Cutting Steel Roofing-what Do Ya'll Use

IHI

Going to look a 2 roofs next week and customers want steel. These are dream roofs in that they are simple gable designs with no valleys so I'll be able to order all the roofing to exact length so no cutting other than stacks will be needed.

BUT for future reference how are you guys cutting the steel-especially in valley's where the gilletine wont work. Manufacturers all recommend snips/shears/or nibblers for cold cutting so paint does not blister/flake and give a place for rust to start. I know of nobody around here I've seen installing that does this cut according to manufactuer. They all load up the quickie saw with an absraive blade and go to town hacking away-most times the material is on the roof itself when they're cutting so guess where all the sparks go

So looking to see how others get it done. Feel free to PM me should you feel you method might not be "internetally accepted" by folks.

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maj

I have an electric shear that I use exclusively for ripping vinyl siding. Works great for that. I tried it on steel panels, but it is extremely hard to "jump" the ribs when going diagonally for valley cuts. I had a fairly complex roof a couple of years back. So I bought a pneumatic nibbler. It was an el'cheapo, since I didn't really see any future uses for it. That worked OK on the ribs, but required alot of finesse to get good lines. I tried various types of blades for the circular saw, but they all tend to "burn" the finish, hence causing rust problems down the road. I went back to my good 'ol faithful Wiss offset snips. Time consuming, but it gives me the best finish and most control.

I hope you get some good alternative solutions here, because I'm still searching for the ideal cutting tool for steel.

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joasis

I use a nibbler exclusively for cutting steel, unless you are cutting the long plane, then I use Kett shears. The last nibbler I bought is a Hitachi...about $320 from Dynamic Fasteners, and dies are about $28 a set, punch and die. We never use abrasives, turned backwards carbides, or the metal saw blades becoming popular now due to the noise and the fact that nibbling will "burnish" the cut line, and blades really expose it for rust.

One word about nibblers. I used to buy from pawn shops, etc...but with nibblers...and they last forever...you want a tool that doesn't kill you to buy punches and dies for. My Makita is a great one, but $140 bucks for dies...Milwaukee is about the same..so Hitachi it is now. Don't be a cheapy one from a cheap tool seller either cause it will dull out after 4 or 5 cuts...we get one hipped and valleyed roof out of a set of dies (punch and die), and then time to change.

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fettycan

check out Klean Kutter

maj

Could you post a link fettycan.... Only thing I found was paint strippers.

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The views expressed in this post are merely opinions of named poster and in no way shall be deemed meaningful by members of the herd. By no means does anything posted by named poster mean a damn thing for anyone else partaking in this thread.

Ken@K&R

I just use these shears http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

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fettycan

www.kleenkutter.com I think I spelled it wrong the first time

AaronB.

KK is the way to go. It is worth the investment, IMO.

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joasis

I didn't realize until I look at the web page, KleenKutter is made in my state, and I have seen one. The manufacturer that I buy primarily buy from has one on the floor they have been trying. I think it is kind of pricey, but whatever works....I will still use the nibbler, but may give this a second look...the one I saw for demo used a Skil 77...and it may be just the thing.

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AaronB.

burr free cuts over any profile, angled cuts, mitre cuts, and no burnishing of the paint with their blades. If you do a lot of metal, that thing would surely pay for itself in short order.

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http://www.roseroofing.net/
Seamless Industrial and Commercial Roofing Systems, Residential Repair. For Those That Demand Quality!
Free roof inspections within 12 miles of our locale.