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09-30-2005, 09:38 PM
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#1
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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Will this work?
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09-30-2005, 10:04 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,466
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I'm really sorry but I see minimal construction here, just making code. I can't see the entire span, but it looks to be marginal for a 2X6.
Despite what most people think, you are not 'spreading the load' by crossing the crossties. The majority of the load is on the two adjacent trusses and they are barely holding the roof up.
Build a shed for the jetskis.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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09-30-2005, 10:06 PM
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#3
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Custom Builder
Trade:
From dirt to ridge vent
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: South Central Illinois
Posts: 4,405
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Good plan strapping the hoist to the rat runners, but now brace the runner to the rafter cord, then set some fixed chains or straps so you can let the pressure off the hoist and just use the hoist for up and down.:Thumbs:
Bob
__________________
Bob
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09-30-2005, 10:40 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Licensed Colorado electrician, licensed B-1 GC
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,580
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Looks like a truss. Should have a dead load rating on the bottom cord of at least 10 lbs. That should be your second number if they are stamped. So spreading that load over 45 square ft should not be too tough. Do like glass said and add some braces. Triangles make a truss. If you consider what you have a bottom cord and glass's diagonals and add a top cord you should have a truss and distribute the weight. Make sure any diagonals are nailed good and not cracking. Use plwood gussets if your nailing is shakey. They need to hold about as good a the metal gussets that are holding your truss together. > Or you could reinforce one or two trusses to hold the weight by adding braces and probably doubling the bottom cord and adding more wall studs at the bearing point. Docs from a PE for that fix would be available around here for under $100<P>
I've been trying to get some pics on. How did you do that?
Last edited by K2; 10-01-2005 at 09:26 PM.
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09-30-2005, 10:45 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,466
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Hunh? I'm on. Bob, you have to remember regional terminology. You had me going for a minute. I've worked wit Maineiacs, Brits and Aussies. All have their own terms for tools and procedures.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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10-01-2005, 08:28 PM
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#6
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking and I am going to run 2X4's vertical from what you are calling the bottom coard to the top coard, right next to the 2X6's. I am right next to the diagnal braces that come from the factory. Any opinions?
If you need help with pics, I can host and show you how to post them:
Email:
coffeytim2000@yahoo.com
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10-01-2005, 08:39 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,466
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Without securing the ends of your makeshift 'beam', most of the force is going to be applied to only 2 of the trusses. They appear to be 2 X 6 and 24" oc. Given the span, you are walking on thin ice.
This kind of stuff always amazes me. Sometimes it will last for years and other times it will collapse within months.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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10-01-2005, 09:51 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
Work
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 262
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cut a hole in one gable. make a strongback out of two lvls, slide it in,and hang away.
edit: by strongback, i mean something that will span from gable end to gable end...$$$
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10-01-2005, 10:46 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
Licensed Colorado electrician, licensed B-1 GC
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,580
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I read the post more carefully and see you are talking about 900 lbs. in that area. I think my truss engineer could easily design reinforcement to handle the 900 but since I am not an engineer I'm going to agree with Teetor, (which i very rearly do), and say "No". I'm certain the metal gussets are undersized and that would be the first place for rienforcement.
Thanks for the offer to help with the pics. I'm going to try again tonight and I'll let you know how I make out. Rob.
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10-04-2005, 06:27 PM
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#10
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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I just talked to a freind of a friend who is a framer. He is coming over to do a little reinforcing. We will see what he does..
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10-04-2005, 08:20 PM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,174
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I would stay away from "altering" the truss. The truss is a specific design and alteration to that design can change the dynamics of the truss. The truss company should be able to give you load calculations for their truss.
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10-06-2005, 04:42 PM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
architect
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 158
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I've seen this question on so many forums I'm getting a little tired of it.
Last edited by mighty anvil; 10-10-2005 at 06:11 PM.
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10-07-2005, 11:41 AM
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#13
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by mighty anvil
I've seen this question on so many forums I'm getting a little tired of it.
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Then stop reading them.. You dont think you ever ask questions that have been asked before??
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10-07-2005, 12:31 PM
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#14
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Pro
Trade:
architect
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by wreckless123
Then stop reading them.. You dont think you ever ask questions that have been asked before?? 
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You ask the same question in multiple forums and think no one has the right to get tired of it? You should show more gratitude and courtesy for those that have tried to help you.
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10-07-2005, 12:50 PM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
Licensed Colorado electrician, licensed B-1 GC
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,580
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I thought it was a great question and I will be better prepared if it comes up again. Digging out the old books.
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10-07-2005, 04:06 PM
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#16
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by mighty anvil
You ask the same question in multiple forums and think no one has the right to get tired of it? You should show more gratitude and courtesy for those that have tried to help you.
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I posted it in the DIY forum and here, you need to relax before you explode my friend. Thats two posts on two differnt forums, sounds like someone needs to get out a little more. Just for you, I will be posting up more pics after I get it done..
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10-07-2005, 05:46 PM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
architect
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 158
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You need to toughen up and try thank you more often. Mightyanvil out.
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10-07-2005, 08:02 PM
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#18
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by mighty anvil
You need to toughen up and try thank you more often. Mightyanvil out.
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Look at my second post on this thread... Try reading before speaking...
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10-07-2005, 08:46 PM
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#19
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,466
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Let's take another tack, what is live load for joists? What is max load for a 2'X2' area? Not even close.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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10-08-2005, 08:45 AM
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#20
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 16
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Teetorbilt
Let's take another tack, what is live load for joists? What is max load for a 2'X2' area? Not even close.
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After talking to you guys, I have realized that there is more here then meets the eye. As soon and I am able to get out of bed in a few days, I have a contractor coming over to help me out.. I will post up what he comes up with..
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