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Old 03-05-2009, 08:40 PM   #1
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Tall walls (2-storey walls)

I was wondering about tall walls in the various areas represented here. In Calgary, Canada, all tall walls must now be engineered. The accepted way to frame them was 2x6 1ft. centered and blocked every third of the height. Now it is not uncommon to use lvl studs 1ft. on center. These are connected to the plates with A35 connectors. I am currently framing my own house and was required to use 5x8 lvl posts as king posts on either side of the windows. These posts and the engineering for two tall walls came to $1100. It takes at least triple the time to frame(all the connectors) and I can not see the huge advantage over conventional tall wall framing. So.... how are tall walls handled in your area?

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Old 03-05-2009, 08:44 PM   #2
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We always ripped 1 3/4" LVLs to 5 1/2", typical wall framing practices, solid blocked every 8' of wall height. 18' or less, 2x6 hem/fir, same blocking procedure.
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Old 03-05-2009, 08:55 PM   #3
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Well, around here, sometimes, they wing it. Some use 2x6's, some will split the wall in 2. My method around here without the engineering is 2x6 16" OC. When I lived in Seattle, it was just like you said....2x6 12" OC blocked.
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Old 03-05-2009, 08:55 PM   #4
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I can remember many years ago we often built them out of 2x4's. Im sure many of them shake when the wind blows. Seems like anymore they are 2x6 12" oc, often with lvl or paralam king studs at windows/doors. We have occasionally used all lvl's when engineer requires it.
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:06 PM   #5
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We can still do 2x6 but we double layout studs. Most of the time that wall has alot of windows . Double king studs and double trimmers so you really end up with a 'built-up post.I think the code for blocks is 10' foot but i try to put them in line with the header, so with stacked windows you end up with 2 rows of blocks.
We don't have to do the hardware......yet.
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:23 PM   #6
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We don't have tall walls engineered unless they stand alone. I've only done that once and it was a long time ago.

I did use LVL studs on a tall rakewall and it was super flat (fiber cement siding looked nice and flat) and it didn't flex much when we lifted it.

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Old 03-05-2009, 09:32 PM   #7
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Do you use the coil guns for framing? It is kinda tricky raising that wall with the forklift on the side of the wall ain't it?
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:41 PM   #8
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camela anderson!! What's shakin?


how tall, of a wall does this apply to? like 10' +?

I will be building a couple of tall walls on a bi-level next week . 14' tall. +/- Maybe I'll call the inspector. before I get going on it.

What do you mean by 5x8 posts? is your wall going to be 7 1/4" wide? Sheesh, seems excessive.

out in the sticks here we've been doing 12"oc 2x6 with blocking. (like you taught me.)

Last edited by hughjazz; 03-06-2009 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:17 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
Do you use the coil guns for framing? It is kinda tricky raising that wall with the forklift on the side of the wall ain't it?
We do use coil guns for framing. I think we made the switch about 5 years ago.


The forklift to the side wasn't a problem at all. Its always scary to me to lift walls, but we are getting better at it. I prefer to lift the wall off the deck 2-6" so we can position it better.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:27 AM   #10
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Tim U., your codes must be easy! Here in Pierce County, WISHA would be all over you. Booms use cables or chains, stopped web slings years ago.(Liability issues) Are you aware THEY can fine you from your pics? Up to 7k per incident. Open stair holes-no guards on open window holes over 8' above ground-no hard hats with beam and boom above-no tag lines on load under boom, major truss co.,14k for that and operator left boom loaded and unattended-no chaps or gloves using bigfoot chainsaw-shorts, tenners, sleeveless shirts-ladders not cleated on ply deck- PULL those pics, no point in supporting them with our hard earned money!!! Sorry to hi-jack the post, I just saw your gallery and had to warn you! GBAR
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:06 PM   #11
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Tim U., your codes must be easy! Here in Pierce County, WISHA would be all over you. Booms use cables or chains, stopped web slings years ago.(Liability issues) Are you aware THEY can fine you from your pics? Up to 7k per incident. Open stair holes-no guards on open window holes over 8' above ground-no hard hats with beam and boom above-no tag lines on load under boom, major truss co.,14k for that and operator left boom loaded and unattended-no chaps or gloves using bigfoot chainsaw-shorts, tenners, sleeveless shirts-ladders not cleated on ply deck- PULL those pics, no point in supporting them with our hard earned money!!! Sorry to hi-jack the post, I just saw your gallery and had to warn you! GBAR

But, but they are here to make us safer. They are here to help, they would never bankrupt us to line their pockets
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:09 PM   #12
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Hey Hughjazz, These new codes apply to walls 12' and over. And the posts are turned the other way, so the post fits inside the 5 1/2" wall.
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:16 AM   #13
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oops! I though you wrote 8x8. was reading too fast. huge post still.

your house looks good btw. I asked on facebook, why did you apply acoustiseal during the framing Does it have something to do with the expanding foam insulation? Or are you just going for a REAL draft free house?

Last edited by hughjazz; 03-08-2009 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:15 PM   #14
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we have and are using flitch plates bolted between 2 2x6 studs for each king of the header in a 14' wide opening 16' tall. the overall wall height is just shy of 18'; 2x6 studs will be used throughout the rest of the 2 story wall.
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:05 PM   #15
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here in wpg., mb. the length of the wall has alot to do with weather it is lvl or not 12 or 14 feet usually 2x6 spf 16" o/c (unless spec out be eng. or arct.) longer and it switches to lvl. though we do use alot of lvl studs in kitchens and bathrooms for cabinets and showers. as for blocking most inspectors here want the top plate height of the main floor walls to continue through the baloon framed portion for lateral stability weather it be 8' 10' or whatever
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:27 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by dljones View Post
here in wpg., mb. as for blocking most inspectors here want the top plate height of the main floor walls to continue through the baloon framed portion for lateral stability weather it be 8' 10' or whatever

Could you explain that a bit more detailed?

I don't understand.


dou you mean the top plate of the tall wall is overlapped over into the regular wall?


thanks.
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:35 PM   #17
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I think he was saying that the line of the top plates on the regular walls need to continue around in the form of blocking through the ballon wall. If its a 10' wall you still need to block the plywood seams or continue with whatever mid-span blocking that is required for whatever size wall you are building.
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:41 PM   #18
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here is one example mainfloor wall height is 9'-1 1/8" 2nd flr joist 11 7/8, 2nd flr ply 5/8 2nd flr wall height 8'-1 1/8". the living room clg height is 18'-2 3/4" the only blocking required in these walls is at 9'-1 1/8 and lower to line up with the main floor top plate. and under no circumstances are you allowed to build that wall in two pcs. it creates a hinge in the middle on the wall and wind force on that wall will shake the heck out of that joint
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timuhler View Post
The forklift to the side wasn't a problem at all. Its always scary to me to lift walls, but we are getting better at it. I prefer to lift the wall off the deck 2-6" so we can position it better.
Wall raising with a forklift does take some practice!!! My first wall was like: boom up.... boom out.... boom up... boom out... (or boom in when lifting from the front)

Once I got the hang of, "boom up and out/in", at the same time it became effortless!!

But yeah, I guess there is still the, "Sure would suck if something broke right now", thing going on!
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:57 PM   #20
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I feel alot better when I have someone that I trust to stand to the side and guide me or at least help.
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