Shingles And Pitch Limit

jerk151

Hi All,

In Florida. Old Victorian type house with a add-on lower level. The original roof has arched hip ridges starting with a 8/12 at top to a 5/12 at edge. The lower level add-on has a 2(3)/12 hip roof that runs about 2-3 ft under the original.

This is the problem: The lower (2/12) roof has torch lite roll roofing on it. The people that did this job many years ago apparently couldn't get up under the original roof to safely lay the torch lite. So, they opted for box in the area they could not reach. This box (OSB and felt)was built all the way to the drip edge (at front) of the original roof. It is now rotten, I have not and do not wish to use torch lite, and would like to know if I can safely use regular shingles in it's place. Do I have the pitch for it or is 2(3)/12 too slight?


Thank You
Jody

Ed the Roofer

It sounds like you would be better off framing a canilevered tie in to the steep sloper roof with the flat roofing materials. I couldn't tell how large of an area this tie in was from your description and also the hieght from the flat roof to the sloped roof. The best way is to get the roofing materials under the bottom 2-3 feet of the sloped roofing materials.

You did not mention what type of roofing product was on the steep sloped roof.

Regarding the minimal slope, that is too slight for a proper shingle roof, with the exception of applying a 100 % coverage of Ice and water shield self adhering membrane under neath it first, but that membrane too should go up 2-3 feet under the roof tie in.

Ed

jerk151

Thank You, I have removed all of the OSB and felt that made up the boxed in area. The lower roof was built all the way back to the original exterior wall. The upper roof (at drip edge) is 3" above the top ridge of the lower roof. That is; 3" from the bottom of the facia board to the top ridge of lower hip roof.

the upper roof now has it's original rafter tail exposed and it is 32" from the wall to the facia. So as the upper roof travels up, I have 3" clearance at drip edge/facia board and 6" at the back where it meets the exterior wall. I will be able to get a roofing gun underneath these areas, but not any type of flame (safely).

I agree building a roof to tie into the top of the upper roof would have been wiser as it would have create vallies and easier roof application.

To go back and do that now would just cost too much, it is on top of a 14' x 20' room.


hope this is making sense

Thanks
Jody

Ed the Roofer

Jody,

Doing the procedure the Right Way, doesn't cost, it saves. The tie in needs to be done properly or else their will remain future rotting and leaking problems.

If you are already commited to a price for the project, explain the correct way to do the detail and that this was unforseen until the materials were torn off. The remedy will need to be done at a Time plus materials basis. Why do it wrong if it will not properly solve the problem for the long term?

Ed

jerk151

problem is, that it's my house and I can afford the $400-$500 it will cost for materials to do a repair so it doesn't leak for now. However, I can't afford to tear off a 300 sqft hip roof, raise it approx 6ft or more that it would take to tie in above, then extend all the walls and new ceiling. It's a great idea, but I don't have the time or the 10-12 thousand dollars to do it "Right".

I need a 1-2 day fix and I will probably have to do it again before I get that money saved,

Thanks
Jody

Grumpy

Pictures

reveivl

Can you extend the top steep roof down until it runs into the lower? This could be done just by extending the upper rafter tails and re-sheathing.

Perhaps I'm missing something?

If you can get a nailer in there, then with I&W you can simply shingle the lower roof too.

__________________
From where does knowledge come? If you need to know what is in a box, you could ask someone (not reliable), you could pray, (not useful), you can consult with the scripture (not helpful) or you could open the box (science)