Roofing Cement In A Tube....

A W Smith

it depends. if you are using shangles with a big exposure put roof cement under the bottom of your flanges. At least on the sides, 5 inch exposure you shouldn't need anything. I like to put clear silicon on any exposed nail heads like on the bottom of flanges or the last ridge cap. So none of you guys from Idaho use and caulking in the reglets of your chimneys or brick veneer? I always replace the aluminum flashing even on re-roofs. new counter flashing bent up as well. if it were copper i clean it up and leave it. I see so many hacks around here just slather a bunch of roof cement all over the counter flashing on re-roofs here. For me the new chimney flashing is part of the job.

__________________
Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

2ndGen

Ditto...

Today, with all the pre-made flashing (vent boots and such), there are very few places where roofing cement (I never use caulk on a roof) is definitely needed.

As for repair work, there are situations where it's needed because a certain section would require a major rehaul in order to get it right. It only buys time.

But a well done flashing cement repair job (with or without fabric) will last years if done by a pro.

A new roof won't need any cement except to seal any exposed nails.

I'm really old school where I need to be.
There are some things in roofing that just aren't replaceable completely yet.
Flashing cement is one of them as are galvanized roofing nails.
While rarely, I stilll might use a spike & ferrul to attach a gutter
(but I avoid that like the plague).

We certainly can't discard what's worked for decades.

I haven't come across any material that seals a roof in specific instances like flashing cement has.

Caulk? It won't last after the first freeze/thaw cycle.

It has no place on a roof. It just won't stick to shingles or to existing tar surfaces well at all.

Give me a can of cement and a rounded nose trowel and I can give you a repair that'll last years.

How? A "real" roofer can "read" a roof and see what's going to happen when the weather changes and that structure wants to breath and move.

Slopping on some "plastic" cement from Home Depot simply won't due.
You have to go with a company that's been around longer than the work they guarantee. Again, Karnak or Bulldog...simply the best.

Guns are great, but even with them there are still times when I just like to whip out my hatchet and bang a few by hand. If I'm not in a rush, I'll do it just as meditation.

Yes, roofing is growing technologically, but I'm not going to be the guinea pig for a new product. I've seen so many "systems" come and go over the past few years.

For the building types around where I live, right now, a nice cold applied SBS Mineral Surfaced roof is still the best way to cap off a flat roof and shingles...better than ever as far as I'm concerned (although I still miss the old Bird & Son 3 Tabs that were great...yeah, I know they were bought by CertainTeed yeah! My favorite shingle company, but I'm just romantically attached to those old brown paper wrappers and that Bird & Son Logo).

Anyway, sorry for ranting...I just have to chime in on using new materials to do old repairs.

__________________
"I've been up on the roof. I know what those guys go through.
My whole life has been about making that profession respectable."
Ken Hendricks
www.SolutionsRoofing.com

2ndGen

Shouldn't be any roof cement on any metal flashing at all
(unless it's pointed in with actual cement).

I too can't stand a sloppy Roof Cement job.

A nicely flashed (roof cemented) chimney is a work of art and done right,
will last decades. I believe that roofing cement is one of the few things that we use who's quality hasn't gone down.

__________________
"I've been up on the roof. I know what those guys go through.
My whole life has been about making that profession respectable."
Ken Hendricks
www.SolutionsRoofing.com

MALCO.New.York

If it at all necessary...........

Geocel 2300


http://www.loglightersales.com/Borde...ealant_400.gif



or


NP1


http://www.midwayrentalsandsales.com...mages/np-1.JPG




This is Great for Large area Sealing!



http://www.geoceltransportationproducts.com/20101.jpg

__________________
Something to One may be Nothing to another!

Ultimate Wisdom---------
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW-cnizLDEE

Just a Roofer

What i use is geocel 2300 (i originally thought it was 2600?) which is a tri polymere & is meant to be used for roofing applications where needed. It seems as some of you are misunderstanding what i use it for. A chimney flashing for example after cut in & installed gets caulk (tri polymere) along the mortar joints after it is nailed in place. I also put some where the 2 sides & the back pan meet up just like a baby tin installed along a wall on your first one you start on that wraps around a corner. I'm sure some of you have other names of what i described but thats how i call it.

If you guys install a attic fan, put in roof vents, b-vent pipes, don't you nail the bottom part of the flashing that overlaps the roof to keep the wind from blowing it up in the future? I do & always have which means i put a dab of geocel on the exposed nails. Am i the only one that does these kind of things? You guys act like that is roofing like a hack & totally disagree with that. All i know is that it has worked for me & have had very few callbacks. It also looks good as i'm not gobbing some huge amount of caulk anywhere. When you finish up your ridge cap & put the final piece on let's say on a hip roof where the 3 points meet up do you face nail it & just walk away? I guess i'm missing something here if what i said above is hackish in others eyes, fill me in. Before anyone says that chimney flashings (as i call it) can be set with mortar after installation, yes i know that but don't do that myself as 99% of others do it the same way i described, some better than others as i've seen some crazy flashings. Grumpy being from chicago should know very well how the city roofers slap some dope on the chimney & cash the check before the first leak.

Tom Struble

i never said you shouldn't use the proper sealant the original OP said the roof just needs some roof cement and without thinking too much i said it shouldn't ''need'' cement. I was not questioning anyone's roofing details if it came across that way i apologize

Just a Roofer

No hard feelings Tom, i thought i was being cut down by you at the time, i don't want any enemies & was kinda defending myself. The o/p never did say what he was trying to do, if it is a small repair & replacing random shingles here & there then yes i would put some sealnt down under the shingles & surrounding to seal them down especially this time of the year when it's 15 degrees right now.

Tom Struble

kool and ill try as hard as i can NOT to put anymore of that 3'' counter flashing on my siding jobs anymore.Its goin to be tuff cause i love the way that looks

flippinfool

Karnak Ultra........

theroofinggod

definitely use the ultra version of flashing cement,or henry`s elastomer is another excellent choice,Geocell 2300 is great on roofs,and will not come off (without a knife anyway),usually with pipevents or apron flashing details,I`ll put the elastomer where the flange will sit,set the flange into the sealant,and not nail the exposed flashing area,the nails at the side of the flange do get elastomer sealant,even though they`re under the shingles,there is still water traffic there

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"If it`s worth doing.It`s worth doing right!!!

www.ADVANCEDROOFINGNEWYORK.com