Strapping?

neolitic

I have seen this myself,
done dozens of retrofits.
It works in the real world.
Engineers don't always live
in that one.
And it doesnt matter how old,
deflection is deflection.

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(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

Celtic

...and I should have known that.....

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loneframer

Ha ha, not exactly. I've retrofitted wood X to eliminate the persistantly squeeky metal straps. No matter how taught you get them up front, in a year or so the stuff gets loose and you get deflection in the joist that is loaded as you walk across the floor. With wood bridging, the deflection is eliminated by proper load sharing by the neighboring joists. I've also replaced a few that were beaten out by other trades, but that is another thread.

ClemS

metal x-bridging is made in several different lengths. the one to use would depend on joist spacing and joist height.

Joe Carola

They make metal bridging for installing after the deck is down.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...tb.asp#gallery

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Joe Carola

loneframer

These are a good solution to the dilemma and with these "drive in" type, they won't go slack with shrinkage.

Joe Carola

I used something like those one time back in 1984. That was the last time I saw them.

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bradgunn

Just thought I'd jump in here: you're getting good feedback, but if your plan includes new tile, and you've already got the sub floor off, and you're up for doubling the joists, maybe you should think about lowering the level of the existing joists so your floor comes out the right height.

Without knowing your spans, I would nevertheless guess that doubled 2x6 joists would more than replace your existing, and carry any extra load.
I know this wasn't your question, but it's something to think about.

But I would definitely take out the cross bracing, replace them with solid blocking. Use glue and ringshanks, and check for shiners - the floor won"t squeak. Or sag.

Good luck, let us know what you decide, and how it turns out.

loneframer

I found a couple pics with wood X bridging for ya. I like to set the bottoms immediately after the decking goes on. As the lumber dries, the bridging gets tighter due to shrinkage of the joists. I run 2 rows on long spans and believe me, when all is said and done, there is no spring in the floor.

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cbfx3

One option to do after the fact would be to tie the joists together with a long 1x running perpendicular. this would obviously only work in a crawlspace (or if floor has a dropped ceiling under it) Shares load without squeaks associated with blocking. If I have a GC request bridging I will ONLY use 1x4 x bridging. I refuse to bridge with solids.