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01-15-2009, 07:37 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
Building
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
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sheathing/ opinions wanted
I've been out of full time framing for about 6 years.
I recently was sub-contracted to help a crew. I completed troubled by the work I witnessed. The sheathing did not tie corners together or extend down to the mud sills. Among other smaller details.
Should I not care? Is it not that big a deal? What to do?
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01-15-2009, 07:41 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Renovations
Join Date: May 2005
Location: West Coast Canada
Posts: 1,672
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How do you sheathe a stick frame without tying the corners? I don't get it.
__________________
"Too much is always better than not enough"--J.R. "Bob" Dobbs
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01-15-2009, 07:43 PM
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#3
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Pro
Trade:
Framing Contractor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agboett
I've been out of full time framing for about 6 years.
I recently was sub-contracted to help a crew. I completed troubled by the work I witnessed. The sheathing did not tie corners together or extend down to the mud sills. Among other smaller details.
Should I not care? Is it not that big a deal? What to do?
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What do you mean that the sheathing did not tie the corners together? I run sheathing horizontally and start it with the sills and both corners are tied in and nailed. Some guys start the sheathing on the shoe and fill in the box and sill with rips. Extending the sheathing down to the sill isn't a code issue.
__________________
Joe Carola
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01-15-2009, 08:11 PM
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#4
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Member
Trade:
Framer from head to toe!!!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas city M.O.
Posts: 37
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Well it’s best to put as big of a piece as you can on the corners. As far as it going down to the mud seals I am confused. To me a mud seal is the pink stuff you put under your wall.
I have Frankensteined plywood like you wouldn’t believe on remodels and walls with tons of windows. In the end it passed inspection and was solid.
Besides the Tyvek will hold it together...
Last edited by Nailerconstruct; 01-15-2009 at 08:13 PM.
Reason: had to ed where ed is need...ed
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01-15-2009, 08:17 PM
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#5
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,149
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I was thinking it's funny
that Joe calls it a shoe plate,
I learned sole plate.
But here we've got a guy
who sees "sill" and reads "seal"
and doesn't know where the
mud sill is anyway. 
I feel the OP's pain.
__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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01-15-2009, 08:44 PM
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#6
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The Duke
Trade:
Framing, Custom Carpentry, Architectural Design
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reveivl
How do you sheathe a stick frame without tying the corners? I don't get it.
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We did this for a few homes. It's laziness. You snap the chalkline in 6" instead of 5½". You run one plate by 1/2". The ply is flush with the end stud and the rim joist.
__________________
If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams,
and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined,
one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
~Henry David Thoreau
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01-15-2009, 09:09 PM
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#7
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The Duke
Trade:
Framing, Custom Carpentry, Architectural Design
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,782
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Here....like this
__________________
If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams,
and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined,
one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
~Henry David Thoreau
Last edited by framerman; 01-15-2009 at 09:13 PM.
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01-15-2009, 09:23 PM
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#8
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BIG D
Trade:
Carpenter/Builder/Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 150
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looks like a bit of laziness or just a plain ol' screw up!  I'm in the northeast and I dont think you could get away with not tying in the corners.......Anyway, keep on truckin
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01-15-2009, 10:25 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Trade:
Building
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
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laziness seems to be the case, nothing irks me more
thanks for the input
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01-15-2009, 10:26 PM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
Framing Contractor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framerman
We did this for a few homes. It's laziness. You snap the chalkline in 6" instead of 5½". You run one plate by 1/2". The ply is flush with the end stud and the rim joist.
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Why would you do something like that? It makes no sense at all. Just curious.
__________________
Joe Carola
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01-15-2009, 10:51 PM
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#11
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Al Smith
Trade:
Home Improvement contractor since 1983, In building field since 1974, Licensed
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South River NJ
Posts: 2,145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Carola
Why would you do something like that? It makes no sense at all. Just curious.
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Must be a raise your walls up after their sheathed kinda thing, looks like they are avoiding having the sheathing obstruct the raising of the wall in the top of that illustration.
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01-16-2009, 12:33 AM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 147
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wouldn't pass here in WA
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01-16-2009, 08:37 AM
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#13
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Member
Trade:
SE Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: US
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framerman
Here....like this
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WoW how can that pass? But I am not suprised we are surrounded by the south of the border gang, (farmers with hammers) and they just buther up the plywood. Asmall strip between the floors the sheet stops at every opening, door or window. a small piece above and a small piece below then another peice to continue to the next opening. and the nails, my god they studs must feel like they are being rapped by a thousand woodpeckers.
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01-16-2009, 09:18 AM
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#14
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Pro
Trade:
Framing Contractor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framerman
We did this for a few homes. It's laziness. You snap the chalkline in 6" instead of 5½". You run one plate by 1/2". The ply is flush with the end stud and the rim joist.
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If the sheathing at the top of your drawing is flush with the rim joist and the 2x6 that sticks past , that means your sheathing doesn't cover the rim joist? Is that what your saying? Or does that 2x6 that sticks past the rim joist 1/2" and you fill in a 5-1/2" by whatever your joist and sills equal?
__________________
Joe Carola
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01-16-2009, 09:44 AM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
remodeling
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,106
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Loosing alot strength at the most critical spot. All braced wall lines start at the corner. I dont think that nail pattern makes up difference as an alternate method. Its allowed......not to me anyway.
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01-16-2009, 06:05 PM
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#16
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The Duke
Trade:
Framing, Custom Carpentry, Architectural Design
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,782
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hehe, yeah I knew I'd get some fire about that. It wasn't my contract, so I had no say in how we did it.
And jhark123, WA state was EXACTLY where we did this. Bothell, WA. Many framers did this.
I never said I approved of the method, just that I know we did this on a few houses.
Joe, yes, it was flush with the rim joist also so you didn't have to ply the rim either. One reason was basically to avoid having to stitch up the corners after the walls were up. You'd drive by and see the rim joist and the end of the stud on the corners of the walls.
__________________
If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams,
and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined,
one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
~Henry David Thoreau
Last edited by framerman; 01-16-2009 at 06:10 PM.
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01-16-2009, 11:09 PM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
GC. Apprentice electrician
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framerman
hehe, yeah I knew I'd get some fire about that. It wasn't my contract, so I had no say in how we did it.
And jhark123, WA state was EXACTLY where we did this. Bothell, WA. Many framers did this.
I never said I approved of the method, just that I know we did this on a few houses.
Joe, yes, it was flush with the rim joist also so you didn't have to ply the rim either. One reason was basically to avoid having to stitch up the corners after the walls were up. You'd drive by and see the rim joist and the end of the stud on the corners of the walls.
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I've seen this done too. The houses will probably last a thousand years just like the ones that are fully sheathed.... Also the gable truss can be set out even with the lower wall sheathing and just slap some siding on it and it is done.... I've seen houses with no sheathing at all and they are still around... Some of that foil back foam sheathing from the 80's was like no sheathing at all. Great for your sun tan but you could poke your finger through it with no effort.
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01-16-2009, 11:33 PM
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#18
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Pro
Trade:
Framer
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Port Orchard, WA
Posts: 313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Carola
Why would you do something like that? It makes no sense at all. Just curious.
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Joe,
I've never seen that before, but I wonder if that is done so you sheathe the wall to that corner and never have to get on a ladder to add the last peice at the corner. You know what I mean?
As far as code or shear, I don't think it would affect anything. Here prescriptively, we have to have a 4' shear panel within 8' of the corner, or 2'8" with special nail pattern. So that end could be a window.
If I did it that way, I'd hurry and over it up with Tyvek 
By the way, I'm sorry to hear about your fingers. How has it been so far?
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01-16-2009, 11:40 PM
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#19
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Pro
Trade:
Renovations
Join Date: May 2005
Location: West Coast Canada
Posts: 1,672
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Thanks Framerman, now I get it. Never framed like that though it is obviously to ease sheeting all the walls then lifting them up. Now I think about it I have seen the rim joists exposed on some places while driving around, but never the corner stud.
__________________
"Too much is always better than not enough"--J.R. "Bob" Dobbs
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01-30-2009, 09:42 PM
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#20
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Member
Trade:
General Remodeling Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 40
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I think the thread drifted away from the original question of what to do. Does the foreman of the crew own the company that you are subcontracting through or is he an hourly employee? As a business owner myself, I know that I would want to know if one of my crews was performing substandard building practices. Sounds like you are kind of in a tough spot. "Snitch" on your crew and risk being ostricized by the crew you are working on, or stick to a higher standard of quality that a true craftsman embraces.
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