Roofing Shingle Question

mtplus

I have to subcontract out a new roof for a 12 unit condo complex with estimates coming in at about $40 to $45 thousand. These bids are short on specifics. Since I am not a roofer, I am looking for a roofing FAQ so that I can respond to the bids with intelligent questions. Is there a Roofing FAQ somewhere?

Thanks,

Robert

stangit92

simple.. What is each offering for the price they are offering.


Really depends on what kind of roof you got on the condos for me to give ideas to ask your contractors

mtplus

The current roof is a standard 3-tab shingle. I assume that it is a 20-year shingle since that it how long it lasted. The current shingles were put on over top of the previous roof.

Suggestions are appreciated. However a 'Roofing FAQ' might give me more insights into a whole range of questions to ask. Here is my current list of specs:

• The biggest cost of a new roof is labor, which is the same regardless of the quality of the shingle. Therefore it makes good sense to use the best quality shingle that is economically feasibility.
• Inquire as to whether the installer is certified by the manufacturer to install the shingle. If not the manufacturer will not warranty the installation.
• At a minimum, require an architectural-grade shingle as oppose to the old 3-tabs that are currently on the roof.
• Require at least 30-pound felt paper. The Shingles will last longer.
• Require the use of roofing nails instead of staples. The nail heads provide more surface area with which to hold down the shingle.
• Require that all valleys have a minimum of 24-inch aluminum flashing, and that all shingles are weaved across the valleys using a California weave.
• Require a drip edge at the edge of the roof.
• I suggest setting a standard for any caulking to be used such as a good grade 50-year silicone.

Thanks,
Robert

Hammatime

Here is a little more. I'm assuming they are stripping the roof. Ask if any decking is included in the price. Sometimes they will replace a certain amount of bad plywood in the price.

How much ice and water coverage? Should be 3' up at least
Are they replacing all the flashings? All flashings should be replaced.
Are they installing a ridge vent? Make sure ventilation is adequate.
Who's responsible for the dumpster.

There's just a few more, but I'm sure you know those questions, license,ins. etc.

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mattp

Some quality of shingles will take longer for example the Certain Centennal Slate has 4 bundles per square and are alot heavier making it more labor intensive IMO.

stangit92

could get picky with it ..

1. style of drip edge and if it will be mill finish or color matched
2. hand nailed or using guns.
3 replacment of flashing and I/W in ice dam areas
4. ventallation
5.replacment of lead jacks or pipe jack collars.
6. 30lb or 15 lb felts
7. stripping of all materials off roof including nails.
8. insurance workmans comp. etc.
9. refrences

snapper21

Contractor's warranty for leaks or defects due to poor workmanship.

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RidgeWalker

Spec the job you want and make the roofers provide bids based on your spec's. This makes sure that all the roofers are bidding the exact same roof. This way you know your compairing apples to apples when you look at roofer A's bid against roofer B's bid.

Ask for licensing and insurance info. Ask for referrals, check the BBB

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roofstuff

First thing you should do is obtain spec sheets/installation requirements on the roofing to be used. Read them till you have some basic understanding of the materials needed. Then REQUIRE that all estimates SPECIFY each and every component to be used i.e. type of felt, whether ALL flashings are to be replaced, whether additional flashings are needed, any additional redundanties are to be installed....such as a membrane at the eves, etc.

Keep in ind that a guy can actually use all the correct materials, yet still install a junky roof full of leaks. In my opinion the most important factor in hiring any roofer is knowing that they are fully competent, something found in perhaps 20% of today's "roofers'. This is based on my years of inspecting roofs. Maybe I've just happened to run into an abnormal number of bad ones....perhaps it really IS that bad.

AaronB.

It reaaly IS that bad. 16 years in the business and I have found that youre dead-on with the 20%.

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tinner666

24" metal will be a waste. 14" is fine enough to help keep nails from popping up in valley area. As for caulk, you only need BlackJack Neoprene on chimney counter-flashing, and a dab under the metall at upper 2 chimney corners.. I haven't used many shingles lately, but 30# can damage light weight shingles. ( that info is about 10 years old, from GAF).