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steep metal roof , help!

55K views 30 replies 22 participants last post by  Joasis 
#1 ·
I have a metal roof coming up on a 10/12. I have done many lower pitched roofs up to 8/12. Usually just put on some New Balance clean off the bottom with some starting fluid and go to work. I just know this little trick won't work on the 10. What have you guys come up with?:shutup:
 
#5 ·
No kidding...here is how we do it. We screw an eye bolt in the ridge wherever we need it and sling a tight rope between them if needed. Then with a simple safety belt, it really isn't too bad. To get up there to begin with, we use a long extension ladder....and secure it to the eye bolt. When you are placing the ridge, you can tie off both sides and then safely come down and pull the rope after you.
 
#24 ·
No kidding...here is how we do it. We screw an eye bolt in the ridge wherever we need it and sling a tight rope between them if needed. Then with a simple safety belt, it really isn't too bad. To get up there to begin with, we use a long extension ladder....and secure it to the eye bolt. When you are placing the ridge, you can tie off both sides and then safely come down and pull the rope after you.
No other way.....safely that is. Nice post Okie!
 
#10 · (Edited)
id get a man lift if you could get it around the site, makes it much easier,or set up pumps attached to the fascia with a work table set up
1 or 2 guys tied in to do the field work 1 guy installing drip edge and locking in the lower panel edge a guy on the ground cutting and folding the eave edge and a guy handing stuff up


i would get the proper roof anchor instead of the eyebolt they can be picked up at any roofing supply house
 
#11 ·
Yes, use the correct anchor and real fall protection, if you just use ropes and someone gets hurt anyway, you will take the financial fall.

Is it on decking or strapping?
 
#15 ·
Hello,

Renegade is right.
We use a plank system at the eave and run a chicken ladder using ridge hooks. 1 guy on the plank and 1 or 2 on the chicken ladder depending on the LF run of the panel.

First panel on then you rake it while the ladder is still there. Run your roof to the other rake. Put ladder inside last panel(using the extention part and assuming the panels are 16"). Run the rake on that end. Start the other side the same way. Stop paneling after 11 or 12 feet. Install your ridge while you still have the ladder there. Your helper will be able to stand on the ladder and hand you stuff. Run 10 more feet then ridge it. Keep on until you are at the other end of the roof. At this point we use finger clamps or Brucie Brackets to stand on and secure our ropes. Rake it out and put the last piece of ridge on.
Installing this way allows you to use anchor points behind you as you cover the ones in front with the ridge.:thumbsup:



Keith
 
#20 ·
At this point we use finger clamps or Brucie Brackets to stand on and secure our ropes. Rake it out and put the last piece of ridge on.
Installing this way allows you to use anchor points behind you as you cover the ones in front with the ridge.:thumbsup:

Keith
Hey Keith,

Could you explain the "finger clamps" a little more?

I found a patent on Brucie Brackets, but no manufacturer or distributor. Did not find anything on finger clamps. Could you post pictures of both please?

Where do you buy these?

Thanks, Leo
 
#18 ·
Kind of hurts my feelings you guys don't like the Okie way we do this work!

I never saw a hook like you guys use until i was a member here....but, roofs are just not that steep here typically. A secured eye bolt works great....it is a pain to deal with, but it works fine. I don't remember the name of the rope clips, carabiners or something like that, but that is how we rig up for it, or did. Since we have down sized, and roofing competition is fierce around here, I doubt I will be on any roofs other then new construction for awhile.
 
#22 ·
Hello,

What we call finger clamps are actually Irwin 9" u- shaped welding clamps.http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100327. We also use them to shrink or grow the panel depending if they get out of square with the eave.
I believe that they no longer make Brucie Brackets. We have 4 of them though. They are a clamp system with a rubberized bottom so they don't scratch the panels. I have had them on steep roofs with a 24 foot plank between them doing detail work. I can't find any info on them either. I will take a picture and post it this week.


Keith
 
#23 ·
I really like the young not so bright idea but don't think my ins or wallet would.

Maybe the best suited for this would be the ******* they can climb anything LOL

I did an A - frame in metal, years ago, We did most of it from a friends bucket truck and rented a manlift to finish the spots the bucket truck couldnt.
Thats the only way to go esp when you have to put the ridge and closures on
 
#25 ·
Well I have to respect your Okie ways, since we do them too....

We work on grain elevators, and the first time you do the 32 degree cone roof on a Butler Bin that's 85 feet high, you use what you can find. As for eyebolts, etc., I don't use anything without a rating on its label (I shoot for 1200 pound minimum) but since most grain facilities are made of angle iron puddle welded together by teenagers, your anchorage isn't any stronger than the structure you're attaching to anyway!!!

The Okie way is often the only way.
 
#26 ·
Surely anyone can't be a real roof type guy without a hook ladder..... Metal, shingles or whatever. Pretty standard practice for anything ya can't walk on here. Lifts if ya can get access but usually not the case for residential projects. Nice to start on the right gable so you can screw panels right handed or vice versa if you were cursed with left handedness
:red_indian:
 
#31 ·
I used to have a kid that worked for me who claimed he was the virtual cat...he just would not fall....and then one day, he fell from the high roof and I caught his shirt as he went by me ( I was standing on the first floor roof staging) and broke his fall....if I hadn't, he wasn't going to land on all fours.
 
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