Zip System Sheathing, Anybody Using It?

crovello

The structural beams were made to order by a company in NY. I wonder if I should have made them myself. I ordered two beams, one 5.5"x5.5" with a radius of 7' and one 5.5"x11'5" with a radius of 11'. The two beams with shipping charges cost about 6k.


The roof sheathing is two layers of 3/8" plywood that is glued and screwed to rafters and blocking. I did a drawing on my laptop using AutoCad 2007 to layout the sizes of the pie shape pieces and it went together rather easily.


The soffit was custom made in my shop. It is 3/4" Azek. All the straight soffit material is 5.5" with a "v" groove down the center. I then milled some boards to 2.75" to make them easier to bend. I built a tunnel out of plywood and fired my propane heater into it to get the boards warm. This helped just enough so I could get the 84" radius bend on the upper roof and the lower 11' radius I bent without heat. Getting the boards to hold their shape at the joints proved to be the most difficult part.


I roofed the lower section this week and that was no picnic either. I would post a picture of that but it seems I can't post any more pictures in this post. Perhaps I will post another.

N.Schiffer

Awesome work, I had a feeling the roof was sheathed with two layers, only because I've built curved "skateboard" ramps and walls, and we used two layers of 3/8" also helped keep the curve smooth.

I bet the soffit was no easy task, but again nice work! Interesting look without fascia, but I like it.

Either post them in here or start another thread, I'd love to see the roof complete.

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KentWhitten

I think I speak for all of us......start a damn thread on that bad boy. That is some nice framing. You are right up our alley.

I, uhh, just want to let you know that if you ever get the urge to spend money on curved beams again, I'm right next door to you in Maine I did an addition that needed a curved beam and made my own. It's not hard. Depending on the circumstances though, you may need to get it engineered. I had a 20' beam, 3.5" x 12", 16' arc, cost me $300 tops.

I feel your pain on the roof shingles. I assume I did the same thing as you. I arced all the damn little pieces. Oh took me about 3 days to put a square on.

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L@EConstruction

Very nice work! I worked on 1 project with those round pointed roofs and I was sick of em. lol. Great pics and yes start another thread so we can see some more pics of that project.

Timuhler

If anyone is still interested, I shot a little video today showing the tape gun and J-rolling the tape. It is a very quick process.

+ YouTube Video

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crovello

I don't understand the j roller. There is a roller built into the dispenser. Why don't you roll it out with that?

Dave

Timuhler

2 reasons.

1) It is very hard to keep the tape straight and the directions want it centered on the seam no more than +/- 1/2".

2) It is extremely important to J-Roll it with 10-15lbs of pressure. Once that tape makes a bond with the panel, it isn't coming off. Whether I use a tape gun or not, I'm going to J-Roll it because it is on me to make sure it is installed correctly.

For me, the tape gun is just a fast way to install it, and the J-Roller w/pole is a fast and easy way to guarantee there are no air bubbles. You can see in the video what the rolling does to the tap. Their roller is specially designed as well with the ridges and it is night and day compared to the J-Roller we were using on the tape.

Does that make sense?

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nailkiller1

No drainage plane?
How do the windows get treated?
I am not understanding this system

sabontop09

Awesome photos---It's like **** for framers!!!!!

Timuhler

Did you look at their website? Here it is if you haven't http://www.zipsystem.com/

Essentially this system relies on the tape. The tape is incredible too. I was very skeptical of the system, but we tried it on a smaller home and I love it as a framer/sider.

I have no relationship with the manufacturer beyond getting a beanie w/logo and an Advantech hockey puck

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Tom Struble

i got a submatine key chain and ive never even used it

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FramingPro

about how much more is the wall sheathing compared to regular 7/16 OSB also could you use it as wall sheathing for a shed and paint it?

Rory Read

Some seriously impressive framing above. Maybe someday when I grow up...

But back to the zip stuff:

I have a roofer who puts down IKO ArmourGard Ice&Water Shield on every 3:12 roof he installs. Todd (Tmix roofing in PDX,OR) says: "I don't want to come back, ever." And that's under 30# felt.

Anyway, I priced the ArmourGard myself, and it came out at about $3.25/sq ft. As much as I love the idea of sheathing my roof and having it dried in, it sounds like the Zip stuff, after tape, is coming in a fair bit higher than plywood covered by an IKO AG type product (but what do I know about math; tell me if I am wrong).

Then I read all the comments about the cut ends, the wicking, and I think this sounds a bit like the reasons folks stay away from OSB roofs. When the chimney flashing leaks (I know it shouldn't, but stuff does happen.), would I rather have an unprotected plywood or osb cut end meeting the water?

5/8 cdx covered with modified bitumen is a pretty bomber assembly. If I wasn't such a lazy sos, I could get up there and roll out the IKO AG myself in half a day.

As it is, we all make a pretty serious effort to get the roof on right after framing in the winter, and we have all the time in the world in the summer.

I could say all the same stuff about walls, but I will harp about vapor barriers instead. The scientific consensus for my marine climate is that you do not install vapor barriers on both sides of a wall. You have to let at least one side breathe. So if I were to use something like Zip System instead of Tyvek, I would want to omit the polyethylene under my drywall, and to do that my code requires exterior insulation. Not a bad thing, but an added consideration.

All the photos in the thread do show some sharp work.