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Old 03-22-2009, 09:08 AM   #21
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loneframer, I hear ya. Aluminum just doesn't work for every climate. It bends, shrinks, and fades so bad. I try to stick with steel, but when odd colors are chosen you have no choice.

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Old 03-22-2009, 09:09 AM   #22
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Genecarp - I agree with butting the drip edge can cause it to buckle with expansion/contraction. I over lap mine 1". A little nudge with a hammer will form them together then nail. I don't nail through both pieces just close to the joint. I step the drip edge up the up the rake just like the shingles. I have never had installing this way. Also, I use the heavy duty drip edge...not the crap sold at box stores.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:15 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by wellbuilthome View Post
I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
Run an 8" strip under the drip, then a full coarse over top. It seems like overkill, but the bases are covered for either side of the argument. Or you could ice shield under then paper overtop of the drip.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:24 AM   #24
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ill sometimes use this technique in high wind areas or if my facia is large
i bend a starter pc i nail that to the edge of the facia over the soffit then i make basicaly a j shape in my facia and snap it in to the starter pc
I've done that with F-channel soffit receiver, the fascia trim slides on from a seam in the F-channel and tucks behind the drip-edge. When the're in place they only require 1 nail to keep them centered. This is very labor intensive so I dont do it very often.
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Old 03-22-2009, 11:40 AM   #25
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PA,
If I'm understanding what your saying, how does that stop water in an ice dam situation?
Not sure if your understanding....Never had a problem and we've had a lot if ice dams this year. I'm still a minimum of 3' up the roof. If the soffits are over a foot deep I throw an additional level of I&W.

If I had Mickey's mad computer skill I could draw it
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:11 PM   #26
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I like to bend my own drip-edge to match my trim coil, then the trim coil gets tucked securely behind the drip-edge. I hem the return on the bottom and predrill and nail up from the bottom with an aluminum asbestos siding nail. No visible face nails this way, never had a blowoff either.
Around here, normal procedure is to bend the fascia wrap in an "L" shape, with the bottom wrapping over (under) the ends of the vinyl soffit. You'd nail that the same way?

Seems like that'd be a fussy PITA.
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Old 03-22-2009, 01:23 PM   #27
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nailing underneath keeps the aluminum tite to the wood,hemming helps keep the ripples out and makes the edge stronger
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:25 PM   #28
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Around here, normal procedure is to bend the fascia wrap in an "L" shape, with the bottom wrapping over (under) the ends of the vinyl soffit. You'd nail that the same way?

Seems like that'd be a fussy PITA.
I've been doing it that way the past couple of years and have liked the results. Less waves and it does seem to hold...no blow off's here either
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:42 PM   #29
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Less waves and it does seem to hold...no blow off's here either
I was taught to face nail, maybe 3 nails in 10'. Never had any blow-offs, but yes, it's tricky to do without waves. Downright impossible if you're putting it up in freezing weather and come back to see it in high summer. <shudder>

I'll give it a shot on the next one.
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:37 PM   #30
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these are pics of the facia i lock into a bottom starter not only do i use fewer nails it give the look of the soffit being up and behind the facia
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drip-edge-img_1150.jpg   drip-edge-img_1158.jpg   drip-edge-img_1156.jpg  
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:41 PM   #31
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Around here, normal procedure is to bend the fascia wrap in an "L" shape, with the bottom wrapping over (under) the ends of the vinyl soffit. You'd nail that the same way?

Seems like that'd be a fussy PITA.
I do it that way every time, pre bent or fascia I made. I tuck it up under the drip edge and then use colored screws up through the bottom to hold it. Almost never buckles, even when done in the cold.

Edit: as for the OP, I always use drip edge.
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:50 PM   #32
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these are pics of the facia i lock into a bottom starter not only do i use fewer nails it give the look of the soffit being up and behind the facia
I like that look. The corner of that porch in the last pic is what I'm more used to, and it's a bit on the boring side. I'm just not clear though, on just how you bent the wrap to do that. Is it kind of a "J" shape with a "ledge" coming off the short leg of the J and covering the end of the soffit?
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:53 PM   #33
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Almost never buckles, even when done in the cold.
Makes sense. In the past, I've talked people into waiting weeks for warmer weather. This could be downright liberating!

OTOH, that would mean setting ladders up in the snow.
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:31 PM   #34
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sorry tin didnt mean to bore you this is the front its a smallish house lake side house
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:38 PM   #35
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sorry tin didnt mean to bore you this is the front its a smallish house lake side house
No Tom, I'm not bored at all. I meant MY kind of wrap is boring.

I was just trying to figure out how you wrapped those much more interesting rakes.
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Old 03-22-2009, 05:58 PM   #36
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Tom that looks like one of my houses, minus the J channel around the windows... The VSI actually says that you should never face nail rake or facia, your supposed to drill a 1/8" hole every 16" for a trim nail in the bottom lip... We gennerally face nail, but I like Toms suggestion
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:35 PM   #37
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We gennerally face nail, but I like Toms suggestion
I do too, but I'm still having trouble getting my brain wrapped around it. I take it that the second set of pics shows the result of the detail in the first set. But I'm not just not seeing how the soffit ends tie into that.

[Edit] Duh. It all just snapped into place. I'm definitely going to give this a shot! Thanks, Tom!

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Old 03-22-2009, 07:14 PM   #38
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:23 PM   #39
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TOM, Aint dat a BIATCH siding them chimneys
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:26 PM   #40
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From the old man

I started roofing 47 years ago in Cambridge Mass. We used #3 cedar shingles for drip edge back then. On metal I always overlap the joints. Why wouldn't You!
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