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#1 |
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Pro
Trade: HandyWOMAN
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 115
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Drip Edge
First off I don't do roofing and know very little about it so that is why I have this question. I was asked by a co. to take a look at some punch out work on some jobs for them on some houses that got new roofs. One of them needed the drip edge installed.
I am under impression that the drip edge goes on b/4 the roof and b/4 the gutters. Or if they just get a new roof the drip edge goes on b/4 the roof. If it can be done after the new roofing is on then can somebody expain to me how it is done and what might be a fair rate to chg per LF. Thanks, Pat
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Pat Harris A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC "Why call a handyman when you can call A HandyWOMAN? |
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#2 |
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Pro
Trade: manager of excavation division
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: danbury,ct.
Posts: 3,660
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Re: Drip Edge
It can be done after the fact but what a pain in the kiester. You have to lift up the shingles and nail the drip edge on while holding the shingles up.
Not the way to do it.
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___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________ Joe |
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#3 |
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Pro
Trade: HandyWOMAN
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 115
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Re: Drip Edge
thanks....just like i thought...PITA. and it should have been done wks ago when we had 90 deg days.
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Pat Harris A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC "Why call a handyman when you can call A HandyWOMAN? |
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#4 |
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Bah Humbug!
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Re: Drip Edge
Depends on location. Drip edge is typically used at gables and rakes while a different type of flashing, gutter apron, is used when a gutter is to be installed. A common problem I see is when a drip edge is installed in combination with a gutter system. There is almost always problems when this occurs.
The face of the drip edge is 1 1/2" exposure which usually isn't enough to cover the fascia wood and tuck into the gutter. A gutter apron usually has a 2+" face and can usually easily cover the wood fascia and tuck into the gutter, however sometimes we have to custom bend some gutter apron with a larger face because the 2" isn't enough. As a rule we always install the gutter flashing when installing the gutter, and that is after the roof is complete. It's really not that hard to do with just a little bit of practice, though it's really easy to get frustrated if you don't have that practice. What to charge? T&M ofcoarse. There is no rate per foot on little crap like this. How long it will take you depends on you. Is the roof walkable or will all work be done by ladder? Will you do it alone or with help? Do you have to remove the gutter brackets and refasten them after installing the gutter? I keep assuming we are talking about a gutter apron... We could be talking about a drip edge at the gable/rake. If this is the case then the metal MUST be installed before the shingles or you will be removing alot of roofing nails. It's best of the metal is put on and then the roof shingled over it. I wouldn't even want to imagine the excessive ammount of "sex on the roof" with a prybar. (We use the term sex on the roof as a way to say "alot of F**king around".) So wich is it, gutter apron or rake drip edge? |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: HandyWOMAN
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 115
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Re: Drip Edge
It's drip edge.
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Pat Harris A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC "Why call a handyman when you can call A HandyWOMAN? |
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#6 |
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Bah Humbug!
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Re: Drip Edge
Ok so assuming you mean it is at the rakes/gables it's going to be a PIA. I'd estimate high on something like this. A 2 story gable, 15' rafter... I'd say would take me 4 hours per 15 foot run. Materials are minimal... 2 pieces of drip edge, 2 tubes of caulk to reseal shingles, nails... about $25, plus labor, plus markup.
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