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Old 08-20-2007, 05:11 AM   #1
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metal roof to sky light flashing?

Can anyone give me ideas on how I can flash around a Velux sky light?
I am putting metal roofing over shingles with strapping every 24in.
Can I do this with copper or are there any kits available.

The skylight was put in low,so I may have to raise it to be above the metal roofing.
Thanks

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Old 08-20-2007, 06:37 AM   #2
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http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...2&file=593&s=0
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:21 PM   #3
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nice tinmenship

Thanks Tinner
I looked at every photo in your album. Even the last one. I expected something grand at the end and you came through!
I am using steel lap rib type roofing. The 29 ga. has 3/4" ribs every 16" and is put on with self tapping screws with neoprene washers.

I did a standing seem on a log cabin and it had two shed dormers above the attached porch roof, and a large chimney and pipes all within 35'. I did it alone,and the owner said I was a contortionist by the way I used my body against the steel and dormers to lock it while not falling or denting the material.
Anyway I did get some ideas of how I may seal around the sky lights from your album.
Thanks for the virtual tour.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:30 PM   #4
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5 layers got to go on this old Post and Beam

Hello all
I got another question.
Any advice on removal of shingles faster than a shovel?
I have made a wide chisel with v groves cut into it. That works but I was wondering if anyone used a power tool or such?

Big job ahead on this old cape style post and beam. The timber frame was cut by hand.
The hand hewed perlins look real good after about 100 years and maybe up to 6 layers of shingles on er
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:46 PM   #5
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I use a Shin-Dig. Look through these for any other ideas you need. A mixed bag.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...&file=4434&s=0
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:25 PM   #6
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bending the steel

Tinner
You have helped already,and that is nice work you do.
Can I simply bend my steel up around the sky light (where the original flashing is) and just use a good sealant or some type of adhesive to make my own flashed design?
In other words, can I bend and flatten the steel and then maybe use that black butyl caulk called monkey **** as a compressed seal? Or can I add copper to steel to make it up?
Thanks for the advice on the shin-dig too.

You know something else, you photos open with large images and come up fast even with my dial up.
How do you do that? Other sites have photos, but I never seen them open so large and fast as yours.
Looked like some real nice work around your pipes.
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:06 PM   #7
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I use a Sony FD camera. Each pic is 480x640 I think.

Roof hatch;http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/ima...eel Hatch1.JPG I bent the panels up to fit the skylights too. They go over the front apron ends. THe only caulk is in the corners, put there before the side panels were forced in place. Cleats hold them in place. Look at the top edge of this panel to see 'back-cleats' holding the panel where I want it. http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/ima...98/Rewrap1.JPG
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:07 PM   #8
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Don't mix metals.
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:17 PM   #9
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Without being sure of what you're asking, look at these pics. DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE TECHNIQUES!!!!! http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/sho...3&file=606&s=0
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:39 PM   #10
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Here, the right side is ready for it's side panel. The left side panel is in, caulked only at the corner. Caulk not visible. Panel extends below the penetration corner to keep water from it. NEVER cut them close. If you do, you rely on the caulk, not the metal.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/ima...el Chimney.JPG
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Last edited by tinner666; 08-21-2007 at 06:46 AM.
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:26 PM   #11
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bend and extend

[quote=tinner666;278328](Here, the right side is ready for it's side panel. The left side panel is in, caulked only at the corner. Caulk not visible. Panel extends below the penetration corner to keep water from it. NEVER cut them close. If you do, you rely on the caulk, not the metal.)


Nice work, I am thinking I can use another piece of roofing on top of the sky light, but under the upper sheet to bend and use as flashing at the top of the window. I ordered the upper sheet to stop at the top of the sky light window, and the lower to start just under the sky light window.
Do you think I can do this?
I would insert a section of steel roofing up under the upper part of the skylight and the bend it into a flashed piece over the window head and seal.
The same with the lower part, except of course this would go over the lower sheet. Maybe 15 inches or so, just to be safe.

You said do not use the systems in the photos, but I think on image 17, I could not see a problem with that seal system. I may be wrong.
Thanks so much for this.
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:56 PM   #12
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#17 was leaking like a seive. Feel free to try it though.
Not sure what you're saying. I wish I had some pics of the steel I've done at skylite tops. I try to lap 12" , if that helps. NEVER have exposed caulk. It will seperate from one panel or the other and wick water badly.
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:59 PM   #13
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On this one, I was working with what was there and correcting a mess. Came out good. I looked at it the other day. No problems.

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Old 08-21-2007, 09:06 PM   #14
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Not sure what you meant by sealing the Sl either. Look real closely here. At each top corner are 2 cleats ready to hold the SL counter-flashing in place.
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:08 PM   #15
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:52 PM   #16
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That is a tin mans copper "wet dream".

It sure does look nice.

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Old 08-23-2007, 12:11 AM   #17
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Old 08-23-2007, 06:26 AM   #18
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Christ! I'm gonna get a swelled head. I ain't that good. Just average.
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:26 PM   #19
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on this one?

Tinner sorry I was gone for a day working.

I do see now what you mean about 17, and yes I plan to overlap at least 10 inches or more.

I agree with everyone. You get a metal for your work.(pun intended)
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:29 PM   #20
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no links

hi tinner
Why are your links gone, when I look at your posts?
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