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09-24-2009, 02:00 PM
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#1
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Member
Trade:
Spec GC
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lake Placid, NY
Posts: 98
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What's your preferred methods for exposed rafter tails?
What do you do when you want to see the deck underside as v-groove planking when you look up?
How about getting enough thickness of deck for shingle nails not to poke through? I cannot count on the roofer to remember to bring, and actually use, short nails.
Saw the rafters? Sister on falsies, dropped? Build up at the edge, then create a taper with wood shingles on top of the deck above the lip?
Tell us something we don't know.
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09-24-2009, 02:07 PM
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#2
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UpNorth
What do you do when you want to see the deck underside as v-groove planking when you look up?
How about getting enough thickness of deck for shingle nails not to poke through? I cannot count on the roofer to remember to bring, and actually use, short nails.
Saw the rafters? Sister on falsies, dropped? Build up at the edge, then create a taper with wood shingles on top of the deck above the lip?
Tell us something we don't know.
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When I do a screen porch with exposed deck,
I lay the carsiding on the rafters then deck
with 5/8" so that roofing nails don't penetrate.
Haven't had anyone ask for open soffits
on their house.
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(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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09-24-2009, 02:16 PM
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#3
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The Duke
Trade:
Framing, Custom Carpentry, Architectural Design
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,783
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We used 1/2" ccx plugged and you'd get an occasional nail poke through. Whoever hires the roofer is responsible for telling the roofer to use shorter nails or angle them slightly.
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and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined,
one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
~Henry David Thoreau
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09-24-2009, 02:25 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Build, Remodel, Roofing, Siding etc...
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Moorestown, NJ
Posts: 261
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We do the same as above. Install whatever it is that will be exposed, then install 1/2" CDX staggered seam over that. We still use 1" roofing nails to ensure no penetrations are made through on the interior side. It has to be a joint effort on both parties, the carpenter/framer and the roofers. If you are worried about them using nails that are too long, buy a box of one inch roofers for them, and make sure you are there waiting for them when they do it to advise them on this.
Spencer
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09-24-2009, 04:01 PM
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#5
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Member
Trade:
Spec GC
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lake Placid, NY
Posts: 98
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We have only done it using false tails sistered alongside either rafters or trusses, with the tails dropped about 5/8" from plane to accommodate the either square or v-groove t&g pine planking. We go 5/8 for all roof sheathing, and that goes over, so our nail base is 1-1/4.
About like shown here in this pic sequence (not mine, we don't paint much here, all stain). http://imageevent.com/meadowview/job...sedraftertails
I was hoping to learn something new.
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09-24-2009, 04:10 PM
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#6
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,149
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Lots of work, so that it looks
like nobody did anything. 
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Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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09-24-2009, 04:18 PM
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#7
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BLDG Inspector, G.C
Trade:
BLDG Inspector, G.C
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: N,Calif. Between Sacramento & San Francisco.
Posts: 156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaitINC
We do the same as above. Install whatever it is that will be exposed, then install 1/2" CDX staggered seam over that. We still use 1" roofing nails to ensure no penetrations are made through on the interior side. It has to be a joint effort on both parties, the carpenter/framer and the roofers. If you are worried about them using nails that are too long, buy a box of one inch roofers for them, and make sure you are there waiting for them when they do it to advise them on this.
Spencer
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Yes definitly. If you want the job done right have you or someone you trust there to make sure.
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09-24-2009, 08:46 PM
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#8
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Member
Trade:
Spec GC
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lake Placid, NY
Posts: 98
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Train station, Middlebury, VT Interesting tails from about 1885.
How about doing the scab-on tails dropped so as to then use 1-1/2" v-groove t&g, the drop set so the t&g planes with the sheathing, above. No double sheathing at overhang, no problem with nails, lotsa nice beef for pinning on that little teensie fascia you're going to do with deco tails like these.
Last edited by UpNorth; 09-24-2009 at 08:57 PM.
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09-25-2009, 10:44 AM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 147
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I just use 1/2" LP siding board laid upside down. Just remind the roofer how much fun it is to clip nails and caulk each hole.
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09-25-2009, 11:33 AM
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#10
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Official CT Greeter!
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Canton IL
Posts: 590
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never had the request
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09-25-2009, 12:21 PM
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#11
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Member
Trade:
siding/windows
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mass
Posts: 30
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This porch was just built last week, I didnt do it, I was just doing the siding here but the guy building the porch seemed to know his stuff....he used 3/4 t+g with I believe 1/2" ply....no nails poking through
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09-25-2009, 12:35 PM
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#12
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Motorboatin' son of a ...
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 700
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I always just installed T&G and never had the roofer use nails that were too long.
Full size photo: http://i37.tinypic.com/24ypqux.jpg
Last edited by BKFranks; 09-25-2009 at 12:42 PM.
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09-25-2009, 05:04 PM
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#13
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Member
Trade:
Framing and General Construction
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 93
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I have done a few different things. actual t&g with short roofing nails, double sheet the roof (overkill), I have even made pseudo t&g out of 3/4 ply with grooves routed into it 8" oc for a bigger look. I have also done "inserts" under the sheeting of either sanded plywood or t&g (real pain in butt) Seems like everytime I have to do this is on something with a real big overhang so then it is extra aggravating
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09-25-2009, 08:47 PM
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#14
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Pro
Trade:
Framing Contractor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UpNorth
We have only done it using false tails sistered alongside either rafters or trusses, with the tails dropped about 5/8" from plane to accommodate the either square or v-groove t&g pine planking. We go 5/8 for all roof sheathing, and that goes over, so our nail base is 1-1/4.
About like shown here in this pic sequence (not mine, we don't paint much here, all stain). http://imageevent.com/meadowview/job...sedraftertails
I was hoping to learn something new.
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Gene,
I've always done it by dropping the tail down 3/4" for 1x and then sheathing with 5/8".
__________________
Joe Carola
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09-25-2009, 09:20 PM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
carpentry / fencing / decks
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 905
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I have done one in the past where I notched the top side of the rafters for the T&G, the ply was then laid over.
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09-28-2009, 08:30 AM
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#16
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Member
Trade:
Spec GC
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lake Placid, NY
Posts: 98
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Not bad, notching. Saves wood, labor about the same and maybe even less than sistering a false tail.
The only downside, and those that frame with precision will say, so what!, and they are right, but for exposed tails, you want razor edge straightness out at the fascia line. With sistered on tails, you can set them to a string or laser line. With sliced rafters, you may need to trim a little after setting all, and if those tails have doodled-up ends, you'll need to be careful.
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