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Old 03-21-2009, 05:41 PM   #1
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drip edge ?

Dose every one use drip edge under there roofing ?
Ive worked in NJ for 30 years and we never used a aluminum drip edge on the perimeter of a shingled roof . In NY every one seems to use the drip edge ? I think i lost a job today because of the drip edge issue.
Why use a drip edge. Why not . any insight . Thanks John

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Old 03-21-2009, 05:55 PM   #2
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i like to see it when it installed well but your right here in NJ you dont see it often,what you do see is a kickout where the aluminium facia meets the roof shingle,a water trap if you ask me
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:01 PM   #3
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It's pretty universal in this area. One distinct advantage is that it makes wrapping the fascia a lot more forgiving.
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:04 PM   #4
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It looks like a neater, tighter job, we do it sometimes, dont really think there is a practical reason for it . G
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:05 PM   #5
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:41 PM   #6
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Almost nobody uses it here. Go 40 miles away and everybody uses it. I say use it to make yourself look different. When your competition doesn't spec it, ask the prospect what other corners they will cut.
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:03 PM   #7
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We use it here all the time...at least the people I have worked around. Actually GAF recommends it. From their website:

The Importance of Drip Edge

The drip edge is critical to provide a finished look and to add waterproofing


Drips edges must be corrosion resistant

Drips edges should be applied applied to edge along eaves

On the rakes, drip edges are applied on top of underlayment

Drip edges should be nailed as needed to hold into place
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:14 PM   #8
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Only saw it not used on one job. Never not installed it. Great for creating a clean appearance and protecting the fascia and roof sheathing from water damage.
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:40 PM   #9
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I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:00 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by wellbuilthome View Post
I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
You're supposed to use ice & water on the rakes also. Logic says that it should go on top of the drip edge. Either way, that stuff makes a major production out of a simple re-roof.
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:17 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by wellbuilthome View Post
I would use it on the rakes but what do we do with it on the bottom over the ice shield under the ice shield ? The inspectors in NJ want to see the Ice shield stuck to the fascia . John
My standard is to apply the eave drip edge, lay the I&W, sticking it to the drip edge about 1/2" -3/4" up from the bottom. Dry in the rest of the roof and then lay the drip edge up the rakes.

Not sure how to get by your inspectors unless you want to invite them up to inspect. Once adhered to the drip edge, it's waterproof and the drip edge will kick any water out away from the facia. Once they see how your doing it I would think they would also see the "light".
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:28 AM   #12
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If I'm understanding what your saying, how does that stop water in an ice dam situation?
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:29 AM   #13
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ONE caution on drip edge, when installing, do not butt the sections tight, leave 1/4'' space between the pieces, i have installed them tight only to have them swell and cause a bump to form at the roof edge at each seam, had to go up and relieve each butt joint. G
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:33 AM   #14
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I have never done a roof without it! To be honest I have never seen a roof without it either. Standard here in Maine
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:46 AM   #15
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Use steel drip edge and you won't have any problems. Put it on, then adhere the I&W to it. Lapping I&W into the gutter and such just doesn't work. I've seen it before and it just rots away and never sticks. Put the steel drip edge on and the I&W on it.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:48 AM   #16
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When using metal, have your inspector look up the instructions for I&W. It will clearly state to apply the drip edge first.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:52 AM   #17
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actually there is a technique where you wrap the i&w around the facia apply the edge then use a 12'' strip of i&w ontop of the edge

Ed or Tinner could explain it better
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:53 AM   #18
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I like to bend my own drip-edge to match my trim coil, then the trim coil gets tucked securely behind the drip-edge. I hem the return on the bottom and predrill and nail up from the bottom with an aluminum asbestos siding nail. No visible face nails this way, never had a blowoff either.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by tomstruble View Post
actually there is a technique where you wrap the i&w around the facia apply the edge then use a 12'' strip of i&w ontop of the edge

Ed or Tinner could explain it better

Sure, you can do that, and it probably works. It's just that it makes the fascia and/or gutters harder to replace because it is stuck to it.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:08 AM   #20
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ill sometimes use this technique in high wind areas or if my facia is large
i bend a starter pc i nail that to the edge of the facia over the soffit then i make basicaly a j shape in my facia and snap it in to the starter pc
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