Will This Work?

TimNJ

I don't know where you are but here in NJ if you use trusses the design of the truss you are using has to be sealed by the truss company and submitted with your plans before you can get a permit. If the garage was just built give the truss the company a call and ask for their load specs on your truss and then there is no guessing.

Amaccari

Tim's right. You need to check your truss rating and it looks like the trusses are built for a garage. (No access storage calculated where a truss is designed so that you may store a specific amount of weight in the truss cavity, furthermore the weight should be distributed among several trusses and in your case you are concentrating all the load on one point (the area where the winch is connected to the 2 x 6's) in the beam and the beam is transferring the load to 2 trusses.)
As a rule of thumb for every carpentry problem there can be several valid and solid answer.
One would be to install collar ties to the trusses where the uprights (Diagonal 2 x.s) tie in to the upper chord (The upper part of the truss to wich we apply the roof sheathing). Collar ties are members of wood (2 x 6 or bigger) that used in a stick built roof. Then use the same beam on top collar ties. The idea is to create smaller span by picking up bearing in a action/reaction manner. Thats why it is possible to use 2 x 4's in a situation where in the past we would of used 2 x10's or 12's. I hope I made sense I know how to do this but I'm not good at explaining. It would be nice to sketch something.
Goog luck

wreckless123

Is this kind of what you are talking about? (The Blue in the pic) Running from the upper cord, where the roofing is tied to, to the lower cord or rafters.. Is that was a collar is? Thanks, for any advise..

Amaccari

No. but as I said there is more than one solution to this problem. What you are suggesting should work. ( 1 2x4 nailed vertically from bottom chord of truss to peak or 2 2x 4's nailed diagonally from bottom chord to diagonals of truss). Try to reinforce 4 trusses. Anything more is overkill.

Amaccari

I looked closer at your picture and it appears that you are about 6 to 8' out from wall. What you are suggesting should work just fine.

wreckless123

Yea, I am 5 feet from the back wall... Thanks

Should I screw to the 2X6's or 2X4"s?

Amaccari

Do not use screws. Screws do not have any shear resistance (I think it's called resistance). Picture hitting a screw (On the side not the head) that has been driven half way into a piece of wood. It breaks off. Now hit a nail in the same manner it bends. Use nails (At least thats the way it was explained to me 15 years ago by an inspector). As for nailing int 2 x 6 or 2 x 4 I assume by 2 x 4 you are talking about the truss and by 2 x 6 you talking about the beam that is carrying the wench. You are trying to strengthen the truss therefore nail the 2 x 4's.
Hope this helps.

Tonkadad

I don't agree with that, screws have shear strength. If you are worried about it go with carriage bolts and liquid nails.

wreckless123

Awesome, thanks guys...

wreckless123

UPDATE:

Just wanted to put an update up of the finished setup. I put vertical 2X6 supports running from the lower cord to the upper cord of the rafters. Then I added straps, which should help distribute the weight over 5 points and not just everything on the winch. I then raise the ski enough to get the straps under it, then I lower 50% of its weight on the straps. Now I just need to copy this setup for the other ski and hang it right next to this one, park the boat underneath it and I am ready for winter..

Teetorbilt

By George, I think that you've got it! Check on it about once a month for deflection especially in the summer months when the heat and humidity are high just to be certain.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

wreckless123

Thanks, I will keep an eye in them. They should only be up there durring the Michigan winter months. Other then that, they should be floating on the lake!!

K2

Looks great Tim. Hope your feeling better. I'd keep an eye on the gang plates also.

noreast05

OK here we go ...........My eight year old was asking me why there was a jet ski hanging from the ceiling. I began to explain that this fellow was looking for room in his garage. And he said why doesn't he run a beam on the bottom side running the hole span so he can hang whatever he wants. I began to explain that he may not have the head room and then stopped right there. I relished the moment and told him I would pass on his imput.

Perhaps we eat sleep and sh*t this stuff so much we pass on to those around us without even knowing it.

wreckless123

I dont understand his idea, can you post up a rough sketch, I am always open to ideas.. Remember my boat is being backed under the skis..

noreast05

I won't go and wake him but what I think he was saying was may be the way he was use to seeing it done. We would run steal beam from one end to the other supported on both ends and then run our ceiling/ floor joist above that. But in your case there are trusses. He's not use to seeing them .......yet. I guess he's looking at it as the way we've done many. Your basically trying to support an equivlant of a second floor with your trusses, run a steal beam on the underside of your trusses and hang what you want, His two sense. Consult a structural engineer, just thought it was funny to hear my sons imput........ sometime we need to look outside the box.

What you have look great, the above would only be for future skies or other hanging items.

mighty anvil

noreast05, your son has a natural insight into the problem.

As I said on the DIY forum: "You don't have to load the roof trusses. Just add a beam diagonally just below the top plates. Two 2x10's should do it. Add some stud supports and tie the beam to the trusses for lateral stability."

It's cheap insurance because.....
The metal plate connectors of lightweight wood trusses are not designed as rotating pin connections or as rigid moment-resisting connections and therefore even small rotational forces (from excessive deflection) can cause the wood members to split and fail. Such a system is simply too delicate to take a heavy point load like the one proposed even if it is partially distributed. And it only compounds the rotational problem when rafter chord deflection is transfered directly downward to the bottom chord by adding a vertical member.

I suppose no one really cares but I thought noreast05 might want to pass it by his son.

K2

Mighty Anvil, Just for the sake of argument, (because i like to argue). Patented in the early 50's, wood trusses were only accepted in 1/2 the building depts 30 years later. My neighbor was a young engineer for Trus-wal corp in the early 60's and he told me the story of how he and other engineers loaded trailers with solid concrete blocks, trusses, rafters, hot dogs, and lemonaid, and set up parking lots of building departments, lumber yards, or where ever they could set up all over the western states. They would invite Building Officials, General Contractors, Architects, Builders, Lumber salesman and whoever else might listen. To try to make a long post shorter Hank says they went through alot of lemonaid and hot dogs befor he got one of the "cannots", "shouldnots", to say yes.<P>
In this part of the country it is not uncommon to do a home with 75 or more individually designed trusses and more than 150 pages of truss details. It is not possible to get through one of those projects without 2 or 3 field modifications. Modifications are designed by the engineers,(sometimes Hank) and inspected on the jobsite and sometimes a wet stamp is put on the mod.<P>
Hank is probably in his 80's, still stamps for truswal 4 hours a day, still climbs roof and does consulting the other 4 hour a day. Has most of the calculations in his head, (can't remember anybody's name), AND... still loves a "can't be done" job. (as do I).<P>
In my opinion "CAN'T BE DONE" should be left in the last century.<P>
I apologize for the long winded post.

mighty anvil

Rob, I don't mind arguing with you, although I'm not sure what there is to argue about.

I didn't say anything about "can't be done". As you said yourself, trusses can be modified if reviewed by an engineer. This is a major concentrated load on trusses not designed to carry such loads, especially the resulting deflection, and it has not, to my knowledge, been reviewed by an engineer. But I'm not suggesting that it be engineered — What I'm saying is it's not worth even a slight risk of failure during a heavy snow storm this winter when a simple diagonal beam from bearing wall to bearing wall would carry the load with no risk and probably less material and labor — certainly less design time.

But it's done now so the question is moot.