Need Feedback On This Roofing Product

dougchips

http://www.dciproducts.com/html/smartvent.htm

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dougchips

Forgot to post why..... I have a client that has a finished attic that gets very hot. They have no room for soffit vents and their attic windows are so high that there is no space left for vents on the gable ends. Would a product like this and ridge vents work?

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Tom M

I looks like it will work as long as the rafter cavitys are not stuffed to the gills with insulation. Im sure you already know this but have you looked into fascia vent same idea but may be easier to acomplish on existing. http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/20564.pdf

Grumpy

A friend of mine did this though I told him not to, and he installed it with gutter and now he has nothing but problems. He said in the winter time it backs up and he's not sure it's working at all in the summer because he's gotten multiple complaints from this customer.

We do custom fascia vent. I am sure if you search this forum you will find a lengthy explination of how we install it, but it basically satrts with first cutting the fascia, blocking it out, installing something like rolled ridge vent between the blocks, and installing a new fascia over the blocks. Obviously this wille ffect roofing exposures, and it is suggested that the new fascia be clad so you can hide most of the ridge vent from the bottom. When done right, it looks excellent and functions great.

I have also seem some products made of molded PVC which kind of do what I described above and can be used in combination with gutter without risk of backup.

Ed the Roofer

DougChips,

Do a search on "Smart Vent" both here at CT and over on DIY and you will find alot of information already written about this product and the various options available to produce similar results.

I absolutely love the functionability of the Fresh Air Intake that the Smart Vent product offers. There is a recently introduced "knock-off" product manufactured by cor-a-vent, but the rated NFVA is around 6 sq in per foot versus the DCI Smart Vent rating of 9 square inches per lineal foot.

I have been using this product specifically for over 5 years with no remorse and with substantial positive end user results testified by the customers.

I am just adding the intake ventilation photos to my digital photo archive and could post mor send you some in progress photos.

For homes with limited intake or less than adequate exhaust ventilation, this type of product is the way to go. The ventilation theoristsm explain that the intake ventilation aspect is significantly more important to the total air flowage concept than the exhaust ventilation is. So, if you have to lean heavier towards one type of ventilation versus the other, the ideal ratio would be 60 % total for the intake ventilation and 40 % for the attic exhaust ventilation.

Ed

Ed the Roofer

I just read the other posts. I have had absolutely ZERO problems related to using this product.

I have installed it along the eave edge and also in a mid-roof application.

I have even installed it on a very minimal 3 1/2 / 12 pitch roof and it has served well for about 4 years now and we live in the midwest with snow conditions.

Here is a link to a vented fascia board product, unless you wanted to use the cor-a-vent as a spacer behind the actual wooden fascia board.

http://www.permachoice.com/Fascia1pagegraphic.pdf

Ed

dougchips

Thanks for the answers, I will have my roofing sub look into the links. I got the original link from JLC and a little bell went off it my head that it might help with the intake issues.

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Ed the Roofer

DougChips,

If there are any obstacles in the path from the eave to the ridge, special procedures must be done to allow for the proper cross-ventilation in the trapped rafter bay compartments.

See the last page of the following link and they point out a skylight in the way, but you can use the same information to relate to a dormer or chimney in the path of the air-flow just as well.

See page 6 of the Air Vent Link.

Ed

http://www.airvent.com/pdf/literatur...s_HipRoofs.pdf

dougchips

OOPS, I never did that on my own house, any long term issues?

Ed the Roofer

Whats done is done.

It is only cost efficient when you are doing a tear-off and doing the new roof.

You need horizontal air movement when the vertical path is blocked. I can not say how efficient the vertical movement would be, but common sense dictates that any movement would be better than no movement at all.

Ed