Slate To Metal Roofing.

mdshunk

Is there any additional structural work involved with tearing off slates and changing to metal roofing? Seems like the strapping can stay and get reused for the metal roofing, and the cost savings of not having to plywood the whole roof for asphalt shingles might justify the metal roofing. Input?

tinner666

Do it often. No hassles. Most any metal can span skip sheathing and good steel can span 2' or more. No underlay necessary as a rule. But the underlay manufacturers want the sales and it helps when details are done wrong.

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joasis

On panelized roofs, we can space the strapping, or purlins, if you prefer, to 4 feet. Most of the roofs we do now, we use solar guard, foil side up, under the steel.

I would presume Marc, you are thinking about a metal roof?

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mdshunk

Yes, but only for one specific reason. The roof is presently slate, with strapping at 1 foot intervals. I would rather have asphalt shingles, but this would require re-sheathing the whole roof. I think (there I go, thinking again) that I can get metal roofing on there for a net cost savings, since the roof would not need the strapping torn off and sheathed with OSB.

Anyone have an idea, generally, on the cost of tearing off a slate roof and sheathing with OSB for asphalt shingles versus tearing off just the slate and putting mid-grade metal roofing on the existing skip sheathing?

neolitic

I would think that if there is
a savings, it would have to be in the labor.
I know shingles are going up, but
I can't imagine that shingles and OSB
would cost as much as the metal.
Materials only.
(You wouldn't need to tear off
the skip before you put down the OSB)

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mdshunk

Really? It might be obvious that I don't know much about that. My gut feeling was that it would come off, as part of doing a good job and also to get the drip edge down closer to the rake board.

neolitic

You could use drip edge to cover the
gap. Unless you want to preserve
some kind of fine architectural detail.

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mdshunk

Not really. It's a rental, which is the #1 reason the cost is among the prime concerns. Otherwise, I'd have the slates fixed up.

neolitic

I'm sure some roofers who are
up on current prices will be along.
Things are back at the place where
I don't even try to remember
last weeks price any more.

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Renegade

For a low-end metal system that I would NOT recommend going with, you are looking at 350-400/sq depends on your particular job. For a decent acceptable metal system more like 600 up to 1500/sq. Compare that to resheet and installation of a good laminate. Also, no, you do not need to tear off the skip sheeting, you just sheet over it.

mdshunk

That's helpful information, Renegade. I appreciate it. Now I just need some ideas on what sheeting and laminate shingles are generally per square for comparison's sake. If that's around 600 a square, then it won't make a cost difference if I go with metal or shingles. I'm just trying to educate myself a little here so that when I get estimates I'll know what questions to ask and maybe seem like I know somewhat what I'm talking about. The only thing I know for sure at this point is that the 2 grand a square for new slate is out of the question.

joasis

Low end metal? Different strokes.....the barn tin everyone thought belongs on a barn is appearing on new homes all over the southwest. Very few roofs in this area get $600 a square. Sounds great, and I am sure it looks great, but you have to sell it to a customer first.

Typical roof prices here, for a classic panel roof, run about $250 a square now, and this includes tear-off. Very, very few of the stone coated "shake" look metal roofs around in this area.

The picture shows a metal roof on a new home we built last year, and this is your low end. Something wrong with it? BTW, this picture isn't of the roof, but a stamp job my son was doing. The basic idea is there, although you can't really see any color.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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nlgutters

Around here they are 350 sq for that cow barn metal roofing and a good standing seam is about 550 sq.

Renegade

Sorry for my ignorance to the trade joasis. I've only been doing architectural metal for 20 years. I live in the Northwest, he lives in the Northeast, about the same climate. Just a tad different than the southwest.

Mdshunk, I have found that pricing varies dramatically depending on what area of the country you are in. Pretty sure you are going to find that even with resheeting the laminates are going to be considerably cheaper than metal. I do recommend that, when looking at metal for a residence, you go with some type of standing seam and not any type of rolled-rib or anything with exposed fasteners.

No matter what you put on, it's only going to be as good as the installer you hire.

Good Luck

joasis

What you are seeing above in the picture is "rolled rib", exposed fastener. Amazing.....

I wasn't try to get you in a debate...but I have heard the lines before.....barn tin, cheap tin, etc, etc. We do what works here....and believe it or not, exposed fastener systems, when installed correctly, are an acceptable way to roof a home. The fact is the impact resistance of some of the metals we use is higher then the architectural metal shake materials, and this country is hail country. Standing seam roofs are great also, but unless you know the market, how do you know what people will buy?

Your post indicates you are firm in your opinion....great, but opinion will not feed you in the trades. You can call this area "ignorant", "poor", or simply "low class", since we do a lot of exposed fastener roofing here, but guess what? People here want what works, and a metal roof here is out of range for most home owners, let alone an architectural metal system at $1000 a square. Comp roofs here, today's prices are running $110 a sq. + tearoff. Classic Pro Panelized roofs are typically twice as high, but insurance companies allow 25% off HO policies since they may be a lifetime roof. In this area, it isn't unusual to see a 10 year old home that has had 3 roof jobs due to hail storms. Insurance is getting higher, and most customers who can afford it go up to a metal roof...and the hail is only one reason....fire is another....reflective heat gain is one more point, plus we can actually do some pretty neat things with metal and colors.

I have a background in steel erection....and this kind of took me in the metal roof trade. I don't do very many roofs now...usually now only on new construction homes, but I have probably completed nearly 250 metal roofs in the last 10 years. I know what works.

Maybe an affordable system won't work in your market, but I can assure you that your specialty doesn't work here. Maybe we are simple minded and backwoods types here.

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Renegade

Hey, North Idaho isn't exactly urban sprawl. lol
I am with you on the metal shingles...not a big fan of any of those systems. As far as exposed fasteners, when you have six feet of snow sitting on your roof as we do in the northern climates, that weight tends to compress the panels while the screws stay in place which basically means you have several thousand small leaks in your new roof . Also the movement actually causes the screws to literally back out of the roof. See it all the time.
If you notice, I mentioned rolled-rib, not corrugated. Generally corrugated are minimum 24 ga material while the cheap rolled ribs I refer to are 29 ga. You can literally rip it with your bare hands.

coolflatroof

to nlgutters

that 350-550 / sq... is that with material? 24 ga. or 26? straight gable or dormers/skylights etc? ...

approximately how much per sq for .032 alum/24 steel standing seam do you get? (8 pitch 2 story house with a dormer, plus a kitchen nook hip roof, plus hip shed)

where in NH are you? can you send me some pictures of your work?

to Renegade and nlgutters

do you guys have a website? if so, please post them here

Thanks

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Renegade

Don't advertise much and don't have website, sorry.
Here's some of my work though, if they upload properly

Renegade

They didn't all upload.

Red Adobe

mdshunk:
Id think that redecking would have alot more labor costs and end up costing the same or more, chances are the strapping wont be on exact centers for an easy decking job. There could also be issues with code?

Steel roofs material cost start at around $150 a square (sheets, trim, closures, screws, and roof jacks )

there are some other benefits as well

reduced insurance costs
tax credits can completly pay for materials in some states
Reduced attic temps




The mountains in NM and CO are mostly steel roof and we dont have leakage problems if the deck is solid to start and people use the right screws and space them away from seams in deck. (always use wood grips unless your going into c-purlin and then use tappers and predrill )
I have been called to repair roofs that leaked and what I find is always human error and not product failure.

Self tappers into wood not good
No closures used : allows wind under panel and causes lifting
Wrong roof jacks and sealent (buytl works well)
Improper flashing esp in valleys