Sheathing/ Opinions Wanted

rbsremodeling

HOLD THE HELL UP

How dare you try to get a thread back on topic, with your two post having ass

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eisert

I hope I didn't come across as sounding snotty, that wasn't my intention.

precisionbuild

LMAO!

RBS was making a funny!

rbsremodeling

Don't you just love Noobs

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hughjazz

Around here (western Canada) It's common to see wall sheeting flush with the rim joist. (meaning not overlapped)

And some crews will make "B.C." corners. (sheeting not overlapped)

I believe it is done to speed up the wall building process, by not having to climb a ladder and staple down the overlapping 6".

Both of those methods are Bs. if you ask me. Totally inferior.


One time we had built the walls for a 9' cantilever, had the 9' portion stapled to the rimmer, and the 2 side walls just nailed to the floor.
The owner came by and wanted us to put in 2 tiny windows on the side walls, so we pulled the little guys down to modify them. And I'll be damned if the big 9'X9' back wall didn't stand there unbraced in the wind, because of the sheeting being stapled to the rin joist.

I have always overlapped the wall sheeting on to the rimmer since then.

BuriedHammer

It's a helluva alot easier, that's why. Frame and sheet the wall on the floor with everything breaking on the same line all the way around the whole house, and your walls are up a lot faster. No calculating stud breaks to accomodate that 3-1/2" or 5-1/2" overhang, no hanging out a windoor climbing up a ladder to face nail the corner, etc etc.

I don't do this, I overlap the corners with sheathing, as I feel it's necessary for strength. However, I don't sheet down to the sill. This would be a much stronger structure and I've considered it but the extra labor and material seems only necessary in hurricane areas, IMO.

Just my 2c

BuriedHammer

Actually it's pretty easy. Just let the sheet hang long the same as whatever you're framing with, lift the wall and slide 'er over into place.

BuriedHammer

... but back to the OP ...

If I were SUBCONTRACTED to HELP a CREW, I would feel VERY far removed from the decision-making process.

Should you care? Yes. Is it a big deal? Sortof. But for you, not on this job. What to do? Your job, and collect your pay. IMO.

jhark123

Or just leave one sheet off if it is a big wall. When I see stuff like this I think "why would you build an inferior product in an earthquake prone area to save 15min?" To me that sheeting must extend to the mud sill and overlap the corners.

atnas

To the OP, I would just ask the crew if this is how they normally do the corners.

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If you don't have time to do it right the first time..., when will you have time to do it again?
Klaus Finish Carpentry

loneframer

Unfortunately, this is done for several reasons. It is correct to say that this is a stand the wall shaethed deal so it saves time and the ladder stays on the truck. (If they own a ladder) Also, the builder saves money because he doesn't buy plywood to sheath a rimboard. Add this up over a builders lifetime and it could mean an early retirement. As far as structure, I've seen houses with nothing more than a standup shear panel on the corners with half inch foil faced foam on the remainder.

dljones

i think i might be a little late on the draw on this topic but here it goes,
i am a framer, have been for 20yrs give or take one or two, a quick walk through these forums taught me one thing and that is that everyone has their own way of doing things ive been pretty fortunate in that ive been able to do things my way alot. once in a while the person paying the bills wants something done i dont agree with but as long as i can satisfy the codes ill do it. i look at framing compared to other trades and we are unique, we are one of the only trades that have to take all others into consideration, roofers,soffit/fachia, mech. ele. plumb. insulators, drywallers finishers etc.everything we do we make allowences for other trades. making sure ducting will fit, plug boxes will have clearences plumbing wont hit joists or trusses,drywall has backing and so on and because of that ive always thought of house framing components (floors, walls, roof, shtg.) as a system with no one thing more importent as the next.everything is importent beceuse it is part of a system of building. will a house fall down because the bottom row of shtg doesnt encompas the floor joists and the sill plate? no. does tieing your walls to your floor with sheathing as well nailing down your bottom wall plate make a better system ? i think it does.i personally sheet my walls laying on the floor always have always will the extra time it takes to sheet the corners and staple/nail the bottom foot of plywood i will eat that cost every house and for only one reason, i look at my work as if i were a homeowner and i work in an office or in retail and know nothing about framing and i know i would ask why the bottom and the corners look diffrent than the rest and knowing this is the biggest purchase of their lives am i going to tell them the people theyve trusted want to save $200? im not tellin em
please disregard spelling and puncuatin
no offence to any one, if you work for a living you deserve respect
dane jones

Home Work Pro

When I was a PM for a builder in Cleveland, all my framers built it like Framerman's pic's show. My Amish framers went one step further and stapled all the tyvec on and at the end would run a ladder on the four corners and the rims. I never had an inspecter question it, although if you met them with a cup of joe, they would usually sign off without getting their shoes muddy.

galla35

everyone around here hangs over if sheating on the ground to tie in the cornors. however we put the sheathing flush with the bottom plate and what ever is left over on 8' walls gets nailed to double top

Warren

Note to you guys in Ohio. According to the Ohio revised code all sheathing must hang over the floor deck. If not they will make you go back and install metal gussets every 4 feet from the bottom wall plate, thru the band board and over the mud sill. I have to admit we used to do it the easy way, but not in a long time. It can make it a little tougher on the longer walls because you cant just nail a block to the outside band to prevent the bottom plate from kicking when you stand the wall. piece of metal lumber strap attatched to the bottom plate and into the deck usually does the trick.

Brandito

this is the only way it's done in my area, at least that i've seen or done myself.

never seen a house go up without the sheathing on before the walls were raised.

generally the box is sheathed with either rips of plywood or 1/2 foam, just depends what the job calls for. the walls are framed, squared on the ground, and sheathed laying down. sometimes it's plywood the whole way, sometimes they only require plywood/osb on the corners and every 3rd or 4th sheet. so 1 ply, 2-3 foam/celotex and another ply. for me it's always been what the builder wanted. they obviously use the foam and celotex to save some money and possibly for a little extra insulation.

and yeah leaving a flap for the corners is hit and miss, some layout guys lay the plates out that way, others don't. when you're sheathing walls before lifting them though it's a hell of a lot easier to leave the flap off, to be honest it's rare that anyone ever goes back to nail it up anyways. not saying it's right, but that's how it usually goes.

even when doing wall panels i've seen it go both ways, some panel shops do flaps, some don't, some you're glad they did when the wall ends up a little long, then you cut off the flap and hope the 1/2" was all you needed. usually you're just glad the panels are already papered.

K2

It's "sheathing". At least in the Irc it is.

Morning Wood

I always tie in corners and rim joist, sill, sole, seal plate whatever. I also always try to lay out the sheathing so it spans the second floor rim joists and doesn't butt right at the top of the first floor wall. See framers do that all the time around here. I don't get it.

TempestV

I don't see what would be difficult about running your ply up the rim- if the ply is running vertically, get plywood a foot longer than your walls are tall. If the ply is running horizontally, snap the line for the top of the sheet at 3'. When you stand the wall, the ply hanging over the edge just drops down over the rim. It's always been easy when I've done it. especially for 1st floor walls, it isn't like it's hard to nail off the bottom- don't even need a ladder.

Brandito

you're still using "sheets" of plywood to "sheath" the walls, forgive me if i tend to just combine the two in my head. i fixed it for ya though

i guess it's up to the builder really, and i guess the ones around here don't seem to put much stock into it? it's just rare to see in my neck of the woods.