Window Header 2x6 Framing

Atlantex

I am new to the industry so I apologize as I realize this is likely a very basic question.

According to what I've been reading in framing and carpentry books headers should be built to the same thickness as the framing to be used. For example, when using 2x4 framing the header should be constructed with 2x_ lumber with 1 sheet of 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between to achieve a header thickness of 3.5" so that the header sits flush with both sides of the studs in the framed wall and the gypsum board can be attached to the header at both sides.

My question, then, is when you are using 2x6 framing, would you then construct the header from 3(2x_) lumber and two 1/2" sheets of plywood to achieve the 5.5" thickness of the 2x6 studs?

I.e.:
1(2x_) lumber
1/2" plywood
1(2x_) lumber
1/2" plywood
1(2x_) lumber

If not, what is the preferred method of constructing the header so that it sits flush with the edges of the studs on both sides? I realize that solutions exist such as 5.5" depth TJ-Insulated headers by Weyerhaeuser but I'd like to know how this is typically done without using proprietary products.

I apologize if I've been unclear or confusing. Any help is greatly appreciated.

ChrWright

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JOHN THE HANDYMAN

I always follow the same method,

I.e.:
1(2x_) lumber
1/2" plywood
1(2x_) lumber
1/2" plywood
1(2x_) lumber

but that is my opinion, we all know that line

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Atlantex

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the prompt replies.

Tom M

Header tables in code books are designed for capacity whether its 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. The extra plywood is just filler for sheetrock to grab. Granted adding glue and full size plywood will create far superior strength. You will actually gain head span in a 2 x6 cavity since you can use three supporting members but the fill can be plywood and sometimes lath or even nothing.

thom

The only way I've ever seen, assuming adequate capacity based on engineering is a pair of 2X's for the faces and block spacers ripped to 2-1/2" sandwiched between the 2X's. The cavity is then insulated.

Unless you need the structure, why add another 2X?

wink

i use the spacers also, and depending on the load, a 2x6 across the bottom, also the space in the wall for my header, and the size of the material my header is made of. and there are those, i am not one, that claim you don't really need one in a gable wall, i always use one in all my exterior wall openings, on interior walls i'll use 2x6 doubled, and for what it is worth that is just my two cents thank you for your time

KentWhitten

Everyone around here uses the triple with the ply sandwich. There's a dozen different ways to do it. I got to the point of nailing the 3-2x's together, then rip a 1" piece for the bottom so that sheetrock hits it and fill in the rest of the header with a 1" rigid insulation. Or just fill it in completely with 2 pieces of ply with the scrap laying around.

Or you can do 2-2x's, then the rigid, then one for the inside part of the wall.

What ends up happening with the spacer is that when you go to trim out your window, there's usually not much there to nail to on the underside, if it's a vinyl widow that is. Granted, you may leave enough nailing, but most never do.

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TempestV

usually around here, you see one of two ways- 2 2x10s nailed together, with a 2x6 or 2x4 running on the top and bottom, with everything flush on the outside. on exterior walls, the 2.5 inch cavity that is created on the inside is filled with insulation.

The other is a chunk of gluelamb that was sized to match the strength of the above style.

It all depends on the builder- gluelambs are more expensive, but you save on labor by not having to nail them up, and it allows for a taller opening.

reveivl

I do like tempest on this one, couple 2x's, 2x whatever underneath to catch the drywall, insulate on an exterior wall.

Why would you waste header material/time in a non-bearing (gable) wall?

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troubleseeker

In my neck of the woods, for many years , 2 x4 walls got the header material with a 1/2" plywood spacer as described previously, Thicker walls got the same thing with spacers ripped to the correct spacing for the thickness of the wall, I never saw anyone do triple pieces with two spacers. Now they just build a box beam with a top and bottom cap of whatever the wall stud material is. My theory is that this evolved from the quest for speed and less effort. It is more convenient to cut a couple of pieces of stud for the caps than to go get a piece of plywood, and rip pieces. The extra labor is costing the framer, the material is free as far as he is concerned. How many times have you gotten a call for 30 more 2x4's for knick knacks, only to go out and there are still 30 16 footers nailed in place that were the temporary wall braces that were no longer needed 10 days ago.

emersonhomes

Idk where you all are building but in my world we use 3x 4x 6x 8x or 12x stock for headers most times unless pick up and nothing is left we will make sandwiches. Ex. wall is 2x4 use a 4x header.....4x4, 6x4, 12x4 w/e. 2x6 wall....4x6 , 6x6 6x8 ect.

troubleseeker

[quote=emersonhomes;277969]Idk where you all are building but in my world we use 3x 4x 6x 8x or 12x stock for headers most times unless pick up and nothing is left we will make sandwiches. Ex. wall is 2x4 use a 4x header.....4x4, 6x4, 12x4 w/e. 2x6 wall....4x6 , 6x6 6x8 ect.[/quotInte

Interesting. Except in timber frame, I have not seen that used since platform framing replaced the old style baloon framing,and that took place before my beginning in the field, being only a mere babe of 56 years.

TimNJ

I insulate them too.

georgia dawg

I agree with Tempest. That's what we do mostly in my neck of the woods,too. The interior of this 4 piece header is really not considered structural and no filler is required by national codes. Insulation provides far greater benefit than other materials. If it gets real long, like a garage header, we'll just use a properly sized glulam.

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BobTHEfRaMeR

i like to use a 2x on the bottom of header laying flat. The drywall will be nailed at top plate and on the flat header block (runs from ks to ks). If desired header height then can not be obtained, u must pad header out to match thickness of wall. I don't add more header material i usually just use scrap, because of tight budgets on market homes.

Nail banger

Depending on the span I like to put insulation inbetween the 2x stock. LVL is king and I use that as much as possible

dlcj

we use 2x12s set flush on inside and out side with no spacer on all exterior walls and load bearing interior walls.On spans 6'-12' we do use 1/2" ply in between. Over 12' a lam beam or lvl is in order. 2x12s go all the way to top plate on 8' walls so no cripples are needed. 2x4s set the same way with cripples are fine on non bearing walls. We use rigid foam between 2x12s only when owner ask for it otherwise its up to the insulation contracter. We havent built 2x6 walls yet but i probably would build box beams like someone else said and lam beams on wide spans.

skyhook

Solid stock only, no sandwiches, no inspector problems.

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JustaFramer

Around here if they even let us get away with a built up header is 2x+2x+1/2" for 2x4 and 2x+2x+2x for 2x6 then to build out the header to a full 2x6 you can add a 2x6 to the bottom of the header or rip some 2x down to 1" or two layers of 1/2". There is also a specific nail pattern for nailing together.

Span depending if a 4x is called out it must be tripled up in 2x4 walls that won't work.

This is all dependent on the area of jurisdiction though.