Notching Corbels For A Rain Gutter

CJ Handyman

We recently were asked to bid on notching some corbels to accept a rain gutter. Has anyone out there done this before? What tools/saws did you use? Is this even a smart thing to do?

We were told this would be for a 4 inch gutter.

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neolitic

Chopping up those rafter tails would be a crime IMO.
Would they be happy with some kind of diverters at the entries?

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CJ Handyman

I agree with you. However they want this done on the back side of the house around a portion of the patio.

reveivl

First, those are not corbells. Cutting those things would indeed be a crime. How about getting some custom gutters built that tuck up under the tile, run down the rafter tails then come up vertically to catch the water? This would leave the visuals mostly intact and get the water out of the way.

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CJ Handyman

reveivl, Do you have any pictures of a gutter system like that, or somewhere I could find pictures or diagrams? This is in a fairly pricey neighborhood and they would probably be willing to consider some alternative.

tinner666

Picture an 'L' shaped piece of copper 12" by 3" or 12" by 2". 20oz copper. I would probably solder some 1/4" to 1/2" rigid copper pipe inside, at the bend, to support the 'gutter'. Otherwise, it would sag between the rafters.

Not sure of the detail below the tile. Metal might have to be turned up for the thickness of the 'decking', or whatever is under the tile, then re-bent to go under the tile.

Just plan on removing 2 courses of tile and cleating the 'gutter' in place. On the tails, a 5"x2" piece of 32oz copper can be attached to top of the rafter. Then, when the gutter is laid in place, bend the 2x5 piece up and over the 2" part of the 'L' shaped gutter and squeeze it in place. Just like cleating a standing seam roof.

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Frank Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.

neolitic

Frank --
I'm remembering an old house we worked on
(Thankfully not on roof or gutters).
They had "diverters" similar to your post
at the entries, but instead of spouts
there were copper or bronze chains at each end.]
Do you know the detail to attach those?
For the life, I can't remember what that looked like.
Never saw it in a toad strangler,
but in a normal rain it was really cool,
almost mesmerizing watching the water follow the chain.

About the OP, couldn't he turn up another 90º @ the deck
and screw/attach there?
Looks to be 2X deck, and if there is no snow/ice issue....
'Course once again we don't know where he is.

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Slyfox

I agree with the mentioning of using a deverter rather than gutter/spouting.
Take sheet of Galv- Allum- Copper "what ever" and alowwing for an 6" to 8" nailing flange which would be nailed into the roof deck "remove one maybe two courses of tile" with the flange stopping roughly 2" to 3" beyond the eave "Roof Deck - Not Rafter Tails" than a 90 degree bend upward going roughly 3" to 4" high and than a 30 degree bend back toward the roof ending with a 1" to 2" double bent hym for strength.
Funny shaped L with a hym for support.

After nailing the Flange to the roof deck i would put additional protection there such as roof cement, ice guard, organic felt or something.

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Ed the Roofer

Regarding the chain water falls, there are some good links in this thread.
http://www.nachi.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23057

Ed

neolitic

Thanks for the "URL"
and the pun
Nothing like chain links!

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Ed the Roofer

I didn't even realize I made a funny!!!

Ed

A W Smith

thats what happens when you try to use southwestern desert architecture in a rain climate.

zooming in on that picture theres something not quite right about that roof. I haven't seen too many clay barrel tile roofs but I have never seen one laid up like that.



is that a clay tire re-roof?
HAHAh .
just kidding.

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Al Smith
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neolitic

The starter (at least) isn't right.
There should be some "upside down" ones in there
if I remember right.
But I would pass anyway if I couldn't
come up with a solution that didn't involve
getting into that tile.
Can't see any good to come from that.

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A W Smith

The upside down ones are supposed to run all the way up the roof. Not just the starter. I see lots and lots of mortar where there should be none.

http://www.bobvila.com/BVTV/HomeAgai...0322-01-0.html

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Al Smith
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neolitic

Starter is the only one I can see though
Mortar is pretty standard southwestern look.
Not on the glazed tile (Greene & Greene) Craftsman style.

No matter, wouldn't touch that tile
with a 10' pole and welder's gloves!

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CJ Handyman

This is in Chandler, south east of Phoenix, Az. I didn't pay close attention to the way the tiles were set as I am not a roofer and wouldn't know how to remove them to set up guttering as has been described.

While we don't get a lot of rain in this area I have seen some storms come through that would come down heavy enough that you would get wet while standing on your patio, even if you were 6-8 feet away from the eaves.

Slyfox

What about a canopy type roof fastened to the wall under the overhang?
Could purchase the retractable ones like you see on the sides of campers, they sale them in some pretty decent styles now a day.
http://www.shadesdirect.co.nz/produc...ogue/index.htm

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fogbutt

bad tile chioce