Built In Gutter Repair Question

Home Serve

On a job today replacing windows and doing other work I noticed a problem on a older house I would like to try and help them with (young new home owners).
The house has been remodeled by a true hack and sold to these folks. The roof is new but the built in gutters were not repaired. They are leaking back into the soffit and down the walls and out the siding. The ice of course has made it worse. When we removed one window in the area and it was soaked from the situation.
I'd like to help them deal with the issue if possible. We do have a bending brake and I could picture possibly using it to flash the interior of them but would wonder how to bond the pieces together in a waterproof fashion and so forth.
It is a small house, probably about 60' of built in gutter.
Got some ideas for me?
Thanks,
Dave C

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Patrick

Ive seen them lined with copper and the seams soldered

neolitic

We did a "temporary" re-line with aluminum,
just a tight 12" lap slathered brush on geo-cel between for the whole 12".
There was @ ½" fall in 10',
but that was 10 years ago, and they are still work.

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Patrick

Yea Geocel is great stuff, expecially the brush on, Another great use for it is under patio doors.

Home Serve

I remember using geo-cel many years ago now. I'm thinking you can get it in a can to brush on. It is good quality and I believe it would work if we take our time and are careful. There aren't any corners so that should help. The ice will be off the roof tomorrow so I'll take a closer look at it.
Thanks for the help all who posted.
Dave C

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neolitic

To be sure I was clear,
what we did was form 10' sections of coil into a squared off "U",
to make a liner.
Just didn't make any fancy seams--simple laps.
Geo-cel was just to "glue" them together.

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Home Serve

Yeah, I thats what I figured you were talking about and that was how I was going to do it also. I think it will work well.
Thanks,
Dave C

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dennis

"Got some ideas for me?"

1. Call a qualified roofer with experience soldering and installing copper built-in gutters.

or

2. Find the holes in the existing gutter, clean them well, apply geocel.

Then, call a qualified roofer with experience ...

Grumpy

We do quite a bit of these repairs and repalcements. First you can reline them, but understand in doing so the new liner will be more shallow, and I have seen downspouts back up and into the space between the original and the new liner.

Second, you can try to identify the problem areas, clean, prime and patch with EPDM roof membrane which seems to work well, but if one spot is bad the rest soon will be, and this only a temporary repair.

If it were my house, I would tear back the first few rows of shingles, remove the existing and install brand new. I'd use copper or galvanized because both can be soldered, and each piece can be no longer than 10' so there will be alot of solder joints.

If you are relining or replacing, it really takes a lot of thought to get the pitch just right. It's not hard, just have to think and rethink before you bend each piece. If you don't you will either have standing water within the gutter or a really jacked up looking new system.

BTW I hate Geocel. It might stick and last, I don't know, but I prefer Vulkem.

Also I don't warrant patch repairs. Reason ebing although MY patch will last, more leaks will pop up and rather than convince the owner it's a new leak; I just tell them this will work for a short while and then you will need to replace it.

One other thing I have bid, but not done, was to rivet metal over any holes, then reline the entire gutter with solvent or urethane (NOT ACRYLIC) based elastomeric. Again no warranty, although I couldn't see this gutter leaking any time soon.

neolitic

That's what we said....and why I'm so pleased and amazed that it lasted so long.

Hmmm.
First time I tried that I got 6 different gutter guys who had no clue about "dutch gutters".
Most couldn't even wrap their heads around the concept that the original was made of poplar.
Either wanted to cram 4" rolled ogee's in to replace 6",
or rip the facade down and make it shiny new!
The fun ones are when the leader is buried in the wall!

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Ed the Roofer

Another solution, which was slightly hinted at by Grumpy, is to line the exiting inlaid gutters with an elastomeric coating and a fibeglass or polyester reinforcement mesh with a bottom and top coat of the elatomeric. This needs to go under the shingles on the high side and over the shingles on the low side.

It has to be clean and dry for it to hold. On the lowere side, which should be going over the shingles, you can decoratively cap the elastomeric memberne with some color clad sheet metal.

Ed

Bone Saw

tell em to hire a roofer who does custom pole gutter work

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tinner666

Soldered copper or leaded copper in 2' lenghts, as specified for copper Built-in gutters. Hire a pro.

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Home Serve

I am as qualified roofer as these customers need to do a repair on their built in gutters. I simply know that like most other issues there are several different methods of repair.
These folks aren't lawyers with heavy checkbooks. If knew someone as you describe in #1 and could trust them to perform the repairs at a reasonable cost this might be an option. However, this simply is not case in this situation, if it was I would not have asked the original question.
As I described the problem originally, your answers don't do much for me.
Many of the other responses have offered some real answers to the issue.
Thanks guys,
Dave C

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Ed the Roofer

Rather than calling guttering contractors, I would suggest contacting a reputable sheet metal fabrication and installation shop, who have guys who know how to solder properly.

You will have better luck contacting them for the proper level of talent required.

Most gutter guys just know how to pump out seamless and hang them as fast as they can.

Ed

dennis

"Many of the other responses have offered some real answers to the issue."

I see 4 for doing it with copper, 1 option for epdm lining, 1 for aluminum smeared with geocel, 1 for coating and mesh. Not sure what bone saw meant.

Notice the terms, temporary, no warranty.

I agree, there are different methods of repair. And different repairs will last different periods of time. And cost different amounts of money.

I was just trying to give the best option. It's your job and you will do it the way you want.

My option #2 would allow for a low cost temporary repair while the home owners saved up the money for a permanent solution later. (if they actually saved and did the work instead of waiting till the window rotted out again)

Another option would be a PVC membrane liner. Costs less than copper but would do a better job than aluminum and sealant.


neolitic,
notice I didn't say " gutter guy". I think you would be hard pressed to find a "gutter guy" that could spell solder.

Home Serve

Thanks! Dennis I guess I just had one of them days, I thought you were just being a smart a**.
Dave C

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Ed the Roofer

Hey, I guess I spelled "solder" right.

Woo-Hoo!!!

Ed

Bone Saw

I meant to tell them to hire a roofer who does pole gutter work or dig up your seamers, tongs, irons and salamoniac and do the job right

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theroofinggod

we`ve lined them with copper, peel-n-seal,app,sbs,epdm,etc,and installed new drain sleeves with it,except for obvious holes the drain sleeve is usually where the leak

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