Torch Down Roofing

steveoboist

I am looking at a job that involves 3 small roofs. One roof is about 300 sq ft. The other 2 are about 100 sq ft each. All 3 are less than 3" per 12" run - nearly flat. I looked at all the available flat roof systems and settled on torch down. I talked with several folks and it looks pretty straight forward - except for the fire hazard and the general torching technique.


Have a fire extinguisher and hose water supply nearby.

Tear off old roof and roofing nails
Repair wood as required - flat surface
Install 1 1/2" aluminum ADE drip edging with roofing nails to direct water away from the wood surface
Install flashing as required
Lay out overlapping fiberglass paper, cut flush to edge and add roofing cement under fiberglass edge.
Nail down with quarter size head roofing nails about every 12"
Roll out overlapping torch down roofing with 3/4" drip overhang
Torch with care

I am sure I missed something.

Any good tips on torching technique ?

Thanks very much.

Steve

mdshunk

Better check with your insurance carrier to see if you're even insured to do this if things go south!

MALCO.New.York

Yup!!

You missed the ISO board and the BASE SHEET, and the proper SCREW DOWN metal fasteners.

http://www.firestonebpco.com/roofing/insulation/iso95/





And use Firestone.......If you want a PROPER job!

POST SCRIPT: If the roof is true flat, you may consider this.

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MALCO.New.York

Torch-Down Roofing is nearly idiot proof. It is wrapping protrusions and finalizing corners that separate Roofers from Weekenders!

Just a note: If you are leaving any sort of footprint, you are OVERHEATING the media.

Another Note: Bleed Out.......

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Ed the Roofer

Hands on experience!!!

Hire someone who works at a commercial roofing company to help you out as a side job, with the intent to learn from him, so you know how to do it properly and safely.

Ed

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Renegade

Disaster waiting to happen.

Well, you don't need the ISO board, but you DO need the base sheet, modified preferably (NOT "fiberglas paper". Nailed properly. Sandwich the perimeter etc etc.

You might want to listen to the experience here (Ed, Malco, and others). At least find someone experienced to run this one for you and learn from them. Torchdown may not be the toughest roofing to install, but it's not something you want to learn as you go. Best case the job will be installed improperly, worst case...well, torchdown is about the most dangerous roofing you can do.

Also malco, been happy with rubberoid on low-end jobs too. Nice product for the money.

genecarp

dont overheat, role it out first, get a line, i dont like running more than 12' runs, a 3 pitch will want to slide down on you, stick 6', then roll back and hit the other side, good luck.

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steveoboist

Gentlemen:

Not to worry, I intend to hire a torch roof professional.

I just wanted a good overview of torch roofing so I can pick a good team.

There are no protrusions and 6 corners. Its on a modified, vented garage and an open porch. Upper Midwest (Chicago) location.

I looked at rubber adhesive roofing and it seemed to be a lesser product.

The current roof has cheap, granular roll roofing and was poorly installed. It lasted about 10 years. Now bubbling and pulled away from the edges. Needs wood repair that we will do.

Strangely, the rest of roof (with much steeper grades) used high quality arch. asphalt shingles - probably 30 year. The installation is tight and looks good.

So it would help a great deal if I know a few techniques to look for in a roofer so I don't screw up a job. Footprints I understand. Sandwiching ? Corners ? Bleed out ? Also, its poring rain this week. Can a torch roof be be installed on a (slightly) damp surface when the weather clears and a few days of drying? More questions for the torch guy.

Thanks.

Renegade

If you are considering SA (self adhering) system, Certainteed flintlastic SA and GAF liberty are both excellent systems. Properly installed I've been very happy with them on certain jobs. I prefer the full 3-ply flintlastic here. That is one system that you could actually tackle yourself and, done properly, you'll be very happy with the results.

Ed the Roofer

What town or section of the city?

I am from the Dundee/Carpentervile/Algonquin/Elgin area, called Right Way Roofing Company, where I do 99% of my work.

Grumpy of Reliable American is around Glenview or Northbrook.

Aaron B. of Rose Roofing is out of New Lenox.

Ed

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steveoboist

Alright. Give me a $ estimate for 100+100+300 roofs = 500 sq ft. Easy access. I supply the modified fiberglass and torch down material. You torch down and flash as required.

How does SA compare to Torch ?

Ed the Roofer

I mentioned the locations, just to see if you were close to any of us.

I personally prefer to work within 15-20 minutes of my office, so are you located close to the area that I am out of?

I could also recommend others that may be closer to you that I know too.

If you would like, contact me through my profile and e-mail me any contact information you can provide etc...

Ed

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Grumpy

If you are roofing in the state of IL you are breaking the LAW. You need a roofing license!!!!

Why did you decide on torch applied modified? You intend to use flammable roofing cement on the base before torching? I advise against that! Don't use aluminum flashing with torch applied roofing products. The aluminum will bend and warp from the heat. It's gotta be galvanized or kynar steel.

I highly suggest if you are doing this yourself, something installed without flame. You can go buy epdm from any big box now-a-days and install it safely. You can also buy self adhering modified which has no chance you will burn anything down. I've done alot of SA on small jobs like this over the last 3 years with no problems yet. I don't expect any either. I'd only be worried of SA if there were a chance for ponding.

I can loan you a very experienced roofer at $80 per hour who will come fully insured in a van fully loaded to get the job done right the first time. If you want a fixed price visit my website below and email me the addresses and I will drive out and do a measurement or inspection. If you don't want to give me addresses post pictures of each. We don't price jobs by the square foot really, except at a starting point.

Questions I would need asked in order to give you an accurate price...

-What are your warranty requirements?
-What are the heights of each roof?
-What kind of access?
-What are the EXACT dimensions of the roof and what type of termination at all sides. Brick wall? Gutter? Metal edge? Shingle Tie-in.
-Is ther a tear off involved? If so what is being torn off and how thick? Who is supplying dumpster?

Pics will defenitely be needed.

steveoboist

I contacted some local professionals. Most are convinced an SA is fine and more attractive.

Thanks again.

Ed the Roofer

I should have sniffed this one out sooner.

HO getting info.

What GC calls around for several opinions after 5:00 PM on a Friday evening looking for a contractor and needs to do a 5 square roofing job for himself?

Locked. No sense in posting the DIY script at this stage of the game.

Ed

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