low nails - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

bmaurice · 09-28-2009, 03:52 PM

ok i need some feedback. for a 40 square house i might shoot 1 or 2 nails just a tad low, if the next shingle covers some of it i just use a nail punch to sink it like 1/16th then ill geocell it. **** just typing i realized i would probably save more time tearing it off. ha! anyway i got bitched out today because of that. i was inspecting the finshed job and found a nail barly exposed, so i doctored it up. is that hack work really dont see how it would ever leak or anyone would see it from the ground. there for i never seen it as a problem.

neolitic · 09-28-2009, 03:57 PM

Why not just leave all of them
like that then?
Any thoughts?

bmaurice · 09-28-2009, 04:19 PM

leave all of them like what? and all of them you mean one.

im not sure if you being sarcastic and think im stupid by thinking that it was ok or telling me i shouldnt even touch them?

anyhow from now on im replacing the shingle thats whats the boss wants im not going to argue.

CookeCarpentry · 09-28-2009, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmaurice

really dont see how it would ever leak or anyone would see it from the ground. there for i never seen it as a problem.

Is this the same thought process as "it looks good from my house"?

Slyfox · 09-28-2009, 04:37 PM

Would it leak, probably not.
Would it be seen from the ground, most likely not.
Is it scabbish/hackish, I believe it is.

Do I think your a hack because you did that, no.
Gotta learn as you go the same as we all do.

bmaurice · 09-28-2009, 04:38 PM

not exactly, one better, "not good, but good enough".
ok, joking a side it looks good from their house. the only way you would see it if you got up their and walked over it.

not_right · 09-28-2009, 04:43 PM

i dont understand why this is an issue.... if you are installing 40 sqs and out of the entire job only 1 or 2 low nails... what is the issue with ripping the shingle up and doing it over? not sure why you would ask, seriously.

bmaurice · 09-28-2009, 04:59 PM

their is no issue. but now that i wrote down my thoughts i just realized your right. i should just take the shingle out. i just really get heated when my workmanship is questioned im still young so i still know everything hahaha! not to mention i take pride in my work its the proffesion i chose and im not going anywhere.

TaitINC · 09-28-2009, 05:08 PM

I won't repeat what anyone else said, but I agree.
On another note, what kind of geocel are you using. FWI - Silicone based products don't adhere to shingles.

mattp · 09-28-2009, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaitINC

I won't repeat what anyone else said, but I agree.
On another note, what kind of geocel are you using. FWI - Silicone based products don't adhere to shingles.

I believe Pro-Flex by Geocile does

bmaurice · 09-28-2009, 05:29 PM

geocell 2300 and proflex. depends on what i have im pretty sure niether are silicone based and both adhere well to asphalt and flashings. is their better stuff out their?

PA woodbutcher · 09-28-2009, 06:02 PM

Anyone that does any work for me is told before they start....I am the only one qualified to say good enough. Shingles are cheap. A call back to replace a shingle in the middle of a 20 square roof will not be.

TaitINC · 09-28-2009, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmaurice

geocell 2300 and proflex. depends on what i have im pretty sure niether are silicone based and both adhere well to asphalt and flashings. is their better stuff out their?

I don't have any data to say one is better than the other, but we have used roof cement for a long time and haven't had any issues. Here is a link to what we use.

http://www.gardner-gibson.com/linedetails.aspx?id=16

bmaurice · 09-28-2009, 08:33 PM

i have no problem with roof cement either, i just really hate when the last roofers didnt know how to flash chimneys and dormers so they just used 4 cans of blackjack and called it a day. that stuff is a pain to clean up.

Aoscar · 09-29-2009, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmaurice

geocell 2300 and proflex. depends on what i have im pretty sure niether are silicone based and both adhere well to asphalt and flashings. is their better stuff out their?

Solar seal *imo* is tops, not so spaghetti, stringy like and tools better

Grumpy · 09-30-2009, 07:02 AM

If there is an occassional shiner, especially on a big roof, and the shiner is half covered by the course above and the shiner is caulked; it is forgiveable. If the shiner is 3" low that'd gotta be fixed. I too prefer solar seal or vulkem, depending on the situation. I dislike geocel.

neolitic · 09-30-2009, 09:10 AM

I like PL Polyurethane® Roof & Flashing Sealant.
http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products....ashing-Sealant

Grumpy · 09-30-2009, 10:42 AM

I've seen the PL polyurethane product for concrete and construction adhesive but never for roofing. I'm not syaing it doesn't exist but I've never seen it. I do like the PL products I have worked with in the past and would be interested in trying their roof sealant.

neolitic · 09-30-2009, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy

I've seen the PL polyurethane product for concrete and construction adhesive but never for roofing. I'm not syaing it doesn't exist but I've never seen it. I do like the PL products I have worked with in the past and would be interested in trying their roof sealant.

It exists (click the link)

I think Lowes and Menards both
carry it, as well as any of the real
yards that have the PL line.

Grumpy · 09-30-2009, 02:21 PM

Like I aid, never seen it. Lowes doesn't carry it unless it's in an aisle other than roofing and I don't think menards has it around here. Must be a local thing. I've also never seen it at ABC or Shelter.