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03-21-2009, 05:41 PM
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#1
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Pro
Trade:
building for 30 years. new homes , additions , lite dirt work ,
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 374
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drip edge ?
Dose every one use drip edge under there roofing ?
Ive worked in NJ for 30 years and we never used a aluminum drip edge on the perimeter of a shingled roof . In NY every one seems to use the drip edge ? I think i lost a job today because of the drip edge issue.
Why use a drip edge. Why not . any insight . Thanks John
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03-21-2009, 05:55 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,851
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i like to see it when it installed well but your right here in NJ you dont see it often,what you do see is a kickout where the aluminium facia meets the roof shingle,a water trap if you ask me
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03-21-2009, 06:01 PM
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#3
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Capra aegagrus
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,886
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It's pretty universal in this area. One distinct advantage is that it makes wrapping the fascia a lot more forgiving.
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03-21-2009, 06:04 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
LI,NY designer, new homes, renovation work, concre
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,153
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It looks like a neater, tighter job, we do it sometimes, dont really think there is a practical reason for it . G
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03-21-2009, 06:05 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
LI,NY designer, new homes, renovation work, concre
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,153
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void
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Last edited by genecarp; 03-21-2009 at 06:24 PM.
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03-21-2009, 06:41 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
roofing,siding,gutters,windows
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: VIRGINIA
Posts: 231
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Almost nobody uses it here. Go 40 miles away and everybody uses it. I say use it to make yourself look different. When your competition doesn't spec it, ask the prospect what other corners they will cut.
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03-21-2009, 07:03 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 125
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We use it here all the time...at least the people I have worked around. Actually GAF recommends it. From their website:
The Importance of Drip Edge
The drip edge is critical to provide a finished look and to add waterproofing
Drips edges must be corrosion resistant
Drips edges should be applied applied to edge along eaves
On the rakes, drip edges are applied on top of underlayment
Drip edges should be nailed as needed to hold into place
Last edited by 1mancrew; 03-21-2009 at 10:28 PM.
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03-21-2009, 09:14 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Posts: 151
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Only saw it not used on one job. Never not installed it. Great for creating a clean appearance and protecting the fascia and roof sheathing from water damage.
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03-21-2009, 11:40 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
building for 30 years. new homes , additions , lite dirt work ,
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 374
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I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
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03-22-2009, 12:00 AM
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#10
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Capra aegagrus
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wellbuilthome
I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
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You're supposed to use ice & water on the rakes also. Logic says that it should go on top of the drip edge. Either way, that stuff makes a major production out of a simple re-roof.
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03-22-2009, 06:17 AM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northeast, Pa
Posts: 938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wellbuilthome
I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
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My standard is to apply the eave drip edge, lay the I&W, sticking it to the drip edge about 1/2" -3/4" up from the bottom. Dry in the rest of the roof and then lay the drip edge up the rakes.
Not sure how to get by your inspectors unless you want to invite them up to inspect. Once adhered to the drip edge, it's waterproof and the drip edge will kick any water out away from the facia. Once they see how your doing it I would think they would also see the "light".
__________________
'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' - Ronald Reagan
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03-22-2009, 06:28 AM
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#12
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Member
Trade:
remodeling
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north east ohio
Posts: 78
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PA,
If I'm understanding what your saying, how does that stop water in an ice dam situation?
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03-22-2009, 07:29 AM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
LI,NY designer, new homes, renovation work, concre
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,153
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ONE caution on drip edge, when installing, do not butt the sections tight, leave 1/4'' space between the pieces, i have installed them tight only to have them swell and cause a bump to form at the roof edge at each seam, had to go up and relieve each butt joint. G
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03-22-2009, 07:33 AM
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#14
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Pro
Trade:
RESIDENTIAL REMODELING, BUILDER
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: northern maine
Posts: 199
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I have never done a roof without it! To be honest I have never seen a roof without it either. Standard here in Maine
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03-22-2009, 08:46 AM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor, Roofing, siding, windows
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 1,089
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Use steel drip edge and you won't have any problems. Put it on, then adhere the I&W to it. Lapping I&W into the gutter and such just doesn't work. I've seen it before and it just rots away and never sticks. Put the steel drip edge on and the I&W on it.
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03-22-2009, 08:48 AM
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#16
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor, Roofing, siding, windows
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 1,089
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When using metal, have your inspector look up the instructions for I&W. It will clearly state to apply the drip edge first.
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03-22-2009, 08:52 AM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,851
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actually there is a technique where you wrap the i&w around the facia apply the edge then use a 12'' strip of i&w ontop of the edge
Ed or Tinner could explain it better
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03-22-2009, 08:53 AM
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#18
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,585
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I like to bend my own drip-edge to match my trim coil, then the trim coil gets tucked securely behind the drip-edge. I hem the return on the bottom and predrill and nail up from the bottom with an aluminum asbestos siding nail. No visible face nails this way, never had a blowoff either.
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
Last edited by loneframer; 08-15-2009 at 05:57 AM.
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03-22-2009, 09:06 AM
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#19
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor, Roofing, siding, windows
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 1,089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomstruble
actually there is a technique where you wrap the i&w around the facia apply the edge then use a 12'' strip of i&w ontop of the edge
Ed or Tinner could explain it better
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Sure, you can do that, and it probably works. It's just that it makes the fascia and/or gutters harder to replace because it is stuck to it.
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03-22-2009, 09:08 AM
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#20
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Pro
Trade:
siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 1,851
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ill sometimes use this technique in high wind areas or if my facia is large
i bend a starter pc i nail that to the edge of the facia over the soffit then i make basicaly a j shape in my facia and snap it in to the starter pc
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