Sheathing Walls On Ground.......

Originally Posted by hughjazz

we always toe nail like the pic above. biggest wall to date was 60' with no problems with sliding. (knock on wood) the lumber strap idea sound good too! I also run the sheathing past the bottom plate.


2 VERY important things to remember when sheathing on the deck.

It's crutial that the bottom plate is laser straight.
It's equally important that the wall is squared perfectly before you nail/staple the sheathing on.

Even 1/4" out of square will screw you up. you will never get the wall plumb at the end.

On the walls that are (4') or less I will nail the sheet to the top plate and stand it like that. (sheet vertically) once it's plumb I nail the rest of the sheet to the studs. As it can be hard to square up a short wall. Not sure if that last part made sense

Originally Posted by hughjazz

On the walls that are (4') or less I will nail the sheet to the top plate and stand it like that. (sheet vertically) once it's plumb I nail the rest of the sheet to the studs. As it can be hard to square up a short wall. Not sure if that last part made sense

Originally Posted by hughjazz

loneframer, does your crew put on the siding?

Originally Posted by scottalan

I would appreciate the drawing this sounds good

Originally Posted by scottalan

Another question do you guys run your sheathing horizontal or vertical?

Originally Posted by loneframer

I always run my sheathing horizontal. It allows me the opportunity to straighten bowed studs and window cutouts are easier because I can run a router around the openings as I work up the wall without laying out or drilling pilot holes from inside.

Originally Posted by scottalan

How effective would a router be on 3/4 vantec?.I've often wanted to try it on stair openings cause I normally let it hang over and cut flush with a circular saw.

Originally Posted by loneframer

I always run my sheathing horizontal. It allows me the opportunity to straighten bowed studs and window cutouts are easier because I can run a router around the openings as I work up the wall without laying out or drilling pilot holes from inside.

Originally Posted by Inner10

I'l have to try that, I do very very little sheating but in the past I've tried saw-zall, chainsaw, rotozip, never occured to use a router.

I use a 1 1/2 horse Porter Cable, a D-handle makes the job much easier.

The lines run such that its intended to run horizontal for a reason right?

Originally Posted by loneframer

OSB is marked with a strength axis which is intended to run perpendicular to the studs. 3-ply CDX will buckle between the studs if applied vertically too. 4+5 ply gives better results, but I still prefer horizontal. Some guys on CT have mentioned that they are required to block the seams if they don't have backing, so upright orientation eliminates the blocking.
Question to guys who sheath upright. Do they manufacture sheets with the strength axis running in the opposite direction?

Originally Posted by loneframer

OSB is marked with a strength axis which is intended to run perpendicular to the studs. 3-ply CDX will buckle between the studs if applied vertically too. 4+5 ply gives better results, but I still prefer horizontal. Some guys on CT have mentioned that they are required to block the seams if they don't have backing, so upright orientation eliminates the blocking.
Question to guys who sheath upright. Do they manufacture sheets with the strength axis running in the opposite direction?

Originally Posted by Framer53

Been veritical with OSB and plywood for 30yrs. Still haven't had a house collapse. I suspect around here there would be a tremendous amount of houses collasping if it didn't hold.
OSB comes with lines in both directions mostly, at lease the ones we get.