Drip Edge Tips

J-Peffer

I'm doing a new construction roof for a local home builder who builds million+ homes. He seems pretty detailed and expects good work which I'm happy to do for him, and prefer a home builder that does as opposed to one who does not.

He was very specific about the drip edge turning out perfect.

I always work back to front of corse. I nip the corners of the outer lip at a 45 then on each peice before putting them together to keep the seem as flush as possible.

On the ends, I cut the edge square and bend the bottom portion (that goes above the facia) around the corner.

Any other tips on making drip edge turn out top notch?

Oh, 2 things he is doing that I normally don't do. He wants lines snapped because he's had people nail down un-strait shingles....I've not snapped a line other than ones to ensure we come out even on each side of a dormer in many years. He also wants the drip edge on the rake put over the ice and water gaurd....I've always put the drip under the ice and water.

MALCO.New.York

I kinda like that I & W under the Drip. Lap it over the edge 1 inch. Extra edge protection!

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J-Peffer

His concern with it being over the top on the rake side was the contraction in the winter could cause wrinkles in the drip edge as it contracts. I've never seen it, but I suppose it could happen.

I always run it OVER the drip on the rake side, and UNDER on the gable ends. Just seems like it would function better keeping the water on top of the drip edge.

MALCO.New.York

Have the client sign a "to customer spec" agreement to remove you from liability IF the case may arise. Be specific concerning the techniques and application modifications they request.

__________________
Something to One may be Nothing to another!

Ultimate Wisdom---------
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1967 chevell

I put the drip edge on top of the ice and water and the shingle starter on top of the drip edge.
The thought was to protect all of the plywood by the H2O paper gluing itself down to the edge, then the shingle starter would glue down over top of the dripedge and H20 paper. This way the whole bottom row would be sealed up. Please correct me if I am wrong.

2ndGen

First off, all your practices are good already.

One tip I have, judge the work you're doing. Since it's new work, it should be easy to lay it straight.

I personally never lay the first piece flush against the substrate. I always give it some play just in case the edge (not the drip edging, but the actual house) decides to get squirrly on me. That way, I can adjust it as I move along.

I don't know what type of guttering situation you will have, but once the shingles and gutters are on (if any), all your edging work disappears anyway. If there will be no gutters, then the drip edging will be your reference point. You'll have to hide all the problems the edge of the decking might have.

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"I've been up on the roof. I know what those guys go through.
My whole life has been about making that profession respectable."
Ken Hendricks
www.SolutionsRoofing.com

DavidC

First I got to say I have renewed appreciation for you guys doing this every day. For the first time in a few years we were stripping a roof today. I used to do it every day myself but have found a preference for interior work. I did forget how hard it is.

Our method has always been underlayments over the drip at the eaves and under on the rake. I was taught that way and assumed it was a water shedding thing, always down and out.

We also snap lines for every fourth course horizontal on all shingles. We would do the same for vertical if the shingle was 3 tab, whenever we had to go around a dormer or back down a valley for T Loks. No verticals for Architects. Does make a nice neat looking roof.

Good Luck
Dave

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2ndGen

Aluminum lengths under 40' doesn't contract noticably.

I like to run my I&W "on" the edging and use my knife angled back toward the roof to leave a nice clean cut running it along the edging, using it as a guide. It almost looks "fused" on when I'm done.

For the rakes, I generally place the edging "on" the underlayment because it leaves such a nice clean unabtrusive look and if you have any water getting in on a rake side, there are bigger problems than the placement of eding.

Most times, the rake of a roof (over older homes) is just not flat enough, so I use the edging as a "new" ledge for the shingles to lay upon. This eliminates all the little imperfections. It might not be apparent when you lay them on in colder weather, but when they settle in warm weather, it makes all the difference.

On the eaves, this is easily hidden by gutters and since that is most likely where one would have water infiltration if any, that's where I want my I&W over the edging. Plus, there is the extra support of the undercourse.

__________________
"I've been up on the roof. I know what those guys go through.
My whole life has been about making that profession respectable."
Ken Hendricks
www.SolutionsRoofing.com

2ndGen

Dave...

Snapping lines used to be an issue for me of pride for me.

"I don't need to snap lines!"

And for the most, that's true...when you're working "alone". One can keep his roof courses in line alone easily or with others that you've trained.

Today, I snap lines. Every 5 courses or so. Snapping lines is like using a nail gun or knee pads or gloves. It's just a matter of working faster, with less thought, neater.

__________________
"I've been up on the roof. I know what those guys go through.
My whole life has been about making that profession respectable."
Ken Hendricks
www.SolutionsRoofing.com

J-Peffer

Sorry I mist typed, I do mean I put the Ice and Water over the drip...on the eves not the rake.

odellconstruct

ice an water on top at the bottom and drip on top on the rakes , drip i do the same as you do bend the side drip 1 in tuck behind other drip , i always over hang the starter 1 inch , snapping a line 11 inch from drip thus hiding any drip edge , are the shingles 3 tabs or arct ? i would do the lines if the guy pointed that out , most likely hell show up during the install ,just take your time , the lil bit of extra time worth the aggravation you could get later , good luck

ice and water on top at soffit to protect facia from water damage ,and drip on top to protect soffit area and plywood along the rakes

you can always tell him what shingle manufacture recomends , it may void any manufacture warrenties if done different

dougger222

I lay the drip edge over the Winterguard on the eaves and over the Roofer Sellect on the rakes.

The idea of having the ice and water shield on as much wood as possible makes the most sense to me. I run the ice and water on the top leading outer edge of the trim board. With all the decking covered with ice and water and the trim board(s) Certainteed says it's good to go.

There shouldn't be any water running under the shingles on top of the underlayments with Landmarks.

MJW

With metal soffit and fascia Certaineed says to put I&W on top of the drip edge.

Bill

Ice and water OVER the drip mould. This seals everything to the drip moulding.

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RooferJim

I&W first, then drip edge.

dougger222

Actually in all reality Certainteed says you can do it three ways with a warranty.

#1 W&I over the drip edge on the eave.
#2 W&I first down over the facia board on the eave (when gutters are used).
#3 W&I first all the way down covering the top of the facia board out to the front edge, then drip on top. Certainteed recommends this method when ice is a possibility in the gutters.

That is what the MSA 7th addition says. A sider friend I know just passed the MSA 8 book and got his Wizard polo, I'll ask him.

I have never had a problem with any inspectors on how I install the underlayments.

MJW

MSA eighth edition is online and I have it in front of me.
Under the drip with wood fascias.
On the drip edge with metal.

I have always had to put the drip edge on and put the I&W over it to keep the inspector happy.

Lately they even asked for installation instructions. I think they are going to pass the buck onto the manufacturer. That way they cover their butts.