we always toe nail like the pic above. biggest wall to date was 60' with no problems with sliding. (knock on wood) the lumber strap idea sound good too! I also run the sheathing past the bottom plate.
2 VERY important things to remember when sheathing on the deck.
It's crutial that the bottom plate is laser straight.
It's equally important that the wall is squared perfectly before you nail/staple the sheathing on.
Even 1/4" out of square will screw you up. you will never get the wall plumb at the end.
On the walls that are (4') or less I will nail the sheet to the top plate and stand it like that. (sheet vertically) once it's plumb I nail the rest of the sheet to the studs. As it can be hard to square up a short wall. Not sure if that last part made sense
I like your thinking!
Sometimes on the short walls we will sheath them later too. Or at least stick the level on the deck to make sure its level befor squaring and sheathing the wall.
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Trade:
General, Electrical, and Plumbing Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Posts: 722
Made perfect sense.
I do basically the same thing with short walls, except I also put one nail in the bottom plate just to keep the sheathing from flapping around. Then if it is off a little, a good whack with the sledge will straighten it out.
On the walls that are (4') or less I will nail the sheet to the top plate and stand it like that. (sheet vertically) once it's plumb I nail the rest of the sheet to the studs. As it can be hard to square up a short wall. Not sure if that last part made sense
Made perfect sense. That is one reason that I started sheathing afterwards. I've had buildings with 30+ short walls on each floor that got sheathing. I found that for me it was more productive and made squaring and plumbing the building much easier.
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
If it is one sheet or less use the sheet to square the wall!
Nail it on the flat and then stand. If it is slightly out of level when you put the rest of the walls up, the BFH comes into play
I snap all plate lines from the getgo. If its a small wall when i sheath i snap a random line on the deck, toe nail the bottom plate to the line, pull diagonals start sheathing at the top and work my way down working the sheet the whole time so its flush with the bottom plate, i then pull the toe nails out and move the wall, into place and set/brace it. On bigger walls i toe nail the bottom plate in place and do the same process, we also tyvek on the ground whenever possible. it seems to help from using pumpjacks and scaffold
We offer a full line of services. Most of the builders I work for will at least opt for dry-in with #30 felt. In some cases we will do the full siding package and in others we will do an Azek trim package while the siding is farmed out. Here are a few pics of homes we did the full package on.
We stage every job with Alum-A-Poles for sheathing. They make papering and window installations a breaze too. Now I just need construction to pick up so I can get the poles stood up again.
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
Like this, though these are a little high, not enough meat in the plate. I take them out before I nail the bottom plate. More than once or twice have these little guys kept the bottom plate floating.
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and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined,
one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
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Another question do you guys run your sheathing horizontal or vertical?
I always run my sheathing horizontal. It allows me the opportunity to straighten bowed studs and window cutouts are easier because I can run a router around the openings as I work up the wall without laying out or drilling pilot holes from inside.
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
I always run my sheathing horizontal. It allows me the opportunity to straighten bowed studs and window cutouts are easier because I can run a router around the openings as I work up the wall without laying out or drilling pilot holes from inside.
How effective would a router be on 3/4 vantec?.I've often wanted to try it on stair openings cause I normally let it hang over and cut flush with a circular saw.
How effective would a router be on 3/4 vantec?.I've often wanted to try it on stair openings cause I normally let it hang over and cut flush with a circular saw.
Advantech is pretty tough, but it'll work. I use a 1/2" shank with either 3/8" or 1/2" double fluted straight cut with a guide bearing. They handle the heat better than smaller diameter bits.
The router method works great with 1/2" CDX and 7/16" OSB. Much faster than laying out the cutout.
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
I always run my sheathing horizontal. It allows me the opportunity to straighten bowed studs and window cutouts are easier because I can run a router around the openings as I work up the wall without laying out or drilling pilot holes from inside.
I'l have to try that, I do very very little sheating but in the past I've tried saw-zall, chainsaw, rotozip, never occured to use a router.
I use a 1 1/2 horse Porter Cable, a D-handle makes the job much easier.
The lines run such that its intended to run horizontal for a reason right?
OSB is marked with a strength axis which is intended to run perpendicular to the studs. 3-ply CDX will buckle between the studs if applied vertically too. 4+5 ply gives better results, but I still prefer horizontal. Some guys on CT have mentioned that they are required to block the seams if they don't have backing, so upright orientation eliminates the blocking. Question to guys who sheath upright. Do they manufacture sheets with the strength axis running in the opposite direction?
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
OSB is marked with a strength axis which is intended to run perpendicular to the studs. 3-ply CDX will buckle between the studs if applied vertically too. 4+5 ply gives better results, but I still prefer horizontal. Some guys on CT have mentioned that they are required to block the seams if they don't have backing, so upright orientation eliminates the blocking. Question to guys who sheath upright. Do they manufacture sheets with the strength axis running in the opposite direction?
Been veritical with OSB and plywood for 30yrs. Still haven't had a house collapse. I suspect around here there would be a tremendous amount of houses collasping if it didn't hold.
OSB comes with lines in both directions mostly, at lease the ones we get.
OSB is marked with a strength axis which is intended to run perpendicular to the studs. 3-ply CDX will buckle between the studs if applied vertically too. 4+5 ply gives better results, but I still prefer horizontal. Some guys on CT have mentioned that they are required to block the seams if they don't have backing, so upright orientation eliminates the blocking. Question to guys who sheath upright. Do they manufacture sheets with the strength axis running in the opposite direction?
Yes they do. I had it on one house. 4x9 sheets. Really weird stuff. Bowed like crazy.
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If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams,
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one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
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The Following User Says Thank You to framerman For This Useful Post:
Been veritical with OSB and plywood for 30yrs. Still haven't had a house collapse. I suspect around here there would be a tremendous amount of houses collasping if it didn't hold.
OSB comes with lines in both directions mostly, at lease the ones we get.
I wouldn't expect one to collapse. I have built houses with a stand-up in the four corners and foamboard in between with no issues of collapse. I also framed for several years doing all plywood stand-ups and found that the sheets were prone to cupping between the studs, which caused problems with the vinyl siding in most cases. I never stood up OSB, but if spaced properly, I haven't seen any problems running sheets horizontally.
I know one thing, I've never seen sub-floor run any other way than perpendicular to the joists.
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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"
Trade:
Home Improvements Bathroom kitchen remodeling fini
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Macomb County, MI
Posts: 32
We used to run T-111, windows and trim also, before standing walls in Lake Arrowhead, CA. Tricky to get the lines between floors aligned but found it quicker and easier than staging to sheath after( especially 3 stories up). Toe nailed smaller walls but used straping on big ones. Let the bottom hang over to tie to floor system.
I also run the sheathing past the bottom plate.
I found that for me it was more productive and made squaring and plumbing the building much easier.
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