Stick Or Trusses?

ASIinc.

First off I am not a framer so bear with me. Im building a garage at my house as inexpensively as possible. its 24x32, I was just gonna stick build it but can I use a 32 ft lvl as a ridge beam w/o a column? or would it make more sense(cheaper) to just use trusses? thanks

genecarp

My first instinct would be to stick frame it, why not price it out both ways, its easy enough to get both material lists quoted, then figure your labor. stick framing can be handles by you and some buddies, trusses may require some rigging, but will require less man hours. do the footwork. G

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precisionbuild

For a 24x32, I'd just go with trusses. They are hard to beat for that application. And I hate trusses. Buy em, slam em up and call it a day.

wallmaxx

Truss it.

thom

I'm a big fan of trusses. In this application, installing 24' joists will require something like tji's. The total cost would probably be cheaper with trusses.

Around here, our lumber is not straight and flat. A roof that size framed with sticks would probably look pretty crappy.

Generally, but not allways, trusses cost more than the sticks but the labor is enough less with trusses to fully offset the additional cost of material.

With trusses you will be unable to use the attic space for storage. With sticks and tji's for joists you could engineer so storage would be an option.

borat_borat1950

Make it a hip, double 18 lam and 2X8 joists, 8 or 10 pitch and you have ample storage above, just brace off th lam and your good.

thom

Borat, can you even buy a 24' 2X8 in your neighborhood?

Dan_Watson

You can't span 24' with 2x8's.

JumboJack

Very good point.Truss it.

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in texas with framing and cornish people will do it for 3.00 a foot. What do yall think about that? Just laber

ASIinc.

Well Im not a pro framer. Ive done a bunch of porches and additions but small stuff and I dont do it everyday. I figured run 2 18" microlams and 2x10 rafters and be done. It sounds like trusses may be the better way to go. thanks

Gold Tie

It only makes sense to truss it. As for 24' 2x8's I think you two need to read a little closer!! He is talking about spliting the span. That would be 16' 2x8's. Still a little skimpy. Now a 3ply lvl A-frame beam bolted together in the center with 2x10or12x16's would be neat but still doesn't make much sense when you can just truss it and be done.

wallmaxx

If you split the garage with a spec'd beam then you could joist and rafter...but that beam will cost you.

I did this just a couple of weeks ago. The beam is 5.25" x 24" and the joists are 2X10s

JumboJack

He's not going to use ceiling joists?

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in texas with framing and cornish people will do it for 3.00 a foot. What do yall think about that? Just laber

Gold Tie

Wow! Do you only know how to read certain word's or something? Thank god wallmaxx posted a picture. Study that for a bit!

ASIinc.

Yea no ceiling joist, I was gonna run 2(or 3) 32' microlams and use 2x10 rafters on a 4/12 pitch. But dont the rafters support most of the weight and not the ridge beam? I wanted to do it this way so we could set the beam up and after work and on weekends I could finish running rafters by myself and not have to pay anyone

Gold Tie

On a 4 pitch the ridge beam supports all the weight!!

Jayrek

Truss it.

Do you have drawings for this drawn up?

Do you plan on pulling a permit? If you are not thats your business.

If you are pulling a permit they will want drawings to make sure that your structure can handle a snow load , you are in MD right? If you are buying trusses the mfg will provide you with all the paperwork needed to get by the building dept.

Most truss companies have stock 5/12, 7/12, and 9/12 32' long trusses.
If you want them to fit perfect, build the box and have the truss mfg come out and take measurements. This will delay the project by about 1-2 weeks. If not most truss mfg have a 10-14 working day lead time.

Also, the gable ends will cost about 2-3 times the cost of other trusses.

Butt the first one on the end so that the cdx or osb lines up, go 16" oc to the next one, and every 24" oc after that til you get to the other end. Make sure that you apply your bracing ( a positive placement nailer would help you here ) or strongback with 2 X4's. Thats it, to quote someone else, Just Slam It Out!!
Good Luck.

Dan_Watson

WallMax always has the good jobs

Gold Tie

I know, I hate that bastard!!! j/k. I'd work with him anyday!! Beautiful country out there!!

Tinstaafl

Nuh-uh. As long as the rafters are perfectly opposed, you could use a piece of paper for a ridge beam.