Roofing Over Cedar

jkdon

Hey guys

I'm new to this site but I've been reading alot lately and I really feel Like I'm dealing with the pros on this one well here goes

I'm a small businessman always looking for a job and I'm dealing with a tricky one here. I have a small 16 square cape sears and roebuck home 1910 that needs a roof. would love todo a complete tear off resheath and put a nice 30 architectural on it. the homeowner plans on selling in two years and wants a job done well but does not want todo a tear off. he says metal over shingles or tear the two layers of shingles off and lay new ones over the cedar. Cedar looks great from the attic and there are no leaks. I almost don't blame him for not wanting to tear all the perlins and cedar off. Never done one like this before does anyone have any experience putting new shingles over cedar? I don't do he hires another guy, but my name is on this one and I figure someone else put the other roof on this way, the shingles are flat and look ok.

thanks

RooferJim

Id walk away from that one, or talk him into doing it right.
has to be solid sheathing.
RooferJim

AaronB.

what about metal over the spaced sheething?

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JustRightCo

I Just did my secound cedar roof 2 layers asphalt reciently. I telling you from my experience they may look good from the attic but once you start tearing the 2 layer of asphalt off cedar shingle will start to come apart, not only that you most likely wont have a good nailing surface. Trust me! I was lucky I had a good understanding homeowner, when I pointed out the problem he had no problem letting me resheath the whole house after all it was going to be done write. Another thing under the cedar (new york state by the way, yours might be different)there are furring strips running across the entire roof, NY code your allowed to leave those strips and ply right on top (5/8 thick)mainly cause the fascia and molding will line up correctly. I say if your already ripping
the roof might as well do the sheathing too. Maybe you can work with him on the price. It took myself and three workers 3hrs to rip & sheath it and 6hr to roof give or take a few but what Im getting at is it was done all in a days work. (14sqs)

River Rat Dad

"....or tear the two layers of shingles off and lay new ones over the cedar."


Theres already 3 layers, 2 asphalt and a cedar ? Did I interpet that correctly?

If so in Michigan it would be a no brainer. By code you gotta tear off. By code you can not leave any layers on and by code you must ply over the spaced boards. We always use 3/8" under those circumstances. The strength is already there in the existing deck. Your just creating a smooth surface.

What does code say in your neck of the woods?

JustRightCo

OH YEAH! Thats the same here by code DUH I forgot to mension that one!

jkdon

hey thanks for the quick responses guys, I'm used to using the automotive forums and it takes 3 days to get the great info you guys gave me in a few hours. Well I,m in N.Y. if that helps, but I'm in the neck of the woods that doesn't require much attention to code, but I want todo a good job like I said my name is on this one. Well maybe it is time for me to learn to work with metal. I guess my next question would be how about a metal roof. A painted steel nothing real fancy, maybe go right over the shingles or do they need perlins? Thanks again guys I appreciate the feedback.

AaronB.

Tear it down to the spaced sheathing, and install a nice pac clad standing seam over it.

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Free roof inspections within 12 miles of our locale.

jkdon

Aaron B.

thanks for the help but I'm not really sure what you mean by a pal clad standing seam is that a nailer attached perpendicular to the existing perlins? thanks again

Jkdon

Grumpy

tear off.

AaronB.

Pac Clad ( I edited my typo) is a trade name for Petersen Aluminum's galvanized steel line of products with Kynar 500 finish. Really good stuff.

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Seamless Industrial and Commercial Roofing Systems, Residential Repair. For Those That Demand Quality!
Free roof inspections within 12 miles of our locale.

Grumpy

Aaron what are your feelings on aluminum standing seam? Peterson makes all their standing seam products in prefinished steel and prefinished aluminum (kynar 500, as you mentioned.) Obviously the aluminum is much cheeper of a product and will probably look the same as the steel.

Alan Hughes

I do a lot of those type roofs.

tear it off down to the purlons. renail the purlons and adjust to make sure the seams in the sheathing meet over a purlon. Sheath in with 1/2" cdx plywood. Edge metal, #30 felt, and 30yr Arch shingles or metal. Proper ventilation.

I'd sell that or walk away.

4 to 500 a sq, all inclusive for the shingle roof.

AaronB.

I think the aluminum will look worse off as far as oil canning is concerned. I have never done one in aluminum, but aluminum is much more succeptible than steel to warping at the same thickness.

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Seamless Industrial and Commercial Roofing Systems, Residential Repair. For Those That Demand Quality!
Free roof inspections within 12 miles of our locale.

jkdon

thanks guys

I'm going to tear it and sheath, know sheathing over perlins? should I use H clips on the ends where they meet another, I'm use to sheathing over new trusses, should be pretty much the same I hope. I'm still lost with this aluminum clad thing, or should I only be concerned with that if I'm going with metal?

thanks
Jkdon

reveivl

I assume the purlins aren't flush with the rafters? If they are raised I would use clips wherever the ply will be unsupported. How far apart are the purlins, you might need to run some blocking for support if the span is much more than 24". My 2 cents, Rich.

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AaronB.

Are there purlins? Is this a residential roof with rafters and skip sheathing?

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Free roof inspections within 12 miles of our locale.

River Rat Dad

Its a Sears kit house I think he said. Original deck probably 1x6 fairly evenly spaced just wide enough to jam your boot toes in the gap. The whole dang roofs a ladder. Ply from the top down as you go!

jkdon

thanks guys,

It is a sears house and is build like a tank, is does look like a ladder from the attic. Know do I Ply parallel with the rafters or perlins? why do I ply from the top down I'm lucky to be doing this job with two guys so I'l be doing a few square each a day.

River Rat Dad

We ply from the top down cause its easier using the spaced boards to stand on, assuming a pitch you can't walk on that is. If the current spaced boards are in good shape, no need to end on rafters. Just be sure to get plenty of nails in those outside edges. Also no need to stagger the ply either. The structual integrety is already established by the original roof boards.