TJI roof framing - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

D.Foster · 01-31-2009, 09:55 AM

Morning Men,
Does anyone hear have any pointers for framing a roof with TJI lumber? We framed the floor system using the same and i have had my face buried in the I-Level book. The thing that gives me the wiilies are the hip and valley connections,because they are steel. I know there will be wood pack out in the steel webbing, i just can't imagine the kind of hangers for those compound angle jack rafters

.
Any wisdom would be apprecaited!

ribuilder · 01-31-2009, 10:25 AM

My pointer is....make sure you have at least a 12 pack hangin around

And a palm nailer!

D.Foster · 01-31-2009, 10:26 AM

Hahahaha

tru story RI!!

ribuilder · 01-31-2009, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D.Foster

Hahahaha

tru story RI!!

that palm naler saved our a*** on "BIG REDS" addtion. Holy metal...you should try to put a sample of the drawing on here. I want to see what this genius arch. drew for ya!

D.Foster · 01-31-2009, 10:50 AM

I'll see if the Archy will send me a PDF file i have some but they are just plan views of the wall layout an d sections

Gold Tie · 01-31-2009, 09:15 PM

I'd say pack the web of the tji as well. With a 2X running continous, attached to the bottom side of the hip/valley underneath the rafters, nail through the solid webbing like a 2X rafter. I've never used a compound skew hanger either, I bet that is pretty crazy.

D.Foster · 01-31-2009, 09:36 PM

Yea , good thinkin. Web fillers for days i bet will be needed. But the inside ceilings are cathedral and supposedly will come to a finish corner so i don't know if i can support with 2x, it would be nice though. Thanx for the response, i take it that not too many guys have done TJI roofs seeing only two guys posted. This will be my 2nd, but the first was just a gable, not bad.

ribuilder · 01-31-2009, 10:01 PM

I noticed on some of Tim Uhlers albums, a few of the houses they were doing had TGI roof members. Maybe send a PM and see if he has any ideas. He helped me out with a question I had about a baseplate for a chainsaw. Worth a shot

Mitchell Const. · 02-01-2009, 08:58 AM

If you have detailed engineered drawings from whoever designed the roof it should be easy. the last one I did was fun

Mitchell Const. · 02-01-2009, 08:59 AM

oh and you probably will want to have a positive placement nailer for all the hangar connections

Mitchell Const. · 02-01-2009, 09:03 AM

. I've never used a compound skew hanger either, I bet that is pretty crazy.[/quote]

once you get the hangers in your hand & look at them its not so intimidating
most of the tji roofs I have done dont require much compound angle cutting if any due to the design of the hangers

D.Foster · 02-01-2009, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitchell Const.

. I've never used a compound skew hanger either, I bet that is pretty crazy.

once you get the hangers in your hand & look at them its not so intimidating
most of the tji roofs I have done dont require much compound angle cutting if any due to the design of the hangers[/quote]
Yea youre right the skewed hangers on the floor system didnt require any bevel cuts, and the drawings are lacking in some detail. Thanks for the posts!

Timuhler · 02-02-2009, 12:03 AM

I've framed two roofs with I-joists and loved them both. One of them we used skewed hangers at the valleys and they were about $50/pc. I'd try and design around that if I did that again.

I drew up the roofs both in Autocad (not very well, but well enough) and then had the supplier do a real drawing with the specs. I'm going to post links to photo galleries.

What I loved is that they are much lighter thand dimensional. I've used 30' 2x12 before (a fair amount of 28' last spring) and I'd always go with I-joists if I can.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/PioneerBuildersInc/Wexford#

One detail that is goofy is the gable overhangs. What I did was lower that rafter so the lookouts could run over the top
On both roofs I ripped beveled pieces of 2x and nailed them to the topplates so I didn't have to cut a birdsmouth. It doesn't take long with a table saw and it saves a lot of time with webstiffeners.

I would use I-joists again in a heartbeat.

D.Foster · 02-02-2009, 04:12 PM

Nice lookin work my man!!! Thanks for the tips with the gable O/H too. The floors of the house we're doing are 18'' and the roof will be 16'' 360 and 560 series. Its a good learnig experience and i think alot more of the eng lumber will be used in the future. Thanks again

Timuhler · 02-02-2009, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D.Foster

Nice lookin work my man!!! Thanks for the tips with the gable O/H too. The floors of the house we're doing are 18'' and the roof will be 16'' 360 and 560 series. Its a good learnig experience and i think alot more of the eng lumber will be used in the future. Thanks again

No problem. Email me if you have any questions.

Also, take lots of pictures, even if it is with a cell phone. Construction forums need pictures

dougthecarpente · 02-16-2009, 09:35 AM

Hello; I've worked on that type of framing with large and small crews, and I've seen different carpenters doing it differently. For valley framing, I've seen guys actually shape the underside of the valley beam to pitch, and use fillers and combination cuts, doing away with the hangers provided.
OK if you use good filler material I guess and not OSB. I just don't like to cut into an engineered beam, other than to length.....

Anyway I like to use the simpson hanger designed for that, simply because that's what it's made for. Basically all you need is the proper plumb cut and the hanger wraps onto that and hangs from one side onto the valley beam. Personally, rather than wrap the hanger onto the filled TJI, I like to put a 2X8 block between the roof joist and nail the free hanging wing of the hanger, onto that. As for the underside, the boarders attach a 12' creased sheet of tin to length and that determines where the two slopes meet. I'll try to attach a couple recent photos of a home I framed with my son's business...this photo does'nt have the back framing completed yet, as I described it, but you can see the hangers before the blocking is put in...works for me anyway...oh yeah, for this type of framing with so many hangers, a Bostich Strap Shot air nailer is must!!!

**loneframer** · 02-16-2009, 10:41 PM

I've done a few TJI roof frames. If you pack out the webs,(we used 1" treated plywood) you can make your connections with standard fasteners. We used 4.5" lag screws with a fender washer on the compound cuts. We also made gussets at the ridge to tie the two sides together with a dropped beam. Used lots of construction adhesive and 7/16 crown staples to attach treated plywood. At the wall we ripped an angled bearing plate to match the roof slope and attached rafters with 6" timber screws into double plate. Also used treated plywood at fascia line to attach sub fascia. Very labor intensive.