Tinning A Barn???

Bradracer18

Hey guys, I've got a couple of questions for you. We've got a barn that needs re-roofed. This is a big old barn. The roof pattern(starting from the tails).....it goes at a small angle for the first 5'.....then up at a larger angle for about 20'......then not quite so much of an angle for the rest. The barn is probably 60'x30'. The roof is very tall at the peak, probably all of 30'. And the one part is very steep, well over a 12/12. The owner of the barn wants tin on it. Any suggestions?? It doesn't have plywood down, it has little like 1x4's(like in the old days). So, I was wondering, what do you use when going over the angle where the roof changes pitches(that is hard to explain).....but like what do I use to make it so it covers the crack and water doesn't get in?? Also, what can I cut the tin with?? Any other suggestions?? Also, how do I hold myself up there, especially on the last peice, where I have to be standing on the tin?? I have footholds, for roofing, but can I use those on tin?? Thanks, Brad

Bradracer18

Well, I went and looked at it today, and answered a few of my questions. As for the rotten roof part, I think I'm going to lay down 2x4's across the roof every 2' or so on up the roof, full length of the roof too, to screw into. And for the parts of the roof where there are angles, or different pitches, I've figured out that you would just overlap the top steel section. I've still got a problem figuring out what to do when a steep pitch(like a 15/12, very steep lets say)....runs into a 4/12 pitch...what do I do for that seem, I can't see how I'd make them overlap....and help?? Also, I'm still stuck on how to cut the steel.....other than a saw with the blade turned around(or is this an ok method)?? I don't want to ruin the saw.....

Thanks,
Brad

red_cedar

The best way to cut steel is with a shearing action. There are tools you can buy/ rent. Useing a saw is not recomended as it leaves an exposed edge to rust and the flying burrs when sawing will be hot and land on the paint and discolor it.

Bradracer18

ok, thanks for the recommendation. Any idea of what to charge for putting on the tin?? Like, what is the going rate per sq ft? Thank you for all of your help.


you don't happen to know of any websites that would show one of these sheers do ya?

Grumpy

There are metal sheers which attach to cordless drills. Very similiar shears are made for fibercement so you have to be sure not to buy the wrong ones.

go to www.abccatalog.com and type "shear" without the " " into the search box and you will find all sorts of shears and shear attachments.

Call your supplier and ask him how much the materials will cost then figure out how long it will take you to install, add your overhead and profit and you have your price. Charging by the sqft is a fools method IMO; Every job is different.

In regards to roof transition flashings, you will need a metal brake and know how in soldering.

locofoco

A standing seam roof would probably be more appropriate for a gambrel roof. I believe there are transition flashings available from some of the manufacturers that would solve your problem with the roof pitches.
Loco

Bradracer18

Thanks a lot guys. I appriciate the help. I looked the roof over today, and it isn't in very good shape. I'm not sure I feel comfortable walking on it, lets just say that. It is quite high too, and the steep pitch throws a problem in there too. The edge of the barn(where a gutter would be) is close to 18 feet high. I bet it more than doubles that at the peak, probably close to 40 foot at the peak. So, my next question....any suggestions as to keep myself up there?? I've got a few toe holds(they hold the 2x6 board, for roofing)........and I have a tractor and loader that will just reach the edge of the barn roof. Any other suggestions, the ground is very uneven....??? Also, with the roof not being in real great shape, should I lay 2x4's down horizontally at about 2' intervals up the roof?? That is kinda what I was thinking. The roof is 45' long, horizontally. Thanks again guys!!

Brad

locofoco

Brad
That looks like a really big job. When I was involved in commmercial sheet metal work, this type of job was a big deal requiring a large crew and a lot of rigging/staging. Lots of safety concerns here.
I'm from the midwest and I've seen many of the old historic barns go down because the farmers couldn't afford the upkeep.They just tear them down and put up metal machine sheds. Dirty shame.
Loco

Grumpy

This is not the roof to learn on. Sounds like too much detail, and metal roofing is all about detail.

Bradracer18

All right guys, after I got up there, I was kinda thinking the same thing. Maybe I can be of help to one of the local contractors then. Most of the local guys are older(40's), and very experienced, and don't like to do stuff like this. We are having a hard time to get any of them to even come out and look at it, let alone bid it. The main concern is the roof isn't in that great of shape, and its very high. So anyways, thanks for everything you've contributed guys. I learned a lot from you two and appriciate everything.

Brad

AaronB.

All successful roofing is aboutthe details.

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canadian roofer

If the metal is screwed down, pop the screw with a regular ripping shovel, and remove the metal. That Barn sounds like it has "Barn Board" which will give you a natural ladder to climb the barn because you would have the boards not touching eachother,gives yourself a nice way to climb.
in regards to the metal needed, to flash in the transition between the two pitches of the barn there's a flashing that is pre-bent to fit the angle.So start you install from the bottom, and when you get to the change of pitch install the flasing and make sure you put the next PAN or sheet of metal goes ontop of the flashing make'n a water tight inviroment.

scentralpirate

rent one of those all terrain forklifts with the extending boom. build a platform to work off of, have four guys ready to go at it, and volia a week and you could be done.

myself, a friend and the homeowner and his 16 yr old son got a 60x37 (8/12 pitch) metal building skinned in 18 hours. with the help of a boom truck to set the 22' panels on the roof. then spent another 20+ hours trimming out the corners and gable ends.

also a small cheat is to nail cleats down through the ribs and when you are done pop a screw in the hole. if you lay the cleats down just right you can leave a neat line of screws that dont look out of place with the rest of the screw pattern.

maxtorque

As far as cutting the metal I'm not sure about other nibblers or electric shears, but the ones I have don't cut across the ribs, they're ok for ripping sheets. Those shears you can rent with the slicing motion work great, but aviation snips work fine for me, use them all the time to cut metal. On the steep part of the roof the purlins would be fine to work off of if you screw off a sheet at a time. I also predrill my metal as well making it easier to screw off with out missing the purlin and keeps the screws straighter. I'd get some sort of anchor at the ridge and tie off with a retractable or rope grab. I too am curious about what others are charging for instalation of metal and or purlins for a job like this.

MJW

malcotools.com

joasis

This is the type of work my crew does frequently. Here are a few answers as we do it: We use a Kett shear for straight rip cuts, a Milwaukee nibler across the ribs, never a circular saw since the edge will rust and streak.
The trim between the 4/12 and 15/12 would look like a 110 degree open, paint outside, angle that your steel suplier will make for you. We call these transition angles.
Repair the roof structure before laying any steel, and you do not have to screw the metal down every 2 feet unless you really want a lot of screw rows. Unless we are going metal to metal, we use 18 volt drills and woodgrips, tech guns for metal to metal.
I am with the other guys, this would not be a learning roof, but if you take it, it will teach you a lot, and use rigging and safety lines please.