Right/wrong/correction??

BHI

Just did a reroof w/ tear off. used elk/gaf prestige..Wondering what is the normal instalation procedure for them.. if a drip edge is used, what it the required or the norm of the overhang past the drip edge..mine is supposble too short at the eves at 3/4 inch overhang and 1/16 -1/8 shingle overhang past the drip. and if that is wrong, how to correct?

genecarp

what kind of dripedge? if it is just an L bend you have definately come up short, if it is a standard roofing gravel stop type edge you are a little short, the gravel edge extends more in its design. someone else want to jump in, i am not sure that the op will get this.

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DEAD_ONConst

I have always used a 1/4 overhang on the eaves and 1/2 or 3/4 on the gables. I don't think there really is a "correct overhang" so long as you have SOME overhang, more on the gables than at the eaves, mind you, but I would think 1/8 at the MINIMUM. Especially if you are using fiberglass or organic shingles as they tend to be thinner and more ply-able. If you are concerned, then I would recommend installing a 3" or 4" wide, starter strip at the desired overhang under your first row to reinforce the shingles. You won't see the difference from the ground, unless it is an A-frame with 4' walls!

Just my humble opinion...

MALCO.New.York

I did not KNOW that one COULD roof a three tab WITHOUT a reverse starter strip........................

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genecarp

one COULD, the question is SHOULD one , i had assumed, and maybe foolishly the the op HAD, if he did not, that would be BAD.

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DEAD_ONConst

This is true, but beats pulling the first row off to go back and reset the overhang! Not to mention faster and cheaper!

Besides, he mentioned Prestige, which are actually the "Prestique" line, just mispelled, which are architectural, NOT 3-tabbed! Which however are recommended for use with a starter, but not necessary if one has installed the requisite I&W at the eaves!

MALCO.New.York

Have ALWAYS put a three tab reverse starter on Architectural as well!

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MJW

Always use a starter and hang over 1/4 to 1/2" on eaves. 1/2" on rakes. 1/8" may shrink up on you and be short. If I&W is put on correctly over the drip edge you will have little worry about. I&W saves a lot of "part time roofer's" asswes.

BHI

i used elk starter strips, and justa L-bent aluminum drip that i bend myself..that is 3/4 past the facia. and then the starter is 1/16 past that and the shingle is a 1/16 past the starter...this is a 8/12

genecarp

how could a L bend be 3/4'' past the fascia? you would have had to have held it out over the fascia leaving a weird detail from underneath

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BHI

The trough covers the drip edge. i take a piece of flat stock aluminum and cut it down into 4" strips and then bend a 3/4 inch lip on it to the desired pitch. then nail it directly on the deck 3/4 inch out from the facia board. that way the eves trough can fit inbehind it still. then grace ice and water shield or tar paper over the drip edge then the elk starter strip goes on 1/8" past the drip edge then the shingle another 1/8" past the starter...i had a customer bitch that this was wrong due to wind driving rain up the roof past the 3' eves protection.

tinner666

A reversed shingle is wrong. It's sealer strip is 6" up the roof and so are the nails. The 3 tabs should be removed, and the nails shold be in the bottom inch of decking, and the sealer strip right there at the overhang.

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Frank Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.

thom

Tinner is correct of course. The initial subject was the overhang. Around here 3/4" - 1" is pretty standard. Most guys gauge it with a finger to the first joint.

PA woodbutcher

Why are you bending your own? @ 2.99 a 10' length I ain't got time for that chit. Really doesn't matter how deep yout eaves are. I think they were more concerned with the wind driving the rain under the shingles. Rain doesn't need to get to the house to ruin the roof deck

You the man! He used the Elk starter strip so as long as he put the tarred edge down he should be ok

1" seems to be quite long to me, especially in the NM sun. I would think that the shingle itself would develop a sag over time. I run a starter strip not only on the eaves, but also up the rake. Not only helps with supporting the shingle, but with the tar strip at the edge it really negates the wind driven rain thing for the most part. I also use my finger if its a short run and the roof fairly straght. Anything else I snap a line for my starter strip and leave a 5/8" overhang. Shingles do shrink over time and I hate to find a roof where they ran them flush 10 years ago and now have drip edge showing.

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Grumpy

3/4" past the otuer edge, if that's the fascia or drip edge, it should be 3/4" past.

Should have read the installation instructions BEFORE you did the roof.

You may have to remove the lower 3' of roof, which is 6-7 rows and then add about an extra 1/8" of exposure to each row. This will give you a 3/4" overhang past the drip egde. You're also going to want to put down a new piece of ice shield, or at least caulk allt he old nails holes in the old ice shield. This may also void the manufacturer's warranty for having too much exposure on that first 6 rows.

Grumpy

There is a correct overhang which varies on manufacturer, but 3/4"-1" at all edges is pretty typical.

Consider gettting the master shingle applicator manual from Certainteed.

shanekw1

When I started out roofing I was taught to use my finger to the first joint for gauging the overhang, and to run starter at the eave as well as up the rake.

I found that using a finger only works if the fascia is straight, so now i snap a line and give 3/4" past the drip edge.

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jaros bros.

When all else fails...........READ THE DIRECTIONS! I can't tell you how many people have been installing shingles wrong just because "they've always done it that way," or "that's the way the crew I worked with did it." I believe all the packages that I've read have stated 1/4 to 3/8. Too much will cause the shingle to curl and not enough will allow the water to run back to the soffit via the drip edge.
Here's a good question. How many of you just reverse the 3 tab and run it as a starter? Kind of like the thread where some are overcutting stair stringers. Doing so moves the tar strip up the roof further and doesn't seal the bottom of the first row of shingles.

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Josh Jaros www.jarosbros.com Remodeling in The Woodlands, Texas

J-Peffer

I use 3/4 at the rakes, and I snap a line. I measure from the peak down when i snap it too. I just like to start strait at the bottom, so it ends strait at the top.

I put my starter up the rakes AND gable ends. 3/8" is what I use on the over hang on the gables. CertainTeed actually recommends puting the high performance starter up the gables now also. Raises the wind speed rating of a landmark to 110mph