Peel And Stick On Residential Roof?

66 Shelby

Hi guys-

I'm a hardwood guy doing a major reno on my own house and have a roofing question. My roofer has reccomended using peel and stick on some of the lower-sloped areas. This house is all hip and valleys, sloped from 3-5/12, with 1x6's for decking. Searching the web, this looks like a good product, however, I still have some questions -

1) How long has this product been around (meaning how proven)
2) Does it replace felt and if so, why don't I cover the whole roof?
3) Any differences on the brands?

Cost isn't the issue, I just don't want it to leak! lol!

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

SLSTech

I will ask the obvious question - peel & stick what - Ice & Water membrane, the rolled roofing variant, stickers????

Next is where are you located - because it makes a huge difference in codes & general best practices

Third - pictures of the car are required with a name like that

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mikec

http://www2.polyglass.com/jsps/linee...00000030&cat=R

Check out this stuff. I've used it before with good results. It's a 2 layer system. First the base sheet then the cover.

macatawacab

I don't know about peel and stick other than the Grace snow shield which is an awesome product but not designed for UV exposure.

Why not a glue down EPDM 45 or 60mil. IMO, Carlisle and Firestone are the best. Felt, hot mop, everything else does not compare to EPDM.

On my own house it is 60mil Carlisle. Last a lifetime.

66 Shelby

I live outside of Atlanta. GA. The product he is talking about is made by Sarnafil. It's a commercial product that comes in a 6 1/2' wide roll. I don't know what all these other products are, just curious about using this on my own house. Seems like a great idea, but I wanted some input from the pros, as the stuff is pretty expensive.

As for the car - It's a 66 Shelby Mustang, blue/white stripes, all stock.

66 Shelby

One other thing - he is going over it with asphalt shingles

Tom M

Doesn't GAF Liberty have a peel and stick system? Awhile back I used a BANKOR as well, that required a liquid primer before attachment.

This more cost efficent but there is still only a 10 year warranty. A 3-5 pitch I would ice shield the deck then double cover felt and finish with a 4 inch exposure regular asphalt shingle. 20-25 year life span.

Tom M

http://www.sarnafilus.com/index/roof...d-stick_rs.htm

Why so industrial? Why cover it with asphalt? Are you mistaken the products?

66 Shelby

I think his thought process is this - 17 years ago, I bought this house and it had a new (6 month old) roof on it. The first time it rained hard, it leaked in several places, mainly in the valleys where 2 different pitches came together. I tore it all off and re-roofed, using a LOT of 30# felt and roll roof before top layer of shingle. No leaks yet, but I'm putting over 100k into the remodel, so I want some peace of mind about the roof. My roofer does a lot of commercial work, and suggested I use this particular peel and stick product. I don't know one from the other, so I'm just wanting some other ideas/advice from some REAL pros. God knows I'm no roofing genius! Besides, now I have more time for more important things - like breaking up concrete (LOL!!!)

genecarp

This product is not an underlayment. use reg ice and water shield, it is made to be nailed through, it seals itself around the puncture, i dont know if this product does (sarna).

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apehangeralfy

I can not recommend sarnafil as I have no experience with that product but the use of an approved "peel-n-seal" such as Tamko T/W plus, Protecto wrap, Carlisle W/P 100 or something equivalent that has Fl product approval will work for you in Atlanta. The cost of the material is just about off-set by the reduced labor.

I'm not sure about there but here with using a peel-n-stick product and making sure the decking is brought up to specs. you can qualify for an insurance reduction...

Teetorbilt

I never heard of your product but I can vouch for the Grace product.

A friend of mine was building a waterfront restaurant and had it dried in with GIWS. It was in ground zero when hurricanes Frances and Jeanne hit within weeks of each other and no leaks.

Yes, I did my entire house with it. I lost a lot of shingles and some felt during those storms and had to re-roof. I went with metal instead of shingles, you may want to contact your insurance co. about discounts for metal. In my case the metal will pay for the price difference in about another 5 yrs. It has a 50 yr. warrty, will probably last longer than that and adds to the resale value should I ever decide to sell.

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Vince_B

The product your roofer is proposing, http://www.sarnafilus.com/peel-and-stick_rs wouldn't be appropriate for that application. It's not designed to have shingles installed on top of it.
As already mentioned, ice and water shield should be installed on the 3/12 pitch. If there are any 3/12 to 5/12 transitions make sure your roofer also goes up the transition a bit with the ice and water shield.

Ed the Roofer

This might actually be a first for me, without checking out the links that others posted, but I have Never heard of a residential sloped roof application material that is peel and stick, manufactured by Sarnafil.

If it was my own house, I would cover the entire 3/12 sections with the higher end Grace Ice and Water Shield, not the thinner version, nor the alternative brands from other manufacturers, just the top of the line Grace product. Then I would shingle right over it.

As also stated previously, extend the Grace Ice and Water Shield up past any transition points in contact with the 5/12 pitch portions of the roof by a minimum of 3 feet.

I also use it for any roof top penetrations, around the curbs of any skylights, and also from the wood decking surface up any vertical walls that come into play.

Depending on where you are located, I might even suggest more than 3 feet in some locations, if you live in a snow susceptible area.

Proper continuous Intake and Exhaust Ventilation is necessary for the longevity of the roofing shingles life cycle. If you are unsure about the amount or types of ventilation you need, just ask additional questions and post some exterior view elevation photos of your home.

Now, for the most important question of all.....



















Where the heck are those photos of that car?



Ed



.

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RandyB1986

My advice would be first re-deck your house and deep 6 the planks. Either lay new OSB/plywood over the existing planks (MAKING SURE TO HIT ON RAFTERS) or tear off planks and install new deck.

Now that you have a new surface to work with, and cost is not a factor....I would buy either Grace Vycor or Grace Select, Vycor is a 1 square roll for $100+ and Select is just as good 2 Square roll that is around $70. It is 3' wide rolls that you remove backing and stick to decking. Cover entire roof with this product. Any places where your roof comes into a wall, run the Grace up the wall and flash properly then install shingles of your choice.....it will never leak!!

Patrick

24gauge standing seam galvalume metal roofing would be my choice. Also gets ya a $1500 tax credit

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

BULLHART

Hey Neighbor,

This is a good product, but this isn,t the right application for a residential underlayment. Its not intended to be riddled with a bajillion nails. If you want something upgraded, use a typical Ice and Water shield product. We dont need I&W here, but if the roofer wants to do it so be it. Ice and water shield is an SBS formulation that will soften and seal around any penetrations. The Sarnifil SA membrane is a great membrane, but its meant to be an external layer, and doesnt have the capacity to seal around the nails (think plastic).

Mike Meyering

I have used Peel and Seal for years- 10 years later it is performing fine. A 25 year roofer recommended it to me, and I am completely satisfied. I applied my directly to a new 3/4" plywood roof- I have some reservation applying it to a typical 1/2"plywood roof.
Mike

Gilby

Well all I do is commercial work and I would put either Duro-Last or some sore of tpo material on it. That would eliminate the use of the peel and stick. Why pay for two roofs when all you need is one. It does not make sense to have to pay for it twice. Unless you want the shingle look to match the rest of the house then I can understand.

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STEVOMORRIS

What is the slope and what is the coldest temp where the project is