shingles out and what a spread, $227/sq to a high of $285/sq. that is almost a variance of $3k in shingles alone, oh yeah now manufacturers are talking about an increase in March, what the????

So after reading the install guide(thanks Dougger222)I see they will require the vertical stack method, douger222 you mention a method that will reduce the lifting on these and state lifting the ends is well, difficult. Can you provide a better desciption of the method you refer to? It also sounds as though I will need a chainsaw to cut them, so any recommendations based on your experience?

Also, it is mentioned that these will take 50% longer to install, than archs. is that the general consensus? I really do not see weaving the valleys on thee, that wouldlook like.... I think open valleys in copper, any thoughts. I want this roof to be impressive!

theroofinggod

Grand Manor requires metal valleys,and copper is an excellent choice for a lifetime warranted material,they cut with a hookblade(very tough!),or a shingle shear is an easier tool for this job

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Tom Struble

nice

dougger222

The pricing will fluctuate from supplier to supplier.

It's funny that so many roofers think racking is not the way to run tabbed shingles and now you have Certainteed themselves recomending it!

At any rate how I would run the shingles is this way for a gable roof.

Rather than running two lines up the roof 3ft and 4.5in short of 3ft snap lines every 4.5 inches from the gable to your normal 3ft and 4.5in short lines. What you will have is five lines running up the roof off the gable run. You will basicly stair step the alternating courses but will have a straight vertical line to run off. Rather than running the full shingle off the gable end you will want to run it off your farthest line.

Running off a bleeder shingle (starter shingle) on a rake only works when every starter is cut perfect, which you won't find.

If the roof is hip roof you will have your work cut out for you! In that case you may want some G-tape.

Copper valleys will look the best but will be the most expensive option. Last year I priced out copper flashing on a cedar job and the dormer flashing, riglet, and valley flashing were all around $20 per foot. Copper may have come down since then though.

The ridge for the Grand Manors are very expensive.

Good luck and have fun.

JTW

Thanks Dougger222, great info.
Roofgod,that is a nice project, what did you use for hip/ridge?

Roof is a gable, but a sprawling ranch, shaped like a lower case letter h.

So now the dumb question, I assume I can do the same if I am forced to work right to left(do to valleys, instructs, say to work left to right), also if I have valleys on both left and right, how would you recomend starting that section(with a center line stepping off 4 1/2"??).

Thanks again.

apehangeralfy

They recommend a "W" valley metal for the open valley. The cap is real thick but you can use there standard cap and double it up with 2" nails, check your local code cause some require 1.75" nails due to the added thickness of those shingles...